Thread: A couple tricks of the trade from over the years

Repost from the interim board now that it's been taken offline completely per Jman due to conflicts with the search engine. Luckily I found a snap shot of it (original thread is here)

Couple things we've used in the past on hard to install non-purpose built vehicles (Porche, Hummer, F250)...

Use an Xacto knife to score the the firewall grommet - anything blunter will usually push the grommet clean through the firewall.

Lube lube lube. We've used WD40 and PB Blaster with horrible results (smells awful). Residential/Commercial electricians use a clear odorless wire lube product for pulling through conduit - works great to free up a firewall grommet when pulling through it. EDIT: you can pick this up in the Electrical tools area of your local Lowes or Home Depot next to the wire nuts

Fishing through the gasket can be a pain when trying a coat hanger - we've used a decommissioned VHF 5/8 wave antenna (about 48" long) with the end "eye protector" pulled off so it's just a straight rod with a coil at the end.. Works great for fishing and putting through the first leg of a harness. Use electrical tape to tie the wire to the antenna and pull through.

Same antenna works well for fishing across a headliner.

The backing plate off of boat anchor radios (i.e. Micor/Mitrek/Spectra/Syntor) work quite well between a roof and headliner for protection when drilling for antennas.

When drilling for antennas or anything in the painted surfaces of a vehicle, we always drill a small pilot hole to ensure we're perfectly centered.

When drilling on paint, always mask the area to be drilled with masking tape - helps prevent scratches from shrapnel, pressure of drilling and the occasional missed pilot hole.

On any hole through the body, use automotive primer in a nail polish bottle on the inside rim of the hole to prevent rust. 9 times out of 10 the contact for the antenna is made on the backside of the roof anyways.

Cling on window tinting (used to find it cheap at Walmart) works great for rear windows to prevent damage when installing deck lights (only takes one missed turn on a ratchet wrench to scratch the permanent window tint).

Larger power cables (8 gauge+) usually gets the end cut in to a point to ease fishing through grommets.

Use a zip tie puller every time for correct tension - especially with coax cable. 50 ohms doesn't stay 50 ohms for very long if you squeeze it flat with a zip tie.

Speaking of zip ties, the acceptable color for zip tie is BLACK... Not neon or white/natural/clear.

When working in cold weather, always cover with either duck tape or gaffers tape any exposed metal buttons on your coat & pants - they WILL scratch the paint when you lean across the fenders.

Use a silicone grease on quick connects that are exposed to the weather (i.e. grille/under hood). TruckLite makes a decent grease; RadioShack usually stocks a variant. Not only does it prevent corrosion/oxidation, it makes it MUCH easier to disconnect/reconnect the fittings when you're replacing/repairing/decommissioning the vehicle.

Use blue painters masking tape (the long term stuff) in 2" width to premark to the location of all of the lights going on the vehicle, along with all access holes and antenna locations. Write a short description with a sharpie on it.

Coil wrap works well for high abrasion areas; split loom everything else.

If its not fully potted, it likely was never designed for under hood installation

Make a laminated copy of the entire installation diagram and bill of materials to place in the glove box - make a second copy and tuck it in to the bottom of the passenger seat for safe keeping.

Got busy at the office, I'll try to add some more I think of later...

great advice...as far as lube for pulling wires...the above methods work great if youdont mind spending a few bucks..however when i pull any wire i just use soapy water in a small spray bottle..just a drop of dish soap and the rest water works great..I use it for the vehicle wiring all the way up to the T200 rigid coax on the ship...just as well as anything and its great on a budget. just an extra note try and use a hole saw when installing HAWS or LAWS. If you dont have a hole saw and do have a step bit use that. It is just as clean of a cut. just make sure you dont drill to far.

double posted by mistake

Use Fender covers at all times, not just in cold weather when you have a jacket on.

Heat shrink is your friend as is split loom.

I often use rubbing alcohol to pull wire through grommets. Easy, no clean-up needed, no stains, almost no odor left over.

Hand sanitizer works good too.

One trick I like to use is sealing the pin sockets on AMP connectors for strobes with silicone. The trick is to get one that isn't water based as the current will carry through it even when it is dry. The only drawback to this is that you shoot yourself in the foot on return service work for corroded connecters later on down the road.

For smaller harness and feeder wires, I use my shop-made "Elephant" needle and "Dino" needle as I call them. They are 1/2" and 3/4" high carbon tubing that are sharpened at the end like hypodermic needles. Most of the time, they punch through firewall grommets with a twist and makes feeding wiring very easy and quick. The "needles" are also curved.

Originally Posted by PC Comms

One trick I like to use is sealing the pin sockets on AMP connectors for strobes with silicone. The trick is to get one that isn't water based as the current will carry through it even when it is dry. The only drawback to this is that you shoot yourself in the foot on return service work for corroded connecters later on down the road.

I pack the back of them with dielectric grease after the the tube and cable are connected. In locations where the connector is truely exposed (i.e. visible to the eye when crawling under the vehicle) I swap the connectors out for weatherpac connectors. The pins are the same size, add the back grommets for each wire and insert in the body. I still back fill the back of the weatherpac with dielectric grease just cause.

Originally Posted by EVModules

For smaller harness and feeder wires, I use my shop-made "Elephant" needle and "Dino" needle as I call them. They are 1/2" and 3/4" high carbon tubing that are sharpened at the end like hypodermic needles. Most of the time, they punch through firewall grommets with a twist and makes feeding wiring very easy and quick. The "needles" are also curved.

I LOVE this tip! I've been having a lot of problems getting cabling through factory grommets and was wondering if there was an easier way to do it then poking a hole and running a wire puller through it. I can't wait to get the parts and test this out on my next install! +1!

wolfman

Originally Posted by EVModules

For smaller harness and feeder wires, I use my shop-made "Elephant" needle and "Dino" needle as I call them. They are 1/2" and 3/4" high carbon tubing that are sharpened at the end like hypodermic needles. Most of the time, they punch through firewall grommets with a twist and makes feeding wiring very easy and quick. The "needles" are also curved.

Wish we had pics of this setup

Shoo Goo (also sold under various "___________ Goop" names) fits between RTV and JB Weld, suitable for most applications. It dries hard but slightly flexible and sticks better while applying.

Any electronics which do not require airflow should be sealed shut with RTV. A bead run along the case seams, around connectors and wire passthroughs, cable connectors, etc, will prevent water entry during the heaviest thunderstorm.

Equipment consoles can be protected in heavy rain by a sheet of clear polyethylene, laid loosely over the top and held in place by a couple of small noteclips attached to each side of the console. Buttons and even lever switches can be operated through the plastic.

In hot climates, run a section of (clean) vacuum-cleaner hose from a passenger-side or rear-seat air conditioning duct to the equipment console, to feed cool air to the electronics. Another hose can be used to aim cool air at the computer -- make this one long enough that officers wearing body armor can remove it to cool down face and neck when they get back into the car.

Clip a hand towel to the equipment console, where it can be instantly dropped across to block all of the indicator lights, displays, etc., to eliminate reflections (and black out the inside of the car) at night. This also can protect the equipment from sunlight and dust.