2013 civilian Explorer firewall

twodogs603

Member
Sep 7, 2011
1,196
Norfolk,VA
I will be getting a 2013 civilian Explorer tomorrow for a lightbar. For those that have done any work on one, where did you find the best place to go thru the firewall? I know the Police Utility has a specific location for routing wires to under the hood, which Im sure the civilian model doesnt.
 

thekameleon

Member
Jul 19, 2013
95
Illinois
fier23 said:
Straight through the firewall. Perfect spot.

I can't find it... Is it behind the glove box? Is it below the glove box? is it behind the carpet/padding? Does anyone have pictures that can guide me? I followed some other directions and the grommet is not where those directions said it would be. I had pulled the glove box and air bag out and still couldn't find it. Also the other directions I had found showed the wires being routed through the passenger wheel well into the engine compartment. So I am hoping your guidance can work out better.
 

thekameleon

Member
Jul 19, 2013
95
Illinois
thekameleon said:
I can't find it... Is it behind the glove box? Is it below the glove box? is it behind the carpet/padding? Does anyone have pictures that can guide me? I followed some other directions and the grommet is not where those directions said it would be. I had pulled the glove box and air bag out and still couldn't find it. Also the other directions I had found showed the wires being routed through the passenger wheel well into the engine compartment. So I am hoping your guidance can work out better.

Anyone???? I fear the only way is to drill my own hole. Is there an ideal spot to do so. Also besides the grommet , how should I seal it?
 

twodogs603

Member
Sep 7, 2011
1,196
Norfolk,VA
The only grommet I have found on the civilian explorer is in the upper most corner of the firewall on the right side where the rubber tube comes thru that sends washer fluid to the rear window. I made a slit in it and passed wires thru it then sealed it up.
 

thekameleon

Member
Jul 19, 2013
95
Illinois
twodogs603 said:
The only grommet I have found on the civilian explorer is in the upper most corner of the firewall on the right side where the rubber tube comes thru that sends washer fluid to the rear window. I made a slit in it and passed wires thru it then sealed it up.

Do I have to pull the whole dash to get to it? Can I access it, if I just pull the glove box and "knee/shin" airbag out? Got a picture so I know what I am looking for under there by chance?
 

Tom

Member
Dec 18, 2010
3,083
Taunton, MA
fier23 said:
Passenger side under glovebox. Pretty easy grommet under there.

When I worked on Utilitys, I would just take the wheel off and peel back the lining. If that's the route you want to take, the wheel has to come off. It's the quickest and easiest way, IMO. There is a grommet under the glovebox, but it goes into the front passenger wheel well. When you take the wheel off and peel back the lining, there will be a black grommet that you push your fingers through. Then go inside the vehicle and feel under the glovebox for the grommet. The wire goes down into the wheel well through that hole, then you have to snake it through another hole once in the wheel well up into the hood. Make sure you use a grommet and loom to protect the wire.


This was my experience when working on the police version, not civilian, but there may still be the same grommet.
 

thekameleon

Member
Jul 19, 2013
95
Illinois
From the pictures I have seen. there is some sort of aluminum box where the grommet is supposed to be (I think). I pulled the glove box and airbag out from the passenger side and looked for 3 hours for a grommet with no luck... Just the aluminum box. I am going to attempt to find the rear window fluid line and see if I can run along there.
 

twodogs603

Member
Sep 7, 2011
1,196
Norfolk,VA
thekameleon said:
Do I have to pull the whole dash to get to it? Can I access it, if I just pull the glove box and "knee/shin" airbag out? Got a picture so I know what I am looking for under there by chance?

You have to get on your back and lay down in the passenger floorboard, look up under the dash in the top right corner of the firewall...You will see the grommet where the hose goes thru. Just be careful not to cut the hose. And if you unclip if from all its mounting clips under the hood, it will give you a little more slack to pull it into the passenger compartment.


Worse case scenario, look under the hood where the hose goes thru the firewall and push it thru. Then you should be able to see daylight coming thru the hole under the dash.
 

thekameleon

Member
Jul 19, 2013
95
Illinois
twodogs603 said:
You have to get on your back and lay down in the passenger floorboard, look up under the dash in the top right corner of the firewall...You will see the grommet where the hose goes thru. Just be careful not to cut the hose. And if you unclip if from all its mounting clips under the hood, it will give you a little more slack to pull it into the passenger compartment.
Worse case scenario, look under the hood where the hose goes thru the firewall and push it thru. Then you should be able to see daylight coming thru the hole under the dash.

That is extremely helpful... So last question....(for now :) ), how many wires do you think I can get through there? I was planning on up to 12 #16 gauge and 1 #8 gauge
 

thekameleon

Member
Jul 19, 2013
95
Illinois
Well I found it and it looks like I will get 3 or 4 16 gauge wires through the hole at best. Unfortunately, if I did my math right, I will need an 8 gauge power wire to come into the passenger compartment for the control switch.


