AWL RX-46 Traffic Advisor

Cf1k1

Member
Jun 4, 2013
16
Florida
Good Morning!


Although I'm rather new here based on post count, I've been browsing since June, and first, y'all have been incredible with the guidance you have given others which has helped me in my lighting endeavors. Now, to the meat. I've been looking for a TA for the rear of my Jeep. While Whelen is great, it's way above my price point. Every now and then I'll see some nice Whelen Super LED bars pop up that come with the TACTRL1A on eBay for incredible prices, sadly, it always happens when the funds aren't there (what can I say? I'm a college student balling on a budget LOL!). I messaged Tom from AWL back and fourth on here a bit about his RX-46 that is right size for my interior (and you can't beat the price point and the reviews AWL/Tom get on eLightbars). Unfortunately, he told me that his supplier no longer manufactures the AWL TA control head but did inform me that any positively switched control head will work. Now I know, Google is my friend as is the search function on here, but I have been unable to turn up anything. So, in short, I'm looking for a TA controller that will also do flash patterns, that is positively switched and will work with RX-46 and I figured I'd rack your brain's a little bit this AM. Any help or guidance? Thanks!
 
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Cf1k1

Member
Jun 4, 2013
16
Florida
Wow, it'd be good if I posted this in the visual section. Probably why I'll be living in a van down by the river... self-reported to move to the right section.
 

invisble ink

Member
Jun 17, 2010
127
Old Bridge, NJ
The TA functions don't need a control head. Its really a three switch setup:


Switch 1: turns on bar in warning mode to whatever flash pattern you set it to...


i.e. on-on-off-off-on-on ---> off-off-on-on-off-off (inner-outer) or on-off-on-off-on-off ---> off-on-off-on-off-on


Switch 2: activates left arrow (disables warning patterns when on)


Switch 3: activates right arrow (disables warning patterns when on)


Switch 2 + 3: activates center out


turn off switch 2, 3 or 2 + 3 and it'll go back to warning pattern until switch 1 is turned off.


You don't need a control head like the Whelen TACTRL1A, besides the TACTRL1A wouldn't work anyway due to the way the wiring is. The Whelen TACTRL1A uses 8 wires to control the TA and the AWL bar uses 2. If you wanted to use a controller you would need something like the TADCTL1 but I don't think that would be recommended.
 
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Cf1k1

Member
Jun 4, 2013
16
Florida
invisble ink said:
The TA functions don't need a control head. Its really a three switch setup:

Switch 1: turns on bar in warning mode to whatever flash pattern you set it to...


i.e. on-on-off-off-on-on ---> off-off-on-on-off-off (inner-outer) or on-off-on-off-on-off ---> off-on-off-on-off-on


Switch 2: activates left arrow (disables warning patterns when on)


Switch 3: activates right arrow (disables warning patterns when on)


Switch 2 + 3: activates center out


turn off switch 2, 3 or 2 + 3 and it'll go back to warning pattern until switch 1 is turned off.


You don't need a control head like the Whelen TACTRL1A, besides the TACTRL1A wouldn't work anyway due to the way the wiring is. The Whelen TACTRL1A uses 8 wires to control the TA and the AWL bar uses 2. If you wanted to use a controller you would need something like the TADCTL1 but I don't think that would be recommended.

Hmm... never even thought of the three switch setup. I guess I just liked the idea of the control heads. I was trying to over think the wiring and was trying to figure out how to get power to both wires at the same time... guess activating both switches would work too for center out lol. Now if I wanted to just activate the bar for say, left arrow, I could just activate switch 2 and leave switch 1 off correct?


***


I just looked at their wiring chart again. I think it would need a 4 switch box with one switch being the master power which sends power to the red wire in the RX. Then switches 2,3,4 will act as above, respectfully. Now, if the master switch is activated (switch 1), nothing should happen since the signal wires aren't having power sent to them...
 

invisble ink

Member
Jun 17, 2010
127
Old Bridge, NJ
No switch one needs to be on as it actually activates the bar. It doesn't power it but its like a roof lightbar, the power cable feeds power to it and other wires activate the functions i.e. 1 wire activates corner leds, another takedowns, another alleys, etc. This particular bar without switch one on nothing will flash even arrows.
 

