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HAW Install Tools and Supplies


 
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Jared @ LIGHTSnSIREN
Turbo Poster


Joined: 15 Mar 2007
Posts: 2178
Location: Pittsburgh, PA

PostPosted: Mon 21-Apr-2008 22:44    Post subject: HAW Install Tools and Supplies Reply with quote

Lets get a list going and then maybe someone can type it up nice and neat.

If there is stuff already out there, feel free to post it, that way we have something to start from.


Last edited by Jared @ LIGHTSnSIREN on Thu 31-Jul-2008 01:02; edited 1 time in total
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Jared @ LIGHTSnSIREN
Turbo Poster


Joined: 15 Mar 2007
Posts: 2178
Location: Pittsburgh, PA

PostPosted: Mon 21-Apr-2008 22:45    Post subject: Reply with quote

What I wrote in another thread\"

For an install you will need some basic tools to remove the head light housings. A drill with standard bits and a hole saw to make the hole in the light housing and the firewall. Some wiring, loom, wirenuts, splices, electrical tape, RTV silicon, multimeter, crimps, oh, and don't forget the strippers.

-Jared
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Grumpy
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Regular


Joined: 10 Mar 2008
Posts: 703
Location: Jacksonville Fl

PostPosted: Tue 22-Apr-2008 14:37    Post subject: Reply with quote

A trash can for wirenuts... Maybe add soldering gun and heat shrink
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ka8ypy
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Regular


Joined: 13 Mar 2006
Posts: 494
Location: College Park, MD

PostPosted: Fri 25-Apr-2008 15:39    Post subject: Reply with quote

You have crimpers on the list for splice connections, how about crimpers for the AMP pins on the end of the cables as well. Grommets for the holes drilled in the firewall.

Dan
Slick Top Solutions
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Grumpy
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Joined: 10 Mar 2008
Posts: 703
Location: Jacksonville Fl

PostPosted: Wed 30-Jul-2008 15:34    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wire ties to secure the wires after you loom it up nice and neat
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Tunes
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Regular


Joined: 27 Aug 2007
Posts: 71
Location: Joburg, South Africa

PostPosted: Fri 1-Aug-2008 10:43    Post subject: Reply with quote

Extra space in the trash can for scotch-locks... Air compressor and blow gun with a flexi extension to get the swarf out, dremel, hot glue gun and a protected work top so as not to scratch the lens.
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countryguy23
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Regular


Joined: 19 Sep 2005
Posts: 218
Location: eden valley, MN

PostPosted: Wed 13-Aug-2008 19:00    Post subject: Reply with quote

1\" hole saw for the tubes. and depends on the car/truck you plan to put it in that may work for the fire wall hole, hole groments, amp connectors and pins. this way if the tube goes out you can just unplug it and replace it with another, rather then cut and resplice, and strobe cabel with a ground/shield for RF and safety. think the number one thing i ever want to see on strobe wires is wire nuts!!! if worst comes to worst crimp connectors are acceptable but only if thats all you have to work with. amp connectors and pins are the best. then like i said its easy to replace the tube. also if you use amp connectors silicone both ends and add dielectric grease in between the male and female amp connectors to keep water out and the pins from rusting/crodeing. but other than that loom, and zip ties.

good luck
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smokeybehr
New member
New member


Joined: 19 Jun 2007
Posts: 6
Location: Fresno, CA

PostPosted: Fri 3-Oct-2008 20:11    Post subject: Reply with quote

\"Wire Nuts\" should NEVER (and I can't stress this enough) be used in an automotive application. Crimp-on connectors are the best when installed properly by using the correct size connector for the wire and the proper method and tool for crimping. Soldered-on crimp-on connectors are second best, because the solder makes a point at which the wire can bend and fail.

A ratcheting crimper with replaceable jaws it the best, because you'll get the optimum crimp each time, and you can use it to crimp all sorts of RF connectors with the appropriate jaws.

For the Molex connectors, make sure you have a pin inserter/extractor tool for both the male and female pins.

Heat shrink tubing with hot melt adhesive inside is the best thing for weatherproofing outside of the firewall.

Split loom or braided loom is a must to keep everything neat and clean. The ends of the braided loom are cut with a hot knife and cleaned up with a 1\" long piece of heat shrink to keep everything looking pretty.
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Solvarex
Member
Member


Joined: 25 Mar 2007
Posts: 43
Location: Winnipeg MB Canada

PostPosted: Sat 27-Dec-2008 22:49    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have been told that hole saws are less than ideal for cutting into plastic because they have a tendency to flake off the reflectorized surface with the coarse teeth. I've reaad that a far better tool to use is a Unibit, AKA a step drill. Does anyone have any experience with these for making HAW holes? I use these for making holes in steel and sheet metal and they produce a nicely chamfered edge with fairly small swarf. Once the pilot hole has been started they slice through most things like hot butter.

I picked up a step bit locally that goes from 1/4" to 1 3/8" for $15.99.
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