So I guess there is only one option left. Drill, baby drill. I have drilled older cars, but trying to figure out the best spot is a little challenging on these newer Explorers. Unless you want to pull the engine apart. one option I am looking at is drilling a high point on the passenger side floor board from underneath. Somewhere near the brake and fuel lines. However the option is to drill a whole in the frame along the passenger door. There is already a hole on the underside of the frame where it looks like it was used as a guide during the manufacturing process. So my question is, If I drill a 3/4" hole in the frame, will I compromise the integrity of the vehicle structure? Is this a no-no?
 

Davisnet28

Member
Sep 3, 2012
44
Clinton ma
Anyone have pictures of this? Anyone just drill straight up from the bottom? I was thinking of drilling from the bottom placing a grommet and silicon it for double protection or drilling on the drivers side but I don't want to drill into the brake booster.
 
Jan 19, 2012
304
Normal, IL
Just did an install on one this weekend... what a giant pain in the %!!


The windshield washer fluid grommet is probably your best bet, but it's blind work behind the dash and a tight squeeze on the engine side.


All in all these vehicles are just awful to work on. Even just common sense stuff like the fuse panel location under the drivers dash board behind the steering wheel and halfway up the dashboard... I mean... really? No room behind the grille for speakers or anything with any depth... and the list goes on from there...
 

VII

Member
Mar 28, 2013
44
MN
SirenWorld.com said:
Just did an install on one this weekend... what a giant pain in the %!!

The windshield washer fluid grommet is probably your best bet, but it's blind work behind the dash and a tight squeeze on the engine side.


All in all these vehicles are just awful to work on. Even just common sense stuff like the fuse panel location under the drivers dash board behind the steering wheel and halfway up the dashboard... I mean... really? No room behind the grille for speakers or anything with any depth... and the list goes on from there...

I agree.


Why make a full grill cover and have no room for more than 2 ions?


On topic, I've seen a few times on here that there is another place on the drivers side to the immediate right of the Ebrake cable to drill. Have done this before and it's nice and easy to get to, no wrenching your arms to find the right angle etc.
 

thekameleon

Member
Jul 19, 2013
95
Illinois
SirenWorld.com said:
Just did an install on one this weekend... what a giant pain in the %!!

The windshield washer fluid grommet is probably your best bet, but it's blind work behind the dash and a tight squeeze on the engine side.


All in all these vehicles are just awful to work on. Even just common sense stuff like the fuse panel location under the drivers dash board behind the steering wheel and halfway up the dashboard... I mean... really? No room behind the grille for speakers or anything with any depth... and the list goes on from there...

Ughhh. Why did I get an Explorer... So I fear the windshield washing grommet won't work because of the number of wires I need (16 all together). For 15 wires at 16 gauge and 1 8 guage wire how big of a hole do I need.


Also Matt, if you can, love to see pics on how you wired into the passenger fuse box.
 

Davisnet28

Member
Sep 3, 2012
44
Clinton ma
SirenWorld.com said:
Just did an install on one this weekend... what a giant pain in the %!!

The windshield washer fluid grommet is probably your best bet, but it's blind work behind the dash and a tight squeeze on the engine side.


All in all these vehicles are just awful to work on. Even just common sense stuff like the fuse panel location under the drivers dash board behind the steering wheel and halfway up the dashboard... I mean... really? No room behind the grille for speakers or anything with any depth... and the list goes on from there...

Just doesn't make sense why they made it so difficult, especially since they knew it would most likely be used for emergency vehicles and lights and sirens would have to get wired
 

twodogs603

Member
Sep 7, 2011
1,196
Norfolk,VA
thekameleon said:
Ughhh. Why did I get an Explorer... So I fear the windshield washing grommet won't work because of the number of wires I need (16 all together). For 15 wires at 16 gauge and 1 8 guage wire how big of a hole do I need.

Also Matt, if you can, love to see pics on how you wired into the passenger fuse box.

What in the world are you doing that you need to run 15 16g wires thru the firewall?
 
Jan 19, 2012
304
Normal, IL
twodogs603 said:
What in the world are you doing that you need to run 15 16g wires thru the firewall?

My thoughts exactly! Holy crap! :eek:
 

thekameleon

Member
Jul 19, 2013
95
Illinois
twodogs603 said:
What in the world are you doing that you need to run 15 16g wires thru the firewall?

I knew someone would ask. So here it goes. I will have a 911EP LS12, Two Feniex Cannon Blue/Blue and Two Cannon Blue/White, two speaker wires. I intend on syncing all of my light heads both in my dash and front. I am using a SoundOff flasher. I also have the Feniex 4200. I intend on replacing the fog lights with the Blue White Cannon and using the White as a drive light... Ok so here is my plan, 4 wires for the cannons that come from the Sound off Flasher, 2 for the speakers, 4 for the 911EP... That's 10 right there. For the Blue Blue cannons, I intend on using the Feniex 4200 Wig Wag flasher as a slow alternate between the Cannon and steady burn of the LS12... This is meant for when I am parked at the scene... Keep it slow right? So I need 2 more wires with that... Now I am at 12. Lastly I need one more wire to actuate a DPDT that will turn off my running lights (halo light I installed) and fog lights when the lights come on and I need 1 wire that I can use to trigger night mode from parking lights... So that adds two more for a total of 14... I intended to add 1 more wire for good measure and I am pulling my 60 amp power wire for the 4200 which is the 8 gauge wire.


