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SS2000 Smart Siren

The Responder flasher was designed for one LIN6 head (1 amp max) on each of the six outputs, and I wouldn't exceed that. As I recall, it's also a negative-switched flasher, so keep that in mind when you set up your wiring. Really, you'd probably be best off looking for a cheap used ULF or...

Parrpse.com

Thanks, now I don’t feel so bad about my attempted dual tone PA-15 project.

Quote of the day: “they maybe underestimated how explosive that would be.” Very grateful no one was injured.

^^^ this guy knows more about Feniex products than anyone at Feniex.

The mode wire for the Fusion 600 is a low current trigger. You shouldn’t need a relay.

Speaker wire should be 18 AWG, but you’d still get sound with smaller wire, so that’s not the main issue. Do you hear any sound from the siren amp when the air horn is activated?

L1 through L3 are rated 40A combined and each rocker switch is 15A. Should be plenty for an LED setup without additional relays.

When separate circuits interact, it's almost certainly a ground problem. The fix might be as easy as tightening connections in the electric cabinet, or it might require more extensive tracing. Start by pulling the BTT lights and checking whether they're grounded to the body, to a common bus, or...

As long as the insulation isn't brittle, the existing wire is fine to use.

The pics above are from http://www.wb6nvh.com/CHP/CHP2.htm Here's another, showing the setup on a 69 Polara http://www.wb6nvh.com/CHP/Dodge69.JPG

The negative power wire goes to one of the rotator bases, and a jumper (visible in your pic above) connects to the other rotator.

The CC1 dates to 1982, per this document: http://www.specialservicemustang.net/FSCC1.pdf Earlier CHP cars used a toggle switch panel.

This should be the correct connection for a low impedance (e.g., carbon or amplified) mic:

My question is, what were they smoking when the called it “420?”

Great! PM sent.

Could you do a two pack?

If you're thinking of a self-leveling gimbal mount, I haven't seen anything like that. You could probably come up with some kind of pivoting mount that would allow for manual adjustment when the hatch is open.

The CHP rear light setup for many years was was two PAR46 lamps on a shop-made (some refer to it as “prison labor”) bracket. Switching was set for either flashing amber (caution) or flashing red (stop), not both. An alternating blue lamp was added to some vehicles beginning in the 80s. There’s...

I'm not aware of any siren that will drive 200 W into an 11 Ohm load.

You can use diodes to bypass the flasher for steady burn. Your installer should know how to do that.

I'm currently in the process of relocation and restructuring my operations. Please feel free to refer to my Facebook page, https://www.facebook.com/RetroTechElectronics for future updates.

Because physics, lol. The siren amp doesn't need to detect or change anything. The output of the amp (whether it's 100 or 200 W) is a constant square wave of about 33 Vrms. Driving one 11 Ohm speaker, this produces 100 W output, per the equation above. A second speaker, wired in parallel to the...

Check the internal 20A fuse and I replied to your message.

As far as I can tell, there isn't an actual error, but if you "try again" you get duplicate posts.

Based on the the available documentation and my experience, the FDNY PA300 is a 200W version, with variable resistor R57 set for a higher pitch range (1,800 Hz peak instead of 1,575 Hz) and no connection at the Hi-Lo position of the function switch. That's all, folks!

What makes you think they're "better?"