Custom Wiring 2 Whelen Avengers

[JohnFireFan]

How can I wire 2 Whelen Dual Avengers, all synced, but on two separate switches?


We want to put the outer red LEDs on 1 switch and the amber and blue LEDs on the 2 switch. How is this possible without using an external flasher? Is there anyway to wire the red LEDs to one Avenger and the amber and blue LEDs to the other Avenger?


My bud wants to do the 2 Whelen Dual Avengers instead of 4 Whelen Single Avengers, he thinks his rear window would be "cluttered", which I guess it would be.

 

[Tom]

The short answer is that you can't without heavily modifying the lights. You can't activate only half of a dual avenger.


The easiest way to achieve what you're looking to do would be to get four single sync avengers. The cost wouldn't be justifiable IMHO

 

[Flashguy]

This thread talks about all the ways possible to sync two slimlighters:


http://elightbars.org/forums/f13/slimlighter-bypassing-internal-flasher-42169/


They also linked other threads that discuss all the wiring, I'd assume its the same with the Avengers. I'd just buy the 4 singles myself...

 

[Flashguy]

The short answer is that you can't without heavily modifying the lights. You can't activate only half of a dual avenger.

I THINK if he wires it up the way he describes, only one dual avenger will have power at a time. The light heads are just mounted in the same dual unit, but only one is actually receiving its power from the other unit.


Light head 1 (power from plug one) light head 2 (power from plug 2.) Then opposite in the other unit. It'd require some wire work, soldering and minor mod to the casing....but I guess if its what he wants, it's doable.

 

[TACKLEBERRY]

Unless he 'just has to have Whelen', tell him to purchase 2 single light head dual color SOS nForces. It will take up even less room. He can get a blue/red and an amber/red. You can have them flash just one color or you could have them flash both colors.

 

[calebsheltonmed23]

You can do it, but like what has been said, it's extensive wiring work... You would have to take the red driver module and run the wire for it to the pass. flasher and disconnect the amber head and use that flasher for the reds (pass. flasher), then take the amber module and run it's wire to the driver's side flasher output where the red used to be. Then you would run a power wire from each side (one +12V for red, one +12V for B/A) to your switches. I've never done it to an avenger, but I have done it to a K/O dual light set up for a pal of mine.


I would strongly suggest to buy either 4 singles, or find some other solution. Due to the fact of how expensive avengers are (IMO), and what you would do would void the warranty, and if it works, it looks great, but if not...well, we know what the magic smoke is. Good luck though!!

 

[ERM]

If he wants them all synced, it's doable. There will be some modification involved, but it is very doable. Let me know his intentions and I'll provide more detail.


Tony

 

[JohnFireFan]

If he wants them all synced, it's doable. There will be some modification involved, but it is very doable. Let me know his intentions and I'll provide more detail.

Tony

Thanks to everyone who has responded to this thread. With all of these comments in mind he still wants to go through with the Whelen Dual Avenger setup. He wants the red LEDs on the driver's side flasher and the blue/amber LEDs on the passenger's side flasher. He wants the red LEDs on a comet flash pattern (triple/quad flash) and the blue/amber LEDs on a slower wigwag pattern. He has the one Whelen Dual Avenger in r/b but now he needs one in r/a. If anyone knows of someone selling a new or lightly used Whelen Dual Avenger in r/a let me know.


If anyone has anymore information on how to go through with wiring them together we would appreciate any help.


Thanks.


*Sidenote: The Whelen Dual Avenger he has is a cigarette model and not the syncable type. If anyone knows where he can buy them let us know. He wants them sync'd but as long as the each color combo is sync'd that is fine. (ex: red with red, amber with blue)

 

[Storm4200]

whats the reasoning for the separate switching? just curious...

 

[JohnFireFan]

whats the reasoning for the separate switching? just curious...

He just wants 360 lighting on priority one and all lights on priority two.


Level 1 - Red LEDs


Level 2 - Add Blue and Amber to rear only


Level 3 - Add Flashing TD and AL

 

[Eric1249]

I am curious to see how it works out. I don't think I would risk trashing one. or even two Avengers.

 

[Storm4200]

The Easiest way to achieve what he wants, in my opinion is:


Sell the red/blue avenger.


Buy 4 single TIR6s. Mount them to a piece of metal and paint it black. With these, you could sync the red/red, and you could sync the B/A, and you could sync them all together. It would be able to be independently switched, and the TIR optics would be better to punch through the rear tint on that truck. TIR6s are cheap and you could probably get all 4 just from selling that one avenger that he currently has.