Cf1k1

Member
Jun 4, 2013
16
Florida
invisble ink said:
No switch one needs to be on as it actually activates the bar. It doesn't power it but its light a roof lightbar, the power cable feeds it and other wires activate the functions.

See my edit above. But, based on this statement, the red wire (main power) from the RX and the yellow wire (activates flash/warning patterns) would have to powered at the same time at switch 1.
 

invisble ink

Member
Jun 17, 2010
127
Old Bridge, NJ
You can wire the red (+) and the brown (warning mode) into one switch and it'll power the bar and activate warning mode at the same time. I have this particular bar and mine the red (+) is fused and wired into my wiring coming from my battery to my switch box and the brown wire (warning mode) is on switch, orange (left arrow) is on another switch, blue (right arrow) is on a third switch and I have the green wire hooked up for super flash (a rapid checker board pattern). If you have a programmable switch box like a Cencom you can program it to left arrow, center out, right arrow on separate buttons.


*** sorry miss read the post...the yellow wire is used to change the patterns similar to the scanlock function on a Whelen bar. Tapping it to + will scroll you through the different patterns programmed into the flasher unit of the bar.
 

JohnMarcson

Administrator
May 7, 2010
10,971
Northwest Ohio
There are two basic types of arrow bars.


The "old" type require an external controller "brain" because they are simply lightheads wired to be switch by ground or power. In some cases they are even strobes, but they still require a traffic advisor capable power supply and control.


These are discussed here: http://elightbars.org/forums/f13/traffic-advisor-arrow-signal-master-etc-info-thread-35771/#post297435


The other type is self contained bars, which are almost exclusively LED. They have internal "brains", and modes are activated by a single wire. As someone stated above, this is generally a wire each for left, right and warn. Center out is often activated by applying power to both the left and right wire at the same time.


The bar you are discussing should be the newer self contained type. How you apply power to the wires for varies functions is up to you. I like to use push buttons next to each other with a little arrow above each. That way when they are both on the label is still correct.


Here is a mock up of how I do these sometimes.


8262s.jpg


1 - Master


2- Warn


3- Left


4- Right


with many bars


3 and 4 = center out


2 overrides any combo of 3 or 4
 

Cf1k1

Member
Jun 4, 2013
16
Florida
invisble ink said:
You can wire the red (+) and the brown (warning mode) into one switch and it'll power the bar and activate warning mode at the same time. I have this particular bar and mine the red (+) is fused and wired into my wiring coming from my battery to my switch box and the brown wire (warning mode) is on switch, orange (left arrow) is on another switch, blue (right arrow) is on a third switch and I have the green wire hooked up for super flash (a rapid checker board pattern). If you have a programmable switch box like a Cencom you can program it to left arrow, center out, right arrow on separate buttons.


*** sorry miss read the post...the yellow wire is used to change the patterns similar to the scanlock function on a Whelen bar. Tapping it to + will scroll you through the different patterns programmed into the flasher unit of the bar.

You're right. I just quickly read through the wire codings. Brown activates the warning pattern. So, your red wire has power always being applied to it? If so, then you shouldn't have to activate switch one based on the wiring diagram. BUT, if Brown/Red are spliced into each other, then in that case switch one would have to be activated to give power to the light AND activate it. I'm looking more for a Master, then the switches following respectively (like what is below). With your current wiring setup, does that mean if you want center out, the warning switch, left arrow, and right arrow ALL have to be activated?

JohnMarcson said:
There are two basic types of arrow bars.

The "old" type require an external controller "brain" because they are simply lightheads wired to be switch by ground or power. In some cases they are even strobes, but they still require a traffic advisor capable power supply and control.


These are discussed here: http://elightbars.org/forums/f13/traffic-advisor-arrow-signal-master-etc-info-thread-35771/#post297435


The other type is self contained bars, which are almost exclusively LED. They have internal "brains", and modes are activated by a single wire. As someone stated above, this is generally a wire each for left, right and warn. Center out is often activated by applying power to both the left and right wire at the same time.


