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In the second photo then you can see the drain and then my hole just to the right of it, If you take apart the drivers front wheel liner you can visualize where the drain comes through as you drill. There is actually a small void space where the drain and my hole comes through and you can bring...

There should be a very large factory grommet in both sides of the front footwells that you can go though. Unless you have a sunroof in which case the drains are in those factory holes. Pic with blue circle is passenger side w/o sunroof. On the vehicle I installed with a sunroof I ended up...

What is everyone using for CAN wiring like for WeCan devices? Looking for a some sort of appropriate twisted shielded wire for the 3 conductors. I believe Whelen recommends 7 twists per foot.

You'll probably have to use a relay to cut power to the red trigger wire when you provide steady power to the white trigger wire with your external switch. Like this

The programming software is TRASH and documentation is non-existent.

Make sure the knob position is set to Trunking TG Scan and not Trunking TG Monitor. Monitor will receive all talkgroups active on the current site.

Make sure the "Push to Listen" box is unchecked on the knob position.

I've programmed a few in my day. What are you trying to do?

Another option is the headliner. Pull off the door weatherstripping and you should be able to pull down the edge of the headliner. Many times there is a large amount of room there on the edge of the headliner where it meets the gasket without having to remove anything else. I just did work on a...

Run in loom in the doorsills

I'm upgrading the alert system at my fire station. We decode quick call II tones using a CDM1250. The external alarm wire output sets off the house bells and lights when we get a call. One of the nearby departments has a unique alert tone that I want to replicate. I believe it is a sound that...

It's a real PITA. Look at the stock config and copy how the Wail, Yelp, and T3 buttons are configured as they should have override from the factory.

The Ions are the factory Ford brackets & shrouds. The LINZ6s below were added by the upfitter. In post #14 you can very clearly see they are Ions.

I've used the Brookings flasher a few times. Pretty slick solution but the flash patterns are crappy.

They were Ions with custom Ford brackets and shrouds. You can get the parts from Ford but it's pricy. I would recommend two Spitfire Ions. You should be able to rewire the Spitfire Ions for sync if you make your own wiring harness.

Pretty sure it was only 16-19 that could use the Whelen plug in flasher. 15 and older have the projector headlights with shutters which require the Axixtech Brookings flasher to hold the shutters open and then flash the bulbs.

If the vehicle doesn't have Sync the keypad should do the radio presets.

They also use Whelen Slimlighters

Are they not FedSig Vipers? Even if it's not a Viper it's probably FedSig something.

Pick up a relay at your local auto parts store and that should do the trick.

Stay away from the LINZ6 at all costs due to their water issues.

The Mini T-Ions should work with the Outer Edge flasher on steady burn right?

Anybody swap their LINZ6 outer edge to the mini T-Ions because of the water issues? Whelen makes a bracket to replace a LINZ6 with a mini T-Ion.

There should be a connector/wire mounted to the inside of the metal A pillar under the trim. The wire from the spotlight connects there although most of the time the tech/upfitter adds another connector so the handle can be removed and the wire disconnected without removing the trim. I would...

Are those batteries connected through an isolator or simply in parallel? If there's no isolator you don't need a dual charger.

Kussmaul is pretty much the gold standard for emergency vehicles. The only other chargers I might go with are Vanner or maybe Blue Sea (more geared towards marine?) Kussmaul has the new auto ejects with the display built in which seems pretty slick.

Seems like a cheap (not in a good way) alternative. Can only charge at 10A max which seems low for an emergency vehicle. Does not seem to support an external display or have a battery saver for charging flashlights/portable radios etc..

Just go to your local auto parts store and pick up some SPST Bosch-style automotive relays. Pin 30 to your fuse box 12V Pin 87 to your lights Pin 85 to the output of the controller Pin 86 to ground If you pick up some relays that have an 87a pin, that's OK, because you won't need that pin...

One of the buttons can be assigned to "Backlight Control". I would check in the programming and make sure one of the buttons is programmed as such and the backlight isn't set to "off". Backlight level can be set at: Radio Configuration -> Lights/LEDs tab -> Mobile Backlight Intensity dropdown

So finally found time to troubleshoot this further. I am getting about 19 volts right at the amplifier and slightly less than that at the speaker. Also tried a second new Feniex speaker connected right to the amplifier and it still seems quiet. All signs point towards a bad amplifier it seems.