Another 911EP Millennium Lightbar problem.

[Jordan_TCFD]

I have an all blue 48 inch Millennium lightbar. It was working just fine, just a few LED's not working. I hooked everything up again and after just a few minutes it does not want to work any more. I have full 13.5-7 volts, have the CID powered and the bar powered. When I turn the power supply on some of the LED's flash for a half second on the bar, but that's it. The green light is on, the red and yellow will flash some times. Nothing consistent. With this testing session, the green and yellow were on. Then something happened and everything stopped working.


I have searched Google and here and haven't found much information on this. I don't have another CID box to test, so can't do anything like that.


I was going to try to change the LED's to red/amber and put on one of our trucks, but if I can't get it working properly, then I'll just scrap the idea(and possibly the bar).


I know these bars are notorious for problems, so I'm not surprised with this. I thought I had a working bar, but apparently not.

 

[fire1]

C.I.D. Indicator Lights


With the C.I.D. and Millennium® powered up and the blue and white data wires terminated at the C.I.D., the C.I.D.’s indicator lights should be as follows: Green – Steady-on, Amber – Blinking, Red – Off.


The red light on steady indicates a communication error between the Millennium® and the C.I.D. Box. Check that the blue and white data wires are properly connected and that the Millennium® is powered up. The Millennium® will not function if there is a communication error. Also check your fuses.


http://www.911ep.com/PDF/Millennium_InstallTabloid.pdf

 

[Ultimate D]

I agree with fire1, check your fuses, something could have slipped and shorted itself out. The fuses are located in each end cap. Also, check your connections, then double check, then check again. Redundant, I know, but it helps, the slightest hiccup, and these things won't work.


Keep us posted!

 

[Jordan_TCFD]

I have everything hooked up. All fuses are good. The yellow light comes on when you pull the computer fuse, on both sides. The difference I have is my small wires are red and black and the bigger wires are white and black, coming from the bar.


This morning, after leaving the power supply off over night, I turned the bar on(hooked to Code 2), and it came on for about 5 seconds and turned on. At the same time the yellow and red lights were flashing. After a few seconds, the bar turns off and only the green light is on. The yellow doesn't turn back on. It's sounding like I have a bad CID or a internal computer problems.

 

[Jordan_TCFD]

I also just opened the CID box and there doesn't seem to be any cold solder joints either. Not sure on the bar.

 

[Zapp Brannigan]

I know the Millennium Bars were plagued with problems, partially, I am sure, to being in the first generation of 2 of LED warning technology. A real shame, I loved the early 911EP products for their patterns, and size (Millennium were THIN in height), but they aren't nearly as bright as the newer generation of 911EP lines (which lack some of those patterns I loved so much).


If you do decide to get rid of the bar, let me know, I would love to tinker around with it!!


Good luck though, let us know what you find!!

 

[Jordan_TCFD]

Well, I, on a hunch, took the the driver's side apart,and what did I find, a bunch of corrosion. So, I have found my problem. The bar works better with the driver panel not hooked up, but still turns off. If I'm going to use this bar, I will be replacing the PC boards inside and the rails. Looks like the CID is good. My next challenge is changing this bar to red/amber.


I have found a company that has the 3 watt LED's like used in this bar, so I am looking at soldering new LED's into place to change the colors.


Jordan,TCFD

 

[Zapp Brannigan]

Well, I, on a hunch, took the the driver's side apart,and what did I find, a bunch of corrosion. So, I have found my problem. The bar works better with the driver panel not hooked up, but still turns off. If I'm going to use this bar, I will be replacing the PC boards inside and the rails. Looks like the CID is good. My next challenge is changing this bar to red/amber.

I have found a company that has the 3 watt LED's like used in this bar, so I am looking at soldering new LED's into place to change the colors.


Jordan,TCFD

Millennium Bars using 3W LEDs? That doesn't sound right with how long ago those bars were made. I would double check on that just to be sure...

 

[Jordan_TCFD]

That's what I'm assuming. Of all the 1 watt LED's that are the shape of the Millenniums, they are not 3 volt LED's. The only thing I can find that's 3 volts are 3 watt LED's and are the same color base and have the same dome shape over the LED. I have been working on this project for 3 weeks now, I have done a lot of searching and researching as far as the LED's go.