The bar you are discussing should be the newer self contained type. How you apply power to the wires for varies functions is up to you. I like to use push buttons next to each other with a little arrow above each. That way when they are both on the label is still correct.


Here is a mock up of how I do these sometimes.


View attachment 62149


1 - Master


2- Warn


3- Left


4- Right


with many bars


3 and 4 = center out


2 overrides any combo of 3 or 4

This is what I'm looking for. Based on the diagram from AWL, it's gonna have to be an internal flasher seeing as though the patterns interact based on when power is applied to them. Now, where to mount a second switch box? :confused: Decisions decisions. Too bad they never made a havis console for the Cherokee.
 

minig0d

Member
Mar 29, 2013
689
LA & TX
If you want to skip the center out feature (which I personally find pointless unless you plan on blocking a middle lane of traffic and want cars to flow around you)(again rarely used) you can get away with just two switches. One will turn on the main power and warning mode simultaneously as described above and for the other just use a 2 way switch with a center off. Leaving it centered it'll be in warning mode and up for the left arrow down for right. Cake! Or if you really wanna get technical they have electronic switches that you could install that will be a momentary switch to toggle through the modes. But id avoid that option. It shouldn't be too hard to empty off one extra spot in your box for it. Or you could just attach one of those two or three switch panels onto your switch box either way if you use a double sided switch (on-off-on) you won't have to worry about 4 switches and figuring out why your left arrow won't come on (because you forgot to turn off the right arrow switch first.)
 

Cf1k1

Member
Jun 4, 2013
16
Florida
minig0d said:
If you want to skip the center out feature (which I personally find pointless unless you plan on blocking a middle lane of traffic and want cars to flow around you)(again rarely used) you can get away with just two switches. One will turn on the main power and warning mode simultaneously as described above and for the other just use a 2 way switch with a center off. Leaving it centered it'll be in warning mode and up for the left arrow down for right. Cake! Or if you really wanna get technical they have electronic switches that you could install that will be a momentary switch to toggle through the modes. But id avoid that option. It shouldn't be too hard to empty off one extra spot in your box for it. Or you could just attach one of those two or three switch panels onto your switch box either way if you use a double sided switch (on-off-on) you won't have to worry about 4 switches and figuring out why your left arrow won't come on (because you forgot to turn off the right arrow switch first.)

Okay so riddle me this then. Hypothetically: Black wire is ground and Red wire is own it's own switch which is the 'master'(1). Then the Brown for warning patterns is on switch (2) and left/right can be on a 2 position switch (3), and should I want center out, it can be switch (4). But, the red and brown DO NOT have to be on the same switch. I could hit master, then left arrow right away. Versus, warning/power then hit left arrow. OR, does the red/brown HAVE to be on the same switch?


Also, I have an axxixtech 6 position box. the last switch is an on/momentary switch. I have yet to take the box apart seeing as though it's installed and I've had no need too Are the connections soldered on the switches or just male/female plugs?
 

minig0d

Member
Mar 29, 2013
689
LA & TX
Cf1k1 said:
Okay so riddle me this then. Hypothetically: Black wire is ground and Red wire is own it's own switch which is the 'master'(1). Then the Brown for warning patterns is on switch (2) and left/right can be on a 2 position switch (3), and should I want center out, it can be switch (4). But, the red and brown DO NOT have to be on the same switch. I could hit master, then left arrow right away. Versus, warning/power then hit left arrow. OR, does the red/brown HAVE to be on the same switch?

Also, I have an axxixtech 6 position box. the last switch is an on/momentary switch. I have yet to take the box apart seeing as though it's installed and I've had no need too Are the connections soldered on the switches or just male/female plugs?

I don't have the bar but you can test this. I'm guessing that if you power the main power wire and the arrow wire the bar won't come on without that warning wire connected. If that's the case there's no reason not to tie main power to warning wire. If it does work and you really care, you could just jump the main power wire to the warning, both arrows, and center out switches to use as you are thinking or at least how I think your thinking. But just test it left arrow wire and main power wire to hot and black to ground and see if arrow comes on without the warning wire. That of course would allow you to flip one switch to turn them on.


