Thread: Sync Option on Whelen Liberty SX model lightbars

This option enables a half/half, wig/wag style pattern on SX - IO board style Liberty lightbars. This is a great option for a parked patrol car.

1. Remove all the lenses including end caps from the Liberty lightbar.

2. Slide out the 4 corner modules.

3. Lift off the top aluminum plate.

4. Orient yourself with the IO board.

5. Identify the 16 pin connector on the drivers’ side of the board.

6. Identify the 3 pin connector adjacent to the 16 pin connector.

7. There should be two wires running into the 3 pin connector. The third open slot in the housing is the option for the sync function.

8. Determine how you’re going to power this pin. I utilized the white/red wire from the 16 pin connector for this option. Depending on your lightbar setup, you may use another wire from the 16 pin connector or run an auxiliary wire from a 12vdc switch.

9. Decouple the 3 pin amp connector from the IO board.

10. Install the optional wire (in my case the white/red wire from the 16 pin harness) into the open port on the 3 pin plug.
A.) Be sure a female pin is installed if your routing a auxiliary wire.

11. Re-couple the 3 pin connector with the IO board.

Power up the lightbar and apply continuous 12vdc to the white/red wire (user supplied) and you lightbar should shift to a driver/passenger alternating flash pattern.

Steady burn LED's (California Steady Red) will remain steady burn regardless of what mode is in operation. Also, the takedowns and alleys will also flash unless they are activated to their primary mode. The Traffic Advisor option will also override the sync flash.

Sir,

Thank you very much for the video and pictures of Liberty Sync. It is very much appreciated.

Great post! It has been awhile since I connected the sync on the Liberty that was on my patrol car but it seems that this feature also opened up several new flash patterns as well for the entire bar. By applying power to the sync option via a switch allows for the bar to take on several different looks as well.

Keith,

How did you pull the white and red wire out of the original 16 pin connector?

I tried pulling on it and found if I pulled any harder the wire will separate from the metal pin at the end. Is there special tool or way to remove the wire with the pin still attached so it can be easily inserted into the 3 pin connector?

Originally Posted by chief

Keith,

How did you pull the white and red wire out of the original 16 pin connector?

I tried pulling on it and found if I pulled any harder the wire will separate from the metal pin at the end. Is there special tool or way to remove the wire with the pin still attached so it can be easily inserted into the 3 pin connector?

There's a thread going now, where the merits of a special tool for extracting these sorts of pins are being discussed: Extraction tool for AMP pins

I used a flat-blade eyeglass screwdriver to bend the tab back inside of the pin before removing the wire from the sixteen-wire plug. I used the corner of a razor blade to pull the pin back out before reinserting the pin into the empty hole on the three-wire plug.

Originally Posted by chief

Keith,

How did you pull the white and red wire out of the original 16 pin connector?

I tried pulling on it and found if I pulled any harder the wire will separate from the metal pin at the end. Is there special tool or way to remove the wire with the pin still attached so it can be easily inserted into the 3 pin connector?

He didn't pull out the pin. It was never inserted fully. That connector comes standard with 2 wires coming out for the flashing td and al. the 3rd spot is open from the factory. If you have a new pccs9np it comes with 2 spare wires with the pin connected but not inserted into the wiring block. You can also order these wires with the pins attached from Whelen or one of their distributors. Steve

Originally Posted by chief

Keith,

How did you pull the white and red wire out of the original 16 pin connector?

I tried pulling on it and found if I pulled any harder the wire will separate from the metal pin at the end. Is there special tool or way to remove the wire with the pin still attached so it can be easily inserted into the 3 pin connector?

I used the same techniques as shues. There are also pen removal tools that will facilitate the removal of pins. See the link the Shues provided.

I'm amazed how many new patterns are available!

Can someone make a video of the new patterns?

Originally Posted by zack A

Can someone make a video of the new patterns?

I'll put on up onto Youtube.com on Wednesday.

This is now a Sticky Thread, making it easier to find.

We did this on a friend of mines Liberty and it worked, I am not completely sure, but I believe his is an SL bar. It has the regular 9 led corners and the economy heads (the ones that only have 4 led's instead of 6).

Originally Posted by Ultimate D

We did this on a friend of mines Liberty and it worked, I am not completely sure, but I believe his is an SL bar. It has the regular 9 led corners and the economy heads (the ones that only have 4 led's instead of 6).

SL bars had ballasts in them. I'm not 100% sure, but I don't believe the SL was able to do it. Based on your description, your friends bar is likely an economy bar with depopulated heads.

Just wanted to say THANK YOU....... I Synced my bar on my patrol car and damn it made a heck of difference. I Love it. Thanks again for posting this info

Originally Posted by Keith K.

SL bars had ballasts in them. I'm not 100% sure, but I don't believe the SL was able to do it. Based on your description, your friends bar is likely an economy bar with depopulated heads.

Yeah, that is what it is. Thanks again for posting this!

Might be an ackward question, But does this red/white wire serve a purpose? If i pull it out of the 16 pin and put it in the 3 pin, will i be losing some other function? Also, Does this wire follow all the way back to the switch box wiring? Thanks

Ryan

Originally Posted by bcsfd279

Might be an ackward question, But does this red/white wire serve a purpose? If i pull it out of the 16 pin and put it in the 3 pin, will i be losing some other function? Also, Does this wire follow all the way back to the switch box wiring? Thanks

Ryan

Have a look at the install manual, here: http://www.whelen.com/install/137/13745.pdf and pick a wire that is unused in your Liberty. Your red/white wire might already be in use for its designated function of front-center LEDs.

Keith has the red/white wire available, because his Liberty has takedowns in place of the front-center LEDs. There isn't room on his Liberty to have both takedowns and front-center LEDs, so his red/white wire is otherwise unused.

The red/white wire is just like any of the other 16 wires in the main cable, as it runs from one end to the other.

Originally Posted by Keith K.

SL bars had ballasts in them. I'm not 100% sure, but I don't believe the SL was able to do it. Based on your description, your friends bar is likely an economy bar with depopulated heads.

Quick note on the ones I'm sure of: SX were eXtended corner modules, SL were standard 12 LED corners and SE's were Economy versions. While the SL tag was used on some ballast driven units, it's not an exclusive tag.

Also, side note, with so much swapping being done on bars, one of the last things I go by is the Model tag on the frame.

I did another one of these, where the owner uses flashing alleys and takedowns. I just now realized that the alleys and takedowns flash the sync patten as well. For halogen alleys and takedowns, it's only useful on slower patterns where the bulbs get to full brightness. I can only imagine how great it must look with LED alleys and takedowns.

So i should be able to do this on my brand new Liberty SX2

Originally Posted by DefianceEngineCompany

So i should be able to do this on my brand new Liberty SX2

Yes, of course. The '2' in the 'SX2' model number simply means that you have a 54" Liberty.