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Thread: Wiring up LEDS, need some help....

  1. #1
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    3alarmRed is offline
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    Wiring up LEDS, need some help....

    I am a newer volunteer on a local Fire/EMS department. I picked up a dash light (8 LEDs, 4 per side) and a pair of grill lights (4 per side). The dash light came with a cig. lighter adapter with on/off switch and a momentary light to change flash pattern. The grill lights need to be wired in as well. I would like to hardwire the complete setup without the cig. adapter. What do I need to complete the install? Can I use 1 on/off switch and the momentary switch to control everything?


    * I understand low voltage wiring as far as battery power, ground, running wires and such.


    Thanks a bunch.
    Last edited by 3alarmRed; August 1st, 2012 at 10:20 AM.

  2. #2
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    Yes

  3. #3
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    Well my original thought didn't work. I dismantled the the switch box that came with the dash unit, that was attached to the cig adapter. Wired all four lights to the on/off and momentary and there doesn't appear to be enough current. The dash unit lights up but only flashes 3 or times then stays lit and the grill lights won't light at all. I'm guessing the mini rocker on/off can't handle the load, any thoughts?

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by 3alarmRed View Post
    Well my original thought didn't work. I dismantled the the switch box that came with the dash unit, that was attached to the cig adapter. Wired all four lights to the on/off and momentary and there doesn't appear to be enough current. The dash unit lights up but only flashes 3 or times then stays lit and the grill lights won't light at all. I'm guessing the mini rocker on/off can't handle the load, any thoughts?
    Galls.com sells a switch panel with 2 rockers and a neg push for flash pattern change. Simple and perfect for you.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by fier23 View Post
    Galls.com sells a switch panel with 2 rockers and a neg push for flash pattern change. Simple and perfect for you.


    Thanks fier23 for the suggestion, but I would prefer to utilize switch locations that I already have in a overhead console.



    It looks like the mini rocker is only rated for 8 amps, and I believe I need around 15 amps to properly energize all four lights. Any thoughts on using a relay with the mini rocker? Might be long shot but in my mind the relay acts as a heavy duty switch supplying the current and the mini rocker actuates the relay??? Any and all suggestions are welcome.

  6. #6
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    runesson is offline
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    15amps for a LED dashlight and two grill-lights? I would rather guess on 3-6 amps. If you give us the brand and model for the LEDs, we can probably give you better advice.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by runesson View Post
    15amps for a LED dashlight and two grill-lights? I would rather guess on 3-6 amps. If you give us the brand and model for the LEDs, we can probably give you better advice.

    Extreme Tactical Dynamics
    Undercover 8 - Extreme Tactical Dynamics - Grill Lights

    The Fox Trot LED Dash Light - Dash light
    Last edited by 3alarmRed; July 31st, 2012 at 03:57 PM.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by 3alarmRed View Post
    Extreme Tactical Dynamics
    Undercover 8 - Extreme Tactical Dynamics - Grill Lights

    The Fox Trot LED Dash Light - Dash light
    That right there is your problem...

  9. #9
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    runesson is offline
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    Well, I have no experience with ETDs stuff and they are not stating any current draw one their web-site, but I still haven´t seen a TIR4-module (of which you have 4) that draws more than about 1 amp continious.

    Just to clarify:

    Quote Originally Posted by 3alarmRed View Post
    ....Can I use 1 on/off switch and the momentary switch to control everything?
    Do you mean "1" as in "a" rocker-switch you have installed or do you mean "the" rockerswitch that was attached to the dashlight wire?
    Most rockerswitches will handle 10 or more amps, but I don´t know what is used in the ETD unit.

    Anyways, by your description, it sounds like you have the wires mixed up. If the switch couldn´t handle the current, the dashlight shouldn´t have lit up.

    Hopefully, someone with experience on ETD can chime in on this.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by MEVS06 View Post
    That right there is your problem...
    To clarify on behalf of MEVS06, for those who don´t have a lot of experience with warninglights: ETD isn´t known for quality.....

  11. #11
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    Also: what wires are you running to tha grill-lights? If they are too thin, the voltage at the lights may be too low.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by runesson View Post
    To clarify on behalf of MEVS06, for those who don´t have a lot of experience with warninglights: ETD isn´t known for quality.....
    Wish I had known that before I bought.... Oh well, stuck with it now.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by runesson View Post
    Well, I have no experience with ETDs stuff and they are not stating any current draw one their web-site, but I still haven´t seen a TIR4-module (of which you have 4) that draws more than about 1 amp continious.

