Thread: Dome polishing

Originally Posted by plybeep68

Where is the best place to purchase the Novus at?

Online .. I have never seen it in stores around my place

Originally Posted by WPD8908

Online .. I have never seen it in stores around my place

Thanks, Appreciate your reply

No pics, but I've successfully used automotive clear coat for a longer lasting repair. Start with whatever paper you need to cut through all the haze, move up to 1200 grit, dry, clean, and apply two coats of clear. I've never tried rattle can stuff, but catalyzed clear coat works great (Dupont, Valspar, etc). You won't have to polish again either because the clear has better UV protection qualities than the plastic. I've also done it on headlights with great success too.

Originally Posted by turbo350

No pics, but I've successfully used automotive clear coat for a longer lasting repair. Start with whatever paper you need to cut through all the haze, move up to 1200 grit, dry, clean, and apply two coats of clear. I've never tried rattle can stuff, but catalyzed clear coat works great (Dupont, Valspar, etc). You won't have to polish again either because the clear has better UV protection qualities than the plastic. I've also done it on headlights with great success too.

Good to know, but If I showed up at Maco for clear coat I think that would be expensive

Originally Posted by turbo350

No pics, but I've successfully used automotive clear coat for a longer lasting repair. Start with whatever paper you need to cut through all the haze, move up to 1200 grit, dry, clean, and apply two coats of clear. I've never tried rattle can stuff, but catalyzed clear coat works great (Dupont, Valspar, etc). You won't have to polish again either because the clear has better UV protection qualities than the plastic. I've also done it on headlights with great success too.

OK, I had a little time on my hands today.
When I saw this last night, I thought it might be a good idea to try it out.
I love new ideas on dome clean-up.

I used polishing compound to get the bug juice, bird poop, tar and some oxidation off.
I then used the "rattle can" clear coat.

What do ya think ??

It would be great for work bars. Can't afford to buy new domes but want your domes to look newer.

DomesWithClearCoat.jpg

Looks like it came out pretty good. Make sure it is very clean and sanded with 1200 grit before any clear. Anything less than 1200 and you will see light sand scratches and anything more and loss of adhesion or delamination is possible. If you really want to test something for everyone, take a grey scuff pad and comet, and scrub an old lens down. The comet cleaner and grey scuff pad will leave a very clean and scuffed suface. Then clear coat it. It won't work if there is any damage, but for just haze, I'd bet it works great.

Not bad!!

Dan

If you really want to test something for everyone, take a grey scuff pad and comet, and scrub an old lens down. The comet cleaner and grey scuff pad will leave a very clean and scuffed suface. Then clear coat it. It won't work if there is any damage, but for just haze, I'd bet it works great.

When I get a chance next week, I will do that - to the left dome in the picture. We will compare
the two and I will give an honest evaluation of the process.

I'm betting you have done this before

Pete

The "scuff and shoot" method is used when painting cars (cheap paint jobs), but its really the same premise. Just make sure the lens only has haze, no real damage that needs to be sanded off. If it has damage, it needs sanding, if its just haze, the comet and scuff pad should cut it pretty good and the clear will bring it back. The best part is I think the lens will have a much longer life as most auto clear coats have much better protection qualities than just plastic. I have a had good results with this on headlight lens as well.

OK, I did it - but it was about the same result as the right dome.

I'm not real sold on this method unless it's a last resort for a really bad dome.

I do lot's of in the field dome cleaning -- on the vehicle -- as fast as I can -- to keep them in service -- stuff.

I'm going to stay with my Plast-X method.

I am restoring yet another pair of AeroDynic domes and there were soot marks of some sort inside the dome (hence prohibiting sanding) that wouldn't come off; probably from exhaust and it sticked inside pretty badly. After some Google research , I tried Mr.Clean's Magic Eraser and it worked like a charm.

I use the janvel 3 step method but I'm going to Novus becuse Janvil wnt out of business. Any why the first thing I do is to wash it in warm water,an i,ve found a new use for the "Magic Eraser and DL hand cleaner it cuts most of the yellow out.and dosn't leave it with scratchs. the clean with mild soap and warm water. dry and the get down to some serious hand rubbing with the componds. if you still have some hazing use the Magic Eraser withe compound cuts it nicely.Then when finishe I use lens clearer you can get free from Walmarts eye center(free refills) the use a orbital buffer for finish. here.s a pic of before. You can See the SD lens and the Signal State lens before cleaning IMG_0007.jpgnow here are the 2 lens cleaned.IMG_0001_crop.jpgIMG_0002_crop.jpgStill in process of finshing the other Signal State

has anyone tried what they call dry buffing to remove sanding scratches from lenses where you use cloth type buffing wheels (hand drill or bench grinder type) and bar compounds?

yes way to fast will burn into the plastic and the you can toss into the trash and if it's hard to find good luck replacing it. stay away from something that will cause it to heat up. I use a Sears orbital buffer and apply very little pressure.

Does anyone know if Plastix would be good for yellowed Liberty lenses?

Originally Posted by ex416

has anyone tried what they call dry buffing to remove sanding scratches from lenses where you use cloth type buffing wheels (hand drill or bench grinder type) and bar compounds?

Dry buffing works well .. with skill .. WITH LOTS OF SKILL

Originally Posted by ryan81986

Does anyone know if Plastix would be good for yellowed Liberty lenses?

No .. Not the best. plastix has no grit to remove the yellow.. try a rubbing compound first remove the yellow then buff it up with plastix

Originally Posted by WPD8908

No .. Not the best. plastix has no grit to remove the yellow.. try a rubbing compound first remove the yellow then buff it up with plastix

Bit the bullet and bought the 3M headlight restoration kit. The bar looks brand new now.

I've got some tar stuck on top of a dome - any idea what I can use to get it off before sanding?

i have used gas on a rag for my tar before.

Originally Posted by ryan

i have used gas on a rag for my tar before.

Does gas tend to cloud the lenses? I have a clear XL dome with black spray paint droplets all over that I'd like to remove. Wondering if gas would o the trick.

There's a new product I just saw on one of my car shows... It called Nite-Shades Red... Basically its the same thing as Nite-Shades (which is used to tint headlights and tail lights charcoal color), but now in red... I think it would be a great way of getting some more life out of some red lenses/filters/domes... Sadly, its only comes in read though...


VHT Nite-Shades™ Red

Anyone try toothpaste?

Originally Posted by I 26

I've got some tar stuck on top of a dome - any idea what I can use to get it off before sanding?

I remove tar with WD40, but I have no idea what it will do to a dome. Works good on fenders.

Originally Posted by I 26

Anyone try toothpaste?

Yes I have, I found that the white (baking soda) toothpaste works the best. It also works well on polishing belt buckles and badges.

I just got a used patriot bar last night. The lenses aren't terrible but I would love to bring them back to the original beauty. What do you all recommend?

3M headlight restoration kit.

Where can i get it? Im guessing a trip to wal-mart or auto part store would have them?

Originally Posted by spc2315

Where can i get it? Im guessing a trip to wal-mart...

Correct.

Short of the 3m HL kit, which I have one..... but, I've also got WS paper as well in 1500 and 2000 grit. I'd like to try both and am about to jump into the whole dome polishing trial and error and I'm still missing it after re-reading the whole thread.

How do you all keep the dome wet? I'd prefer to not have to lean over the bathtub for hours getting it done. So, wet the paper good, then use a spray bottle to keep the dome wet? I read somewhere about putting a drop of dish soap in?? Tips on this specifically?