I've never seen a switch box with soldered connections personally. I've also never seen the axixtech ones. They usually just have those spade quick disconnects and the switches are usually a fairly common size. Aka pop one out and match it up with a Double sided on-off-on switch.


I guess if the bar DOES WORK in arrow and center out without the warning wire being powered first you could run all the functions off of two on-off-on switches. One switch for either warning-off-center out and the other left arrow-off-right arrow. May not be the easiest to reach down without looking and flip on, but if you were stationary at the scene wouldn't be hard.


I think most people's point with the wire to warning mode is 90% of the time you'll be pulling up to a scene with lights on and they will remain on. But you may want to add that arrow to direct traffic. But rarely will you be in a situation that the arrow is going to be the ONLY light on. So logically it makes more sense to be able to have the warning come on quickly and be able to throw the arrow on on top of it as needed. I mean idk how your switches are setup. But if they are like


1) front leds


2) rear leds


3) HLF


4) TLF


Then just add the warning mode wire to your rear LEDs so they come on with the rest of the LEDs and have switch 5 for center out and 6 as a two way switch for left/right arrow. It makes more logical sense to me. I mean you rarely need individual control over lights. I personally have my HLF and TLF separate from LEDs so I can leave the vehicle off on LEDs only without killing the battery as quick. But really no reason not to bunch some lights together.
 

Cf1k1

Member
Jun 4, 2013
16
Florida
minig0d said:
I don't have the bar but you can test this. I'm guessing that if you power the main power wire and the arrow wire the bar won't come on without that warning wire connected. If that's the case there's no reason not to tie main power to warning wire. If it does work and you really care, you could just jump the main power wire to the warning, both arrows, and center out switches to use as you are thinking or at least how I think your thinking. But just test it left arrow wire and main power wire to hot and black to ground and see if arrow comes on without the warning wire. That of course would allow you to flip one switch to turn them on.

I've never seen a switch box with soldered connections personally. I've also never seen the axixtech ones. They usually just have those spade quick disconnects and the switches are usually a fairly common size. Aka pop one out and match it up with a Double sided on-off-on switch.


I guess if the bar DOES WORK in arrow and center out without the warning wire being powered first you could run all the functions off of two on-off-on switches. One switch for either warning-off-center out and the other left arrow-off-right arrow. May not be the easiest to reach down without looking and flip on, but if you were stationary at the scene wouldn't be hard.


I think most people's point with the wire to warning mode is 90% of the time you'll be pulling up to a scene with lights on and they will remain on. But you may want to add that arrow to direct traffic. But rarely will you be in a situation that the arrow is going to be the ONLY light on. So logically it makes more sense to be able to have the warning come on quickly and be able to throw the arrow on on top of it as needed. I mean idk how your switches are setup. But if they are like


1) front leds


2) rear leds


3) HLF


4) TLF


Then just add the warning mode wire to your rear LEDs so they come on with the rest of the LEDs and have switch 5 for center out and 6 as a two way switch for left/right arrow. It makes more logical sense to me. I mean you rarely need individual control over lights. I personally have my HLF and TLF separate from LEDs so I can leave the vehicle off on LEDs only without killing the battery as quick. But really no reason not to bunch some lights together.

As a matter of fact this just might work. The axixtech box has either a 10/8 gauge wire going to it that is fused to the battery. Then all my LEDS and strobe pack go to the switch box and stop. Of course grounds pull from different places, but the (+) for all of my lights come from the switch box. So, I could just buy two, two position switches for switch 5/6. Switch 5 up would be warning, switch 5 down would be center out. Switch 6 up is left switch 6 down is right. I know I'm repeating but it helps commit to memory lol. I don't necessarily want the TA/Warning to come on with all rear lights. Sometimes, it's just not needed especially in low traffic, night time situations. I've been blinded by the purple array that is given off by PD's bars when the red/blue flash simultaneously at night. For this, I like the separate controls better. I also don't know how the bar will react. If I have all rear lights on, and then go to activate the TA, do the TA patterns override the warning? And here, I post a the picture of the wiring schematic so you see what I mean. Based of the chart, it looks like the red is main power and everything else is just a signal wire.


