Auto Eject / Shoreline power / Cab heater / etc. Questions

[Fighting17th]

Ok so I know this is a bit overkill, but I decided to add a shoreline Auto-eject system and battery charger to my POV pickup, a 2006 F150 extended cab. The plan is for it to maintain the battery, run a few small equipment chargers such as a Streamlight(s) and portable radio, and hopefully run an engine block heater as well as a thermostat-controlled cab heater.

I've already purchased the Auto-Eject Super kit. I've heard they're not the best for vehicles stored outside, but I'm not too concerned with how long it lasts, plus just like at my FD, I have the habit of always unplugging the truck before it ejects itself anyway. Also, I'm not concerned with drilling the holes in the bed, since there is already some rust around my gas tank area, I figure I'll just add the auto eject to the same body panel.

This leads me to several questions:

1. If I would decide to also add one of the Kussmaul battery charge indicator panels, can they withstand the weather of being kept outside year-round, or should I keep it on the inside? Especially if I find a deal on the one without the "weatherproof" bezel.

2. What battery charger would be best for my application? I can get a used Kussmaul 1200 on ebay for about $70-100 before shipping. I've also seen very good reviews on the Progressive Dynamics line of products. Remember, this is for a POV not a fleet vehicle, so cost is a factor. Reliability isn't necessarily as important as long as it doesn't start a fire. I will not be buying a brand new Kussmaul charger.

2b. If I do go with a non-Kussmaul brand, such as the progressive dynamics, can a Kussmaul battery level indicator be added just as easily?

3. Is there any SMALL 110v heaters out there that would work for an extended cab F-150? I usually keep all of my gear, medical bags, flashlights, etc. taking up the entire back seat during the winter when snow ice and cold makes it better than keeping all of that stuff in my toolboxes, so floor mounting in the rear is not really an option. I'm looking for something that can permanently, or temporarily for the winter, be mounted somewhere on the dash, near the glove box area, passenger seat floor, passenger side of the console, roof, back window area, etc.

Thanks in advance for any help or advice!

John

 

[Steve0625]

3. Is there any SMALL 110v heaters out there that would work for an extended cab F-150? I usually keep all of my gear, medical bags, flashlights, etc. taking up the entire back seat during the winter when snow ice and cold makes it better than keeping all of that stuff in my toolboxes, so floor mounting in the rear is not really an option. I'm looking for something that can permanently, or temporarily for the winter, be mounted somewhere on the dash, near the glove box area, passenger seat floor, passenger side of the console, roof, back window area, etc.

As far back as the mid-1970's we were building EMS fly cars for use in upstate and western New York. At the time, we were required to keep the fluids, etc. in a locked box in the locked vehicle. We solved the problem by using standard residential 1500 watt space heaters, readily available at most stores like Target, etc. We laid down a plywood floor in the back of the station wagon and bolted the space heater to that leaving plenty of space all around. It worked great.

I'd suggest you get a piece of 1/2" CDX plywood, cut it to the shape of the passenger side floor so it lays flat and can't slide around. Buy one of those little 1500 watt ceramic cube heaters and bolt it to the center of the floor. You should be able to run it on low and keep everything in the cab plenty warm enough. Just make sure that there is nothing close to the heater that could cause a fire.

If you're running a block heater and the space heater plus chargers, you may run into some power draw issues. The average 15 amp residential circuit may end up over loaded and trip the breaker whenever the space heater kicks in. I'd suggest planning on a 20 amp circuit. That will mean a heaver shore line and possibly a different model of Kussmaul. I'm not familiar with them, but if they come in various power ratings, a 15 amp one likely won't cut it. You'll also want to use the right wire to feed the block heater and the space heater.

 

[wilsonbr90]

That may have worked in that situation but it only takes 1 pile of clothes to fall in front of the heater and you have a molten mess of vehichle. Why not install a Heater for the coolant. This way you hop in and you instantly have heat. You didn't state if it was necesarry to keep liquids from freezing. If so I would look in to 12v dash mounted window defroster. Hardwire it in with a thermostat and a relay so when you turn you vehicle on it shuts off. They draw 10a@12v. As long as you get a proper charger you should be set.

 

[NPS Ranger]

I'm not concerned with drilling the holes in the bed, since there is already some rust around my gas tank area, I figure I'll just add the auto eject to the same body panel.

There's always the chance this problem will solve itself, given enough time.  Just sayin.