What to use for a Patrol Boat?

DiverCop

Member
Feb 10, 2015
24
Ohio
Welcoming all input for this problem...

My Department recent purchased a 29' SAFE boat for our newly formed Marine Patrol. (for reference, its like the Coast Guard small boats, just bigger)

Anyways, it came from SAFE boats production facility with a Federal Signal LPX 24" lightbar in all blue. While the light output is great from the bar, we've noticed that due to its mounting position, the tow line and reel blocks the blue light being seen from the stern of our boat.

The solution is to install some surface mounts on the back of the cabin to project blue light to the stern of the boat. I am however torn on either using the Fusion 40 or 180 for this. Given that a boat is always dynamically moving up, down, pitching an rolling...the optical angle is constantly changing.

The 40's pack a super bright punch from a distance, but we all know that going a little off axis outside of the 40 and they loose their intensity.

The 180's cover the widest spectrum, but from what I've seen on You Tube, they can loose significant punch in bright sunlight, which we will have a ton of on the water.

Thoughts and suggestions are welcome!
 

pdk9

Member
May 26, 2010
3,834
New York & Florida
I would go with the 180's. While the 40's can punch a further distance, I value the off-axis output of the 180's for the perimeter warning on any vehicle (or boat, in this case). You can't really compensate for the up & down movement, but the 180's will compensate for the horizontal movement of the boat.
However, if you are still leaning towards the TIR-type optic, I would also consider the SOS mpower fascia. The feniex products are great, but I believe the mpower fascia is basically a thin version of the ghost/ion series with a more rugged "rubbery" housing/optic (suitable for boats IMO)
 
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DiverCop

Member
Feb 10, 2015
24
Ohio
I would go with the 180's. While the 40's can punch a further distance, I value the off-axis output of the 180's for the perimeter warning on any vehicle (or boat, in this case). You can't really compensate for the up & down movement, but the 180's will compensate for the horizontal movement of the boat.
However, if you are still leaning towards the TIR-type optic, I would also consider the SOS mpower fascia. The feniex products are great, but I believe the mpower fascia is basically a thin version of the ghost/ion series with a more rugged "rubbery" housing/optic (suitable for boats IMO)

I haven't investigated the mpower lights. Thanks for the tip, I'll check them out!

I think we may end up ultimately getting the 180's for the optical spread. The Sgt. in charge of the unit says he's really only concerned about the illumination from the stern when we are in close proximity to other vessels....and as we all know, ALL LED's are bright at night.
 

DiverCop

Member
Feb 10, 2015
24
Ohio
I really like this idea. Double-stacking and syncing them with different optics gives you the best of both worlds with a larger surface-area of light.

acdn2.bigcommerce.com_n_pktq5q_jz0ukb45_products_1208_images_50a30652f6f125c3be57d474350741ee8.jpg

Yeah, if we had the space where we need to mount these, that's for sure the solution...but alas, we do not.
 
Ok the simple answer to all issues concerning up, down, left, and right motion is a total of 4 180° Heads. I'm not sure if this would fit in the space you have to work with but here's the idea. Two heads on each side but NOT double stacked. Mount one horizontal and one vertical. This could be accomplished a few different ways.

1. Vertical head to the far side of the horizontal head. This would pretty much look like a forward, backward, or upside down capital L

2. Vertical in the middle of the horizontal head like a capital T

3. Separately, place the horizontal head where you were planning on then mount the vertical head in an other appropriate location.

Just wanted to toss in my two cents.
 
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DiverCop

Member
Feb 10, 2015
24
Ohio
Ok the simple answer to all issues concerning up, down, left, and right motion is a total of 4 180° Heads. I'm not sure if this would fit in the space you have to work with but here's the idea. Two heads on each side but NOT double stacked. Mount one horizontal and one vertical. This could be accomplished a few different ways.

1. Vertical head to the far side of the horizontal head. This would pretty much look like a forward, backward, or upside down capital L

2. Vertical in the middle of the horizontal head like a capital T

3. Separately, place the horizontal head where you were planning on then mount the vertical head in an other appropriate location.

Just wanted to toss in my two cents.



Hmm...you pose an interesting solution, and I think it would cover all the directions we'd move. Space and the brackets are definitely the limitations, as well as running the wires. I'll have to do some measurements and see if the vertical mount would be an option!
 
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