Thread: DIY switchbox less then $20

how would you make if u needed to fuze for like an older style strobe light bar

Thanks for the Idea of this switchbox! I made my own, soldered everything, then just put some white electrical tape over the connections to make sure nothing made contact with something it shouldnt make contact with.. only put 2 switches and will add more later on. the switches arent perfectly aligned, but it was the first time I've tried it for myself. DEFINITELY will do again

Looks good man, good start!

Here's a trick to getting all the switches nicely lined up and evenly spaced out on the project box.

Get some masking tape. I like the blue painter's stuff because it doesn't leave any adhesive residue when you peel it off, even if it has been on for quite a while. It is also available in different widths.

Completely cover the front (and even the sides if you like) with the tape. Then, using a square and straight edge, mark your switch holes as precisely as possible. Use the straight edge to mark lines that run straight and even across the length of the panel face.

I like to use the Ultra Fine Point Sharpies for this layout work.

The Bob Vila rule applies here: "Measure twice, cut once."

Once you have everything laid out to your satisfaction, you can begin to drill your holes. As already pointed out, stay well inside the lines, and then use a file or exacto knife to open the holes up to final size. It is always better to start undersize and bring the holes to full size gradually, checking your work with a switch as you go.

When you are nearly done, use an emery board to clean up the holes and remove any burrs.

Dry assemble all the switches and lights. Step back and see how it looks. If necessary, tweak where needed.

Now you can remove the masking tape. Leaving the tape on while you fabricate the box will protect the surface from dings and scratches.

One final note, if you don't need an actual box for your switches, ABS plastic sheets are readily available and just as easy to work. Lexan works well, too.

I've used the same "trick" on several installs over the years.

I use two switches for most of my stuff - one to run all front warning, and one for the siren power. The smallest RS project box, turned on it's side, with the RS 30A oval switches installed in the long / thin side, has worked great. The 30A lighted oval switches are pretty good quality and I have used them for stand alone in-dash installations without the project box, too.

I don't have any current pictures of old installs, but on my old 2001 and 2002 S-10s, the switchbox was 3M dual locked to the right side of the dual cupholder that was situated in the U shaped cutout in the front of the bench seat, with wiring exiting under the seats. It was very unobtrusive and easy to use.

On my current 2007 Civic, the switchbox is mounted in a recess near where the driver's left knee is, with wiring exiting out the back side into the dash.

Originally Posted by MeefZah

I've used the same "trick" on several installs over the years.

I use two switches for most of my stuff - one to run all front warning, and one for the siren power. The smallest RS project box, turned on it's side, with the RS 30A oval switches installed in the long / thin side, has worked great. The 30A lighted oval switches are pretty good quality and I have used them for stand alone in-dash installations without the project box, too.

I don't have any current pictures of old installs, but on my old 2001 and 2002 S-10s, the switchbox was 3M dual locked to the right side of the dual cupholder that was situated in the U shaped cutout in the front of the bench seat, with wiring exiting under the seats. It was very unobtrusive and easy to use.

On my current 2007 Civic, the switchbox is mounted in a recess near where the driver's left knee is, with wiring exiting out the back side into the dash.

Nice job... I actually plan on using the cubby hole where you have the Power Mirrors and Fog Light switch... I'm going to be getting an OEM fog light kit with the switch plate for that area, then i'm gonna order either another factory sty switch to run everything, or get a couple switches to separate some stuff...

Originally Posted by Jennifer Rose Towing

this is one I have recently made. The round 1/2' hole mount ones are simple but I wanted lower profile. The switches are $2 ea at walmart but require more install time. Overall I am happy with the results.

I like these but the lights inside of them burn out within a week.

Originally Posted by Steve0625

Here's a trick to getting all the switches nicely lined up and evenly spaced out on the project box.

Get some masking tape. I like the blue painter's stuff because it doesn't leave any adhesive residue when you peel it off, even if it has been on for quite a while. It is also available in different widths.

Completely cover the front (and even the sides if you like) with the tape. Then, using a square and straight edge, mark your switch holes as precisely as possible. Use the straight edge to mark lines that run straight and even across the length of the panel face.

I like to use the Ultra Fine Point Sharpies for this layout work.

The Bob Vila rule applies here: "Measure twice, cut once."

Once you have everything laid out to your satisfaction, you can begin to drill your holes. As already pointed out, stay well inside the lines, and then use a file or exacto knife to open the holes up to final size. It is always better to start undersize and bring the holes to full size gradually, checking your work with a switch as you go.

When you are nearly done, use an emery board to clean up the holes and remove any burrs.

Dry assemble all the switches and lights. Step back and see how it looks. If necessary, tweak where needed.

Now you can remove the masking tape. Leaving the tape on while you fabricate the box will protect the surface from dings and scratches.

One final note, if you don't need an actual box for your switches, ABS plastic sheets are readily available and just as easy to work. Lexan works well, too.

Good tips for layout...

I use a cordless dewalt drywall cutout tool for cutting project boxes, works great, very quick and painless

for those who want to put in fuses like the ones in the code 3's heres some on ebay eBay - New & used electronics, cars, apparel, collectibles, sporting goods & more at low prices

Edit: N/m didn't see the other thread.