    Just to clarify:



    Do you mean "1" as in "a" rocker-switch you have installed or do you mean "the" rockerswitch that was attached to the dashlight wire?
    Most rockerswitches will handle 10 or more amps, but I don´t know what is used in the ETD unit.

    Anyways, by your description, it sounds like you have the wires mixed up. If the switch couldn´t handle the current, the dashlight shouldn´t have lit up.

    Hopefully, someone with experience on ETD can chime in on this.

    I guess I wasn't clear enough.....

    The rocker is mounted with the dash kit, it works just fine with the dash only. When I added the grill lights with the dash lights on the same switch is when I have problems.
    Last edited by 3alarmRed; July 31st, 2012 at 06:53 PM.

  14. #14
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    Post some pictures.
    Jim - SireLite Thinking outside the box.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by runesson View Post
    Well, I have no experience with ETDs stuff and they are not stating any current draw one their web-site, but I still haven´t seen a TIR4-module (of which you have 4) that draws more than about 1 amp continious.

    Just to clarify:



    Do you mean "1" as in "a" rocker-switch you have installed or do you mean "the" rockerswitch that was attached to the dashlight wire?
    Most rockerswitches will handle 10 or more amps, but I don´t know what is used in the ETD unit.

    Anyways, by your description, it sounds like you have the wires mixed up. If the switch couldn´t handle the current, the dashlight shouldn´t have lit up.
    The rocker that came with the kit works fine when its just powering the dash kit, the issue seems to be when the grill lights are hooked up. I wired up the grill lights in parallel with the dash kit. (Black - Black, Red - Red, and the white wires are tied in with the red for the selected pattern)

    I am surely open to suggestions> I thought the way I wired it should work; but I guess not.

  16. #16
    ERM
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    Quote Originally Posted by 3alarmRed View Post
    The rocker that came with the kit works fine when its just powering the dash kit, the issue seems to be when the grill lights are hooked up. I wired up the grill lights in parallel with the dash kit. (Black - Black, Red - Red, and the white wires are tied in with the red for the selected pattern)

    I am surely open to suggestions> I thought the way I wired it should work; but I guess not.
    Just connect the red and black wires to your dash light switch. Sounds like you are connecting ALL the sync wires and when one of the lightheads triggers the sync command, it's messing with the dash light. Try disconnecting the white wires from the dash light. That SHOULD solve your problem. The white wires should only be connected to your grille lights.

    All of your lightheads should not be pulling enough to cause any power issues from your switch. The only time you're drawing maximum power is when ALL the lightheads come on at once. Sounds like you're alternating your lights, so you're pulling half the amps. Hope that helps. Let us know what happens when you disconnect the wire from the dash light.

    Tony
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  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by ERM View Post
    Just connect the red and black wires to your dash light switch. Sounds like you are connecting ALL the sync wires and when one of the lightheads triggers the sync command, it's messing with the dash light. Try disconnecting the white wires from the dash light. That SHOULD solve your problem. The white wires should only be connected to your grille lights.

    All of your lightheads should not be pulling enough to cause any power issues from your switch. The only time you're drawing maximum power is when ALL the lightheads come on at once. Sounds like you're alternating your lights, so you're pulling half the amps. Hope that helps. Let us know what happens when you disconnect the wire from the dash light.

    Tony


    Thanks for help, I will try that.

  18. #18
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    Problem solved. Not exactly sure what went wrong, but with a new rocker switch all lights worked as advertised. Thanks for all the suggestions.

  19. #19
    If you crash you will be in a world of trouble with lights that don't meet SAE standards.... add something that does like a halogen throw light to CYA... good LEDs aren't cheap and cheap LEDs aren't good. I hate seeing people throw their money away on dangerous lights.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnMarcson View Post
    If you crash you will be in a world of trouble with lights that don't meet SAE standards.... add something that does like a halogen throw light to CYA... good LEDs aren't cheap and cheap LEDs aren't good. I hate seeing people throw their money away on dangerous lights.
    This is why we frown on cheap non SAE lights such as ETD, STL, CPS. Those manufactures only care about taking your money. If they cared about the end users they would get the certifications, bit they obliviously don't give a crap.
    Last edited by MEVS06; August 1st, 2012 at 03:37 PM.

 

 

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