Also, here's the the way the box is set-up at the moment...


S1: Intersection (both quarter panels up front and the rear glass)


S2: Front LEDs/Dash Lights


S3: Rear LEDs


S4: Strobe Pack for rear


S5: *simple rocker on/off* empty (two position switch would go here: up is warning, down is center-out)


S6: *up is on, down is momentary* empty (two position switch would go here: up is left, down is right)


I just write all the stuff down so when I come back to it, I know what my original idea is. Below is the wiring schematic/chart. The text on the right is where the idea of each wire is a signal wire came from.

Screen Shot 2013-10-17 at 11.48.34 AM.png
 

Tom

Member
Dec 18, 2010
3,083
Taunton, MA
Sorry I'm so late to the party! Not sure if I mentioned it in our PM correspondence or not, but you can use a simple switch panel to accomplish what you're looking to do. For instance, I have the Feniex Haleo 600 switch panel in stock. The only downside with that is it is not enclosed; I'm not sure if you want an actual control box or not.


All of this gets me to thinking; I should make an AWL brand switch panel. Hmm, maybe a 6-10 button switchbox or something :undecided:
 

Cf1k1

Member
Jun 4, 2013
16
Florida
Tom said:
Sorry I'm so late to the party! Not sure if I mentioned it in our PM correspondence or not, but you can use a simple switch panel to accomplish what you're looking to do. For instance, I have the Feniex Haleo 600 switch panel in stock. The only downside with that is it is not enclosed; I'm not sure if you want an actual control box or not.

All of this gets me to thinking; I should make an AWL brand switch panel. Hmm, maybe a 6-10 button switchbox or something :undecided:

You just touched on it but I wasn't too sure how to do it. Now I have been informed properly lol. I still wish you made the TA control box... hint hint, nudge nudge. And yes, I am looking for an enclosed unit since Havis never made a center console for my jeep. Also, can you touch on the above? So long as the red wire has power, all the other colored wires are just signal wires, correct?
 
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minig0d

Member
Mar 29, 2013
689
LA & TX
Tom said:
Sorry I'm so late to the party! Not sure if I mentioned it in our PM correspondence or not, but you can use a simple switch panel to accomplish what you're looking to do. For instance, I have the Feniex Haleo 600 switch panel in stock. The only downside with that is it is not enclosed; I'm not sure if you want an actual control box or not.

All of this gets me to thinking; I should make an AWL brand switch panel. Hmm, maybe a 6-10 button switchbox or something :undecided:

Yes you should since they are apparently pretty hard to come by when you'd think they'd be super common... get ya an AWL brand switch box too while your at it :)
 

minig0d

Member
Mar 29, 2013
689
LA & TX
Cf1k1 said:
As a matter of fact this just might work. The axixtech box has either a 10/8 gauge wire going to it that is fused to the battery. Then all my LEDS and strobe pack go to the switch box and stop. Of course grounds pull from different places, but the (+) for all of my lights come from the switch box. So, I could just buy two, two position switches for switch 5/6. Switch 5 up would be warning, switch 5 down would be center out. Switch 6 up is left switch 6 down is right. I know I'm repeating but it helps commit to memory lol. I don't necessarily want the TA/Warning to come on with all rear lights. Sometimes, it's just not needed especially in low traffic, night time situations. I've been blinded by the purple array that is given off by PD's bars when the red/blue flash simultaneously at night. For this, I like the separate controls better. I also don't know how the bar will react. If I have all rear lights on, and then go to activate the TA, do the TA patterns override the warning? And here, I post a the picture of the wiring schematic so you see what I mean. Based of the chart, it looks like the red is main power and everything else is just a signal wire.

Also, here's the the way the box is set-up at the moment...


