I have a Code 3 MX-7000 Lightbar 48" that I want to wire up to be used in my house. I know I'm gonna need some type of transformer, but not sure what type or where I can get it from. Can anyone give me a hand with this? Thanks!
Code 3 - MX 7000 Lightbar Question
- Thread starter stok2
- Start date
toon80
Member
TritonBoulder47
Member
MtnMan
Member
Keep in mind that a loaded MX-7000 with rotators is going to pull about 50 amps. A "wall wart" adapter from Radio Shack isn't going to do it.
MtnMan said:
Replace them with #93 bulb. Look them up at light bulbs unlimited.com. They give the same punch, but at a 1/3 the power draw.
I have a computer power supply that is 850watt output. Is it possible to just cutoff the pin connector and splice this into the wires of the light and then just plug into the wall?
EHFD_Tower_751
Member
stok2 said:
You could............but you will probaly have alot of smoke and hear the bulbs bursting
MtnMan
Member
Most computer supplies have a +12V output (usually the yellow wire), but it won't provide sufficient amps for all the lights.stok2 said:
More info here: http://www.letu.edu/people/joelkoblich/Tech_Tips/PC%20Power%20Supplies/Tips%20on%20Using%20a%20PC%20Power%20Supply%20for%20Projects.pdf
stok2 said:
Not all of that 850 watts is delivered to the +12v DC rail. Typically 10% to 20% of a power supply's rated output is derived from the wattage available on the +5v DC rail, and, to a lesser extent, the +3.3v DC rail. I suspect your power supply's label will indicate the actual wattage available on the +12v DC rail. Look closely.
Just a question, what options are you running. I have a MX that has the 4 rotators, lower FF and RF and I-sects. It only pulls around 10 amps with the #97 bulbs I mentioned above. A computer power supply could handle that.
toon80
Member
MtnMan said:
I did this very project, using this very page quoted above. Works well, but I' say that anything bigger than 20 amps will be too much. I have fried one with my MX7000 (4 rotators, 4 flashers, Intersect. sweepers)
My other one is protected if I ask too much out of it, but still, for an MX7000, I would suggest a battery. Browse the thread I quoted for pros and cons of the different solutions regarding 12V power supplies, chargers, and batteries.
A computer power supply will work well for beacons or minibars, but that's about it.
I'd just get a relatively inexpensive "jumper box" at Sears, etc. The box is rechargeable and will provide plenty of power for a short amount of time. Just don't use a battery charger as that can permanently damage the lightbar.
Skip Goulet said:
This will work for quick on/off but i was thinking aboout plugging it in to a wall out that is on a remote switch, so i can flip it on when at any point.....still trying to figure this out.
toon80
Member
I think a battery will be the cheapest solution. It drains, yes, but you should get ample time for your needs. Get sealed batteries and observe battery safety.
Batterystuff.com
Model Pm3-100LK
100 AMP CAPIAPLE
$174.00 is what I paid
It operates my FS Vector/ Code3 MX70000/ And my FS Areohawk
Ta2dResqr
Member
A 93 bulb is only 550 lumens. A 97 bulb is a little better at 650 lumens. A (S)795 bulb is 1357 lumens. For the same amount of light and reducing power consumption, I would recommend a high end LED bulb. It will need to be a BA15S base. The easiest is an 1156. Next you need to check lumens. The company I prefer is JDM Astar. Since the pandemic, they only sell on Amazon. There bulbs are around 1500 lumens depending on which model. They are rated at up to 50w but operate at 10w. This is even less than the 93 bulb (13.3w). This means more light and less power. Final thing to be aware of, order the color of light that your lens is if using a colored lens (red - red, amber - amber, clear - any). Only change I saw with this was that the motors tend to move a little bit faster because they have more power available.