So yes it gives me the greatest flexibility and control. I'd rather have this granular control and make changes through software programming of the 4200 then re-wiring...


I am open to feedback, but I am pretty set in my direction.


<speech type="soapbox">


On this whole firewall note... I think the manufactures out there should get on the "wireless" bandwagon...There is this wonderful technology called Bluetooth... just saying.


</speech>
 

VII

Member
Mar 28, 2013
44
MN
thekameleon said:
I knew someone would ask. So here it goes. I will have a 911EP LS12, Two Feniex Cannon Blue/Blue and Two Cannon Blue/White, two speaker wires. I intend on syncing all of my light heads both in my dash and front. I am using a SoundOff flasher. I also have the Feniex 4200. I intend on replacing the fog lights with the Blue White Cannon and using the White as a drive light... Ok so here is my plan, 4 wires for the cannons that come from the Sound off Flasher, 2 for the speakers, 4 for the 911EP... That's 10 right there. For the Blue Blue cannons, I intend on using the Feniex 4200 Wig Wag flasher as a slow alternate between the Cannon and steady burn of the LS12... This is meant for when I am parked at the scene... Keep it slow right? So I need 2 more wires with that... Now I am at 12. Lastly I need one more wire to actuate a DPDT that will turn off my running lights (halo light I installed) and fog lights when the lights come on and I need 1 wire that I can use to trigger night mode from parking lights... So that adds two more for a total of 14... I intended to add 1 more wire for good measure and I am pulling my 60 amp power wire for the 4200 which is the 8 gauge wire.

So yes it gives me the greatest flexibility and control. I'd rather have this granular control and make changes through software programming of the 4200 then re-wiring...


I am open to feedback, but I am pretty set in my direction.


<speech type="soapbox">


On this whole firewall note... I think the manufactures out there should get on the "wireless" bandwagon...There is this wonderful technology called Bluetooth... just saying.


</speech>

I'm still trying to wrap my head around what you're saying but that seems like a lot of unnecessary wiring. Are you not putting the flasher inside of the vehicle?


I'm not going to go one by one and tell you what you should do, but this seems a little much.


But hey, your car!
 

VII

Member
Mar 28, 2013
44
MN
VII said:
I'm still trying to wrap my head around what you're saying but that seems like a lot of unnecessary wiring. Are you not putting the flasher inside of the vehicle?

I'm not going to go one by one and tell you what you should do, but this seems a little much.


But hey, your car!
I've just never in my life of doing this professionally put that many wires through a firewall, OR ever needed to. Even on bigger builds , and not squads. Run One trigger for each light position, one speaker, one per sync, and one for your relay system. Mount your flashers inside the engine bay.


You're putting yourself into a world of headache , there are much easier ways to do what you're trying to do.
 

MEVS06

New Member
May 23, 2010
3,485
San Antonio, TX
I will be doing something similar soon on my truck. I have acquired a few Liberty I/O boards and harnesses so I can have my truck completely sync'd. All controlled by my Feniex 4200 and possibly my Smart Siren also.... I haven't decided yet.


Good luckon your quest, I would use a slug in a 12 guage through the floor board of that pita... lol
 

thekameleon

Member
Jul 19, 2013
95
Illinois
VII said:
I've just never in my life of doing this professionally put that many wires through a firewall, OR ever needed to. Even on bigger builds , and not squads. Run One trigger for each light position, one speaker, one per sync, and one for your relay system. Mount your flashers inside the engine bay.
You're putting yourself into a world of headache , there are much easier ways to do what you're trying to do.

I am mounting my flasher in the passenger as it will also sync my dash light, mirror lights and rear (Backup and turn signal). So I figured the passenger compartment is the best bet. I want to have different flash modes based on the triggers such as . When I hit the brakes (probably approaching an intersection) I want the pattern to change. Or when I place the vehicle in park (at the scene), I want my patterns to be very slow in-out flash pattern as opposed to side to side alternating. I am trying to follow the spirit of NFPA 1901 while following my state laws.
 

TACKLEBERRY

Member
Sep 20, 2010
231
Norton, MA
What flasher are you using? I didn't think SOS had any LED flashers with multiple modes. I thought the Whelen ULF44 was the only viable option for this.


You could use two ULF44s. Mount one under the hood for all your grille and hideaways and then mount one in the passenger compartment. Then run a sync wire to both flashers.
 

thekameleon

Member
Jul 19, 2013
95
Illinois
TACKLEBERRY said:
What flasher are you using? I didn't think SOS had any LED flashers with multiple modes. I thought the Whelen ULF44 was the only viable option for this.

You could use two ULF44s. Mount one under the hood for all your grille and hideaways and then mount one in the passenger compartment. Then run a sync wire to both flashers.

I am using the ETFFC12LED from SOS. you can find it here: http://www.soundoffsignal.com/sites/default/files/Flashers%20Catalog_1.pdf
 

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