Millennium Bars using 3W LEDs? That doesn't sound right with how long ago those bars were made. I would double check on that just to be sure...

 

[Zapp Brannigan]

That's what I'm assuming. Of all the 1 watt LED's that are the shape of the Millenniums, they are not 3 volt LED's. The only thing I can find that's 3 volts are 3 watt LED's and are the same color base and have the same dome shape over the LED. I have been working on this project for 3 weeks now, I have done a lot of searching and researching as far as the LED's go.

Not a criticism on your research, I was just saying to be sure lol! Nothing worse than messing up one number after retrofitting the whole thing lol!! Just wanted to see that you had the correct figures is all!! :thumbsup:


So the Voltage to the LED circuit boards is 3 Volts? I have a newer style 911EP TDWL which had the flasher die in, but all the LEDs and everything work fine. I had wanted to get another flasher and make a custom warning bar, but was never able to find out the actual voltage that went to the circuit boards on the NEWER style ones, but I had thought maybe that was one thing that didn't change between the older and newer units.


I would love to go back and still complete that project some day! If only the older 911EP products could just be "upgraded" and retrofitted with the newest style heads they have... I would buy do that in a flash!!!!!!11

 

[Jordan_TCFD]

Not a criticism on your research, I was just saying to be sure lol! Nothing worse than messing up one number after retrofitting the whole thing lol!! Just wanted to see that you had the correct figures is all!! :thumbsup:

So the Voltage to the LED circuit boards is 3 Volts? I have a newer style 911EP TDWL which had the flasher die in, but all the LEDs and everything work fine. I had wanted to get another flasher and make a custom warning bar, but was never able to find out the actual voltage that went to the circuit boards on the NEWER style ones, but I had thought maybe that was one thing that didn't change between the older and newer units.


I would love to go back and still complete that project some day! If only the older 911EP products could just be "upgraded" and retrofitted with the newest style heads they have... I would buy do that in a flash!!!!!!11

Each LED is 3 volts. They are in series, so applied voltage is 9 volts. I found an auction on Ebay, that after figuring the voltages out, the seller said that the LED's were 3 watt and 3 volts and 9 volts total.


Yes, if you put 4 of these LED's, you should be able to run them on 12 volts.

 

[Zapp Brannigan]

Each LED is 3 volts. They are in series, so applied voltage is 9 volts. I found an auction on Ebay, that after figuring the voltages out, the seller said that the LED's were 3 watt and 3 volts and 9 volts total.

Yes, if you put 4 of these LED's, you should be able to run them on 12 volts.

Ok, but that is the older modules, I need to confirm what the newer style heads run on, which I hope is at least similar. Thanks for the information, and, just curious where you were able to find out that information? :thumbsup:

 

[Jordan_TCFD]

If I need to replace the curciut boards inside, how much should I pour into this bar, before it's not worth it?The single LED's are going to run about $50-$75, which if the bar 110% worked, I wouldn't mind putting into it. If everything is in good condition(boards and CID), would anyone else hesitate to put this into service? I don't want to put this on a fire truck(in our case a F-150 brush truck) and only get a little bit of service out of it.


Jordan,TCFD

 

[342]

I also have a 49" millennium 911ep, I have had problems with one led in the rear that sometimes works and most of the time that does not. For the most part have only had some minor issues, The other issues that I have had is when I have the alley lights on, the end caps flash dimmly. May be taking it off of truck soon, (all blue front, end caps, rear blue/amber/red)

 

[Jordan_TCFD]

Question on the CID box. When you have power applied to the box but not hooked to the bar, what should the red light be doing? After noticing a few things the red light will intermittently flash even if the bar is not hooked up. The yellow light doesn't always turn on, but the green does when power is applied to the CID. I'm wondering if I do have a bad CID box.


Is there anyone that would be willing to send me a good CID box so I can try? I have a excellent feedback everywhere you look. I will pay for shipping both ways. It seems like my boards are good, but it is the CID with problems.


My voltage is 13.5 and drops to 12.3 when the lights are on.


Without spending a bunch of money on boards that may not be the problem, I'm not sure what else to do.


Jordan,TCFD