S1: Intersection (both quarter panels up front and the rear glass)


S2: Front LEDs/Dash Lights


S3: Rear LEDs


S4: Strobe Pack for rear


S5: *simple rocker on/off* empty (two position switch would go here: up is warning, down is center-out)


S6: *up is on, down is momentary* empty (two position switch would go here: up is left, down is right)


I just write all the stuff down so when I come back to it, I know what my original idea is. Below is the wiring schematic/chart. The text on the right is where the idea of each wire is a signal wire came from.

Sounds like a plan... but why have intersection on its own switch? I mean yeah you may not need as much lighting on scene or something but it really doesn't hurt anything (and it may actually help you from getting hit while people are maneuvering equipment around and such *shrug*... but yeah that would definitely work... I mean personally I don't see a reason to keep the RX46's warning mode off of S3 with the rest of your rear lighting... again, its not like you have super excessive amounts of lighting and some extra warning is going to blind anyone...
 

Cf1k1

Member
Jun 4, 2013
16
Florida
minig0d said:
Sounds like a plan... but why have intersection on its own switch? I mean yeah you may not need as much lighting on scene or something but it really doesn't hurt anything (and it may actually help you from getting hit while people are maneuvering equipment around and such *shrug*... but yeah that would definitely work... I mean personally I don't see a reason to keep the RX46's warning mode off of S3 with the rest of your rear lighting... again, its not like you have super excessive amounts of lighting and some extra warning is going to blind anyone...

Intersectors are own their own switch because I originally outfitted the vehicle when I was doing deliveries. Can't even tell you how many times I've stepped out and almost been hit. I would only use the intersectors when on a T intersection or a 4 way intersection at a house. I didn't want to light up the entire neighborhood when it's 2130 at night. Also, now that I'm into offroad recovery with the vehicle (mostly by word of mouth people find out I have a capable vehicle) and doing escorts (my buddy does the uship stuff and sometimes prefers the extra lighting), I find that I'm using the intersectors a lot more. And in terms of having everything on their own switch, I enjoy as much control over the lighting as possible; maybe it's my OCD kicking in. Besides, I can always rewire at the box. Doesn't take more than a few minutes. This is the reason why I never looked at the control/amplifiers with the three stage lighting switch. I'm currently working on my First Responder Cert with Florida State which uses their own vehicles.
 
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Jul 4, 2013
49
Southeast Wisconsin
I've been doing some looking into this bar and Tom actually has some really reasonably priced switches on his site. On a side note, I have a blazer which seems to have a similar tint in the back so if you could let me know how it looks I'd really appreciate it. I'mreally interested in this particular bar, eespecially after talking to Tom a bit and seeing what a good guy he is, just a little worried about that tint. Good luck.
 

minig0d

Member
Mar 29, 2013
689
LA & TX
Cf1k1 said:
Intersectors are own their own switch because I originally outfitted the vehicle when I was doing deliveries. Can't even tell you how many times I've stepped out and almost been hit. I would only use the intersectors when on a T intersection or a 4 way intersection at a house. I didn't want to light up the entire neighborhood when it's 2130 at night. Also, now that I'm into offroad recovery with the vehicle (mostly by word of mouth people find out I have a capable vehicle) and doing escorts (my buddy does the uship stuff and sometimes prefers the extra lighting), I find that I'm using the intersectors a lot more. And in terms of having everything on their own switch, I enjoy as much control over the lighting as possible; maybe it's my OCD kicking in. Besides, I can always rewire at the box. Doesn't take more than a few minutes. This is the reason why I never looked at the control/amplifiers with the three stage lighting switch. I'm currently working on my First Responder Cert with Florida State which uses their own vehicles.

If you are OCD and want maximum control just get one of the prefabbed TD switch panels and call it a day. I mean that's the "right" way to do it. And as far as lighting up the whole neighborhood can't be "nice" and safe at the same time. Perfect example is those backup alarms. (Beep when you put the vehicle in reverse. Annoying as hell to people around you but they do it for the safety reason.
 

Cf1k1

Member
Jun 4, 2013
16
Florida
minig0d said:
If you are OCD and want maximum control just get one of the prefabbed TD switch panels and call it a day. I mean that's the "right" way to do it. And as far as lighting up the whole neighborhood can't be "nice" and safe at the same time. Perfect example is those backup alarms. (Beep when you put the vehicle in reverse. Annoying as hell to people around you but they do it for the safety reason.

