Hey Joe.
I just picked up a V-Con & have been investigating the wiring differences between models..
Now, if I understand correctly, you want to run one siren only model & one L4 siren/light model?
After seeing the manual, I can see why you pose this question, as the V-con L4 model alone wants 3 fused inputs all by itself. Then add an additional Basic Siren model & you've got quite a few B(+) terminations at your battery. Then there's all your lighting outputs & you've got a boat load of wiring passing through your firewall. However, that's kinda par for the course with these types of interior installs as your running all your controls & lighting power sources from inside the cabin.
Personally, what i would do to reduce my battery connections is..
- I would do a quick calculation of the maximum current needed to run both units at their max.
- Once that is known, I would use whatever cable gauge safely supports the total current at whatever length the battery run ends up being. (Length = both B(+) & B(-) legs of your run).
- From there, I would make one single power run into the cab, find a discrete/hidden area & then Buss/Branch/Fuse it out from there.
There are many many products available on the web that will allow you to do this in a clean manner.
You could simply splice 4 inline fuse pigtails off that main run, but you'll need crimpers large enough to manage your main 8ga-6ga run + 1/10ga & 3/12ga connections stuffed into a single 4ga butt splice. (The above adds up to around 4ga when all combined in a splice).
If you can't make terminations that large, you could use a power distro post & stack your inline fuse pigtails off that. You could also use the same type of distro post for your ground run/s (These things are a dime a dozen on Amazon/Ebay & come in many different styles & current ratings).
You could also simply just use a small internally bussed fuse block & branch out from there. Basically any block that will accept a ring terminal from your main feed. You may even find a fuse block that has ground distro on it too, to keep things as centralized as possible (Again, dime a dozen on Amazon/Ebay).
Idk if you've ever heard of them but, Egis Mobile Electronics makes some pretty trick stuff. Intelligent/Timed fuse blocks, Timer modules, High Current relays, Bussed connectorized splitter modules. It's really top notch stuff.
You also got Delphi/Aptiv fuse modules, Gep Power Products, Littelfuse, Eaton, Bussmann, etc.
I don't know what you got going on under your hood, but since you specifically addressed the dislike of having a bunch of messy battery connections, Littelfuse makes some pretty cool battery terminals that are able to be fused. There is a couple useful battery product series, BMZ, BMZF, BMVZ, SMZ. They all use the Z-case fusing design. (Beware different through bolt sizes use different Z-Case fuse part numbers).
(I'm a big fan of OEM wiring components. I like my wiring to look like it came with the vehicle, not so much just for looks, but because I know the stuff will last forever when terminated & executed professionally.)
