Adding Takedown/Wig-Wag in '13 PI Sedan

okc_f150

Member
Oct 3, 2013
318
Oklahoma City
I bow to the mighty knowledge of the equipment gurus of ELB

I'm doing an install with a police officer in town. He wants to add two round LED spotlights to his PB, these will flash and also do takedown function.

We have ordered the lights he wants from Lifetime LED, and a HLF from a member here.

I planned to relocate the grille lights to the side of the PB (White Impaxx 3s) and put the new lights in place of these.

The car has a Valor LB, Impaxx on the PB, Vipers on the rear deck and FedSig LAWs in the taillights. All controlled by a SmartSiren Platinum.

I have a few questions as I've not done an install in a PI Sedan yet;
  • What is the best way to control the flash function? Should I take power from the Impaxx (hooked to the "HLF" button of the SS)? The officer wants them all to flash at the same time.
  • Is there an option to activate the takedown mode from inside the engine compartment via the SS? My first thought was run a wire to a new switch in the console. If we can get those tied to the SS Takedown button that would be best!
  • Any tips/words of wisdom for an install like this?
Lots of officers with the new PIs don't like the Impaxx and lack of HLF so I can see this being an upgrade that I will do more of in the future.

Thanks!!
 

CHIEFOPS

Member
Jan 24, 2011
1,532
NYC
Lights mounted on a push bumper can not be seriously considered as takedown lights, they're entirely too low to perform that function
 

StEaLtH2

Member
Mar 3, 2011
2,159
New England
I understand that, the Valor is the primary "takedown" function. The officer would like additional "flood lighting" to the front.

I like the fact the officer can add these to his ride. I'd prefer to be able to steady light them without the valor even. For those times when more light will be helpful vs daylight from the Valor.
 

PJD642

New Member
May 20, 2010
1,543
east of Cleveland
flasher.jpg
Pretty sure I got this from somewhere on this board a while ago, but I'm thinking this is exactly what you need to do. One switch for wigwag, a second to override/activate steady burn.
 

buddek09

Member
Aug 15, 2012
339
US, Ohio
What model HLF did you get? You should be able to wire the flash wire up to the Impaxx beacuse most HLF's have a separate power wire that gets run to the battery so the flash wire is low current. I'd recommend wiring it to slide switch position 3 or a separate switch though, depending on his setup. Cars around here have rear lights only on 1 and all their lights on by slide position 2, except for white which turns on in position 3. That way they can turn off the white but leave the rest of the front lights on.

I agree with Stealth that the steady on should be a separate switch.

If it's not an isolated HLF then 3 diodes will be needed to prevent backfeeding.
 
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okc_f150

Member
Oct 3, 2013
318
Oklahoma City
I got the Whelen UHF2150A headlight flasher.

My thinking was to put the new LEDs in place of the "headlight" (solid color wires). The "High Beam Override" wire (white/black & white/blue) to the flood switch.

To flash, hook the orange wire to the Impaxx control wire for flashing.

What model HLF did you get? You should be able to wire the flash wire up to the Impaxx beacuse most HLF's have a separate power wire that gets run to the battery so the flash wire is low current. I'd recommend wiring it to slide switch position 3 or a separate switch though, depending on his setup. Cars around here have rear lights only on 1 and all their lights on by slide position 2, except for white which turns on in position 3. That way they can turn off the white but leave the rest of the front lights on.

The white Impaxx are already set to come on with slide 2 and 3 since these didn't come with a real HLF. Most officers don't know to back the slide to 2 when stopped so they run with the white flashing Valor when stopped most of the time.

Any advice on splicing in to the SmartSiren for the "High Beam Override" function?
 

buddek09

Member
Aug 15, 2012
339
US, Ohio
I agree shues, I didn't think of that because they wouldn't have to worry about hitting a button or slide switch to turn the white off.

The white/black wire gets wired in with the Orange light because you will be using it in the "Positive-Side Switched Headlights" option not the negative. The "High Beam Override", which is the white wire, gets wired into the same place the white/blue and white/yellow get wired into.

Now where those 3 wires hook in will depend on a several things. First thing will be what output the flood switch triggers because it should be a 10 amp output but their is a very slight chance it's on one of the 2 or 3 amp outputs. Secondly it depends on how much current the new lights draw. Quickly looking at the lights they offer you should be okay if it's the 10 amp output. However, if it's not 10 amps then you will need to rewire the output to trigger a relay which will switch the power for the high beam override and takedowns on the lightbar.
 

Hollywood

New Member
May 24, 2010
218
Oklahoma
A park-kill module would be of significant benefit here.

Yes. I am assuming you're working on an OCPD take home. On our "moose lights", they didn't add a park kill per se they simply made it to where the front flashing of the KC's (now LED off road lights on the 16's) flashed when the siren was on.
 

okc_f150

Member
Oct 3, 2013
318
Oklahoma City
Yes. I am assuming you're working on an OCPD take home. On our "moose lights", they didn't add a park kill per se they simply made it to where the front flashing of the KC's (now LED off road lights on the 16's) flashed when the siren was on.

That is correct. The flashing white isn't really a big deal. We are going to tie the flashing to the front lights on the PB. They are already on a seperate "HLF" switch that comes on in slide 3 and has a separate activation button.

The thing I really need advice on is, how do I get the flood override mode tied into the SmartSiren?
 

ERM

Member
May 22, 2010
720
Omaha, NE
Then tap into the shutter wire. Use a relay and a flyback diode to protect the shutter circuit from the emf collapse of the relay.

You will only need to tap into one shutter wire. Good luck.
Tony
 

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