And you're right with the nice and safe. However, the intersector lights are originally offroad lights that have the ability to flash and go steady. The company makes both a flash/steady and just a steady. They put out about 600 lumens a piece. When you say a prefabbed TD panel, did you mean TA? If so, thats what my original question was until someone said it would just be easier to use a switchbox. What company makes a TA controller that would work with the RX46?
 

minig0d

Member
Mar 29, 2013
689
LA & TX
Cf1k1 said:
And you're right with the nice and safe. However, the intersector lights are originally offroad lights that have the ability to flash and go steady. The company makes both a flash/steady and just a steady. They put out about 600 lumens a piece. When you say a prefabbed TD panel, did you mean TA? If so, thats what my original question was until someone said it would just be easier to use a switchbox. What company makes a TA controller that would work with the RX46?

Here's a couple options for you:


On this one look at the switch picture under the images tab... This one would probably be my top choice


http://www.strobesnmore.com/Strobes-N-More-Dual-Color-E66-Super-LED.html


I don't really support led outfitters but this panel looks pretty nice too


Traffic Advisor Switch Panel [XTA4SWTC] - $19.99 : Emergency Warning LED, Halogen and Strobe Lights, Flashers, Sirens, Speakers, Switch Panels, Controllers, Police, Fire and EMS Supplies


I don't really have time to look it up but this one MAY work for you as well, definitely not as cheap as the previous two but it looks professional (I'm sure someone else can chime in or a review of the manual would show if this just uses regular switches/outputs or some weird type of controller system...


Whelen Dominator Traffic Advisor Controller TADCTL1 | FREE Shipping Over $99!


I'm sure there are others out there those are just the first three I saw in google images... Personally I have a Whelen HHS2200 handheld siren which has programmable buttons so you can program one of the buttons for TA functions if you wanted (and it has led indicators of direction as well on it)... but that would obviously be a very expensive solution...


And as far as doing it even cheaper, you could of course just buy a switch panel like one of the first two listed for half the price but then it wont have the markings on it. I'd say the $20 is worth it just to have it look nice and neat if you weren't going to throw it on your existing switch box. Personally I'd just put it on your existing one to keep the controls nice and compact. You're not in a emergency vehicle with a dedicated full console so you don't really need 100 different switch panels and radio controls etc pointed in every direction :) Assuming you have a regular name brand switch box currently, you should already have or could get from a member on here some legends (labels) to make it look nice on your existing box...


There are also a number of electronic switches such as this one, but again going a bit overboard:


br-990-2.jpg
 

DJIceman97

Member
Dec 22, 2012
357
Northeast Kentucky
I just built my own. Used a standard rocker switch for rear power, then a two-position switch for left/right.


Then again, my whole wiring job was makeshift and temporary. I plan on purchasing a console and siren/light controller soon.


IMG_7303.jpg
 

minig0d

Member
Mar 29, 2013
689
LA & TX
DJIceman97 said:
I just built my own. Used a standard rocker switch for rear power, then a two-position switch for left/right.

Then again, my whole wiring job was makeshift and temporary. I plan on purchasing a console and siren/light controller soon.


View attachment 62324

And a custom built radio holder too! J/k
 

DJIceman97

Member
Dec 22, 2012
357
Northeast Kentucky
minig0d said:
And a custom built radio holder too! J/k

Haha, actually I was using super heavy duty double-sided tape to hold my siren on, but the cold caused it to fail, so I gave up the ghost and drilled two holes to mount it, same place. Doesn't work too bad, and they were small screws, so barely noticeable.
 

minig0d

Member
Mar 29, 2013
689
LA & TX
DJIceman97 said:
Haha, actually I was using super heavy duty double-sided tape to hold my siren on, but the cold caused it to fail, so I gave up the ghost and drilled two holes to mount it, same place. Doesn't work too bad, and they were small screws, so barely noticeable.

I meant the handheld in the cup holder lol
 

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