Code 3 LP6000

Stampeed Valkyrie

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Jun 18, 2013
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Wrapping up my latest acquistions, I present a Code 3 LP6000 with some heavily yellowed domes.
Interesting thing is this is the long speaker grille version, so LP6000 long. Kind of uncommon.
It is outfitted with 1 stingray, that works at least as of this moment.

Departments only using 1 function of the 3 functions was very common, with this one wired to be front sweep.

Rain interrupted me today otherwise I would have probably started tinkering..

LP6000clearstart.jpg

LP6000clearstart2.jpg
 
The Yellow is strong on this one, I am probably going to need to wetsand these domes.
 
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The Yellow is strong on this one, I am probably going to need to wetsand these domes.

I too have an LP6000 and came across your thread just now. My thread is here:


As for the clear domes and cleaning, I would recommend (2) products that should work without having to wet sand and go that tedious route.

The first product is this:
3M Headlight Lens Restoration System, 39008, 1 Kit, Drill Required, Red https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001AIZ5HY/?tag=elightbars-20

I have used that above kit to restore many yellowed and/or hazed headlight assemblies and it works extremely well with excellent results. Very easy to do and instructions are easy too.

The 2nd item is:
Meguiar's PlastX Clear Plastic Polish, Fast & Easy Clear Plastic Restorer for Headlights, Taillights, Soft Top Windows, and More, Remove Scratches, Cloudiness, Yellowing, and Oxidation, 10 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000AY3SR/?tag=elightbars-20

Again that will do the job perfectly on many types of plastics, acrylics, lexan, lenses etc. with great results.
 
These domes needed more work then just a polish with some plastix unfortunately.
I was able to test out some sanding discs for the power drill, seems to have done pretty well. I have 1 down, with 1 to go.
 
So here are the end results of the experiment.

Both got the same polish and buff treatment, except 1 got wetsanded. Care to take a guess?
The indoor lighting and the camera are harsh to these, as they both look better then the camera shows, but both would be acceptable to me for what is coming next.

lp6000cleardomes.jpg
 
When the oxidized plastic layer is thick, you have to start with wet sanding.
 
Excellent results! Did you wet sand outside and inside or just outside?
Outside, I've never had to wetsand the inside, typically because the UV exposure and damage is just about always outside.

My DOH moment is looking at this picture, and taking notice that the background of the Kitchen is Yellow and it makes them look worse.. lol
 
So I've torn it apart, and I have some questions about the stingray. I am gonna go look at my other ones to see if I can answer these myself.

The diode on one of the contacts broke apart. Anyone have a model or specs I can cross reference.
Also there are 2 metal contacts connectors. I had to remove in order to unmount the rotator. Is there a specific location or placement for these bare wire contacts on the rotator?

Yeah that sounds confusing.. let me get a picture.
 
So I've torn it apart, and I have some questions about the stingray. I am gonna go look at my other ones to see if I can answer these myself.

The diode on one of the contacts broke apart. Anyone have a model or specs I can cross reference.
Also there are 2 metal contacts connectors. I had to remove in order to unmount the rotator. Is there a specific location or placement for these bare wire contacts on the rotator?

Yeah that sounds confusing.. let me get a picture.
The color bands on the resistor will tell you it's specs. If yours is too faded or broken to see, send me a PM and I can dig out one of mine to look.

Those 2 wires on the plastic clips just tell the controller when the reflector is at it's point to reverse direction. Worst is that you would put them on backwards and the front becomes the rear. They just clip back in pkace.
 
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The color bands on the resistor will tell you it's specs. If yours is too faded or broken to see, send me a PM and I can dig out one of mine to look.

Those 2 wires on the plastic clips just tell the controller when the reflector is at it's point to reverse direction. Worst is that you would put them on backwards and the front becomes the rear. They just clip back in pkace.
Diode, not the resister. I still need to get a picture, but there are 2 contact points on the back of the motor bridged by what appears to be a ceramic capacitor. The one diode is still present, but no noticable marks or markings to cross reference. The other is missing since it self destructed, the only reason why I took notice is because the wire was just hanging loose.

Once I replace the diode, it should be good again, so long as I got the tv antennas right.. lol
 
I still need to get a picture, but there are 2 contact points on the back of the motor bridged by what appears to be a ceramic capacitor. The one diode is still present, but no noticable marks or markings to cross reference. The other is missing since it self destructed, the only reason why I took notice is because the wire was just hanging loose.
Does it look like this?
XL Stingray (#3 ) Set -01a.JPG

These are just small plastic tubes as insulation.
Diodes would be rather annoying at this point, since the change of the direction of rotation is done by reversing the polarity.
 
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Had the same thing on a FedSig Visibeam - just soldered it back on and done.
IMG_3765a.JPG

I don't know why they did it that way.
 
Wait so its not a Diode? looks like a diode and has some writing.

OK if that is the case then I can fix this pretty easily.

@Benno many thanks,

Rob
 
I have one of these, easily the best shape bar I have. Got it at a local VFD that were going to toss it, along with my mx7000. Mine is red and I know it's longer than an average 48 inch, 52 inch possibly. Mine looks to have the long grill too, bit no stingray, just 4 slow rotators. It has red domes.

I'll take a video of it if you want.
 

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