IMO, TIR6s are the way to go.

 

[rwo978]

People answering here, have you actually looked at the interior of an Avenger, or are you just shooting in the dark.... "yeah, should work" :undecided: ....... :ugh: :weird: :hopeless: :duh:


If you truly don't know, don't answer...


OP, Unless you're really good with soldering and small circuitry, you need to go another direction. The insides of an Avenger are basically one big circuit board with both sides/leds mounted to the board, similar to a FedSig Viper. Unless you have a masters degree in micro electronics, it's not going to be worth it. There's no practical way, w/o a ton of work that's completely cost prohibitive, to do what you want.


Go for a different set of lights. Either use singles, or if you truly want the dual headed lights, you could use Slimilighters (search syncing slimlighters) or dual BALLAST talons (passives won't work, the LED heads, while still being changeable and separate from the flasher board, mount to the board with 4 pins). The BALLAST Talons still used wires to connect the separate heads to the boards. However, with either, the 2 flasher boards still won't be syncd, each will still have their own flash patterns. The only way to get individual synced patterns would be to go with syncd lightheads.


:explode: :hissyfit: :rant:

 

[NFD-102]

The Easiest way to achieve what he wants, in my opinion is:

Sell the red/blue avenger.


Buy 4 single TIR6s. Mount them to a piece of metal and paint it black. With these, you could sync the red/red, and you could sync the B/A, and you could sync them all together. It would be able to be independently switched, and the TIR optics would be better to punch through the rear tint on that truck. TIR6s are cheap and you could probably get all 4 just from selling that one avenger that he currently has.


IMO, TIR6s are the way to go.

I agree, I would just put IONS in there instead because it will have a better finished look to it

 

[Storm4200]

The IONs will deff look more finished, but IMO, the TIR6 blows the ION out of the water. Especially behind tint.

 

[rwo978]

The Easiest way to achieve what he wants, in my opinion is:

Sell the red/blue avenger.


Buy 4 single TIR6s. Mount them to a piece of metal and paint it black. With these, you could sync the red/red, and you could sync the B/A, and you could sync them all together. It would be able to be independently switched, and the TIR optics would be better to punch through the rear tint on that truck. TIR6s are cheap and you could probably get all 4 just from selling that one avenger that he currently has.


IMO, TIR6s are the way to go.

Or, if he wanted to maintain the dual deck light look, mount the TIR6s in 2 dual Dashmiser or Raider housings. No need for fiddling around with aluminum stock and paint!

 

[Storm4200]

^ very good point.


Either way, I think that's the way to go over the dual avenger

 

[calebsheltonmed23]

People answering here, have you actually looked at the interior of an Avenger, or are you just shooting in the dark.... "yeah, should work" :undecided: ....... :ugh: :weird: :hopeless: :duh:

If you truly don't know, don't answer...


OP, Unless you're really good with soldering and small circuitry, you need to go another direction. The insides of an Avenger are basically one big circuit board with both sides/leds mounted to the board, similar to a FedSig Viper. Unless you have a masters degree in micro electronics, it's not going to be worth it. There's no practical way, w/o a ton of work that's completely cost prohibitive, to do what you want.


Go for a different set of lights. Either use singles, or if you truly want the dual headed lights, you could use Slimilighters (search syncing slimlighters) or dual BALLAST talons (passives won't work, the LED heads, while still being changeable and separate from the flasher board, mount to the board with 4 pins). The BALLAST Talons still used wires to connect the separate heads to the boards. However, with either, the 2 flasher boards still won't be syncd, each will still have their own flash patterns. The only way to get individual synced patterns would be to go with syncd lightheads.


:explode: :hissyfit: :rant:

I was basing it off of my experience with similar lights...I've never even seen an avenger in real life (to my knowledge), let alone disassembled one. I assumed they were set up similar to Talons where heads can be removed (the 4 pin system) and replaced, which would be hard, but do-able.


OP, raider housing sounds like a great idea. You could also buy some cheap ebay lights and use the housing for better lights.

 

[rwo978]

I was basing it off of my experience with similar lights...I've never even seen an avenger in real life (to my knowledge), let alone disassembled one. I assumed they were set up similar to Talons where heads can be removed (the 4 pin system) and replaced, which would be hard, but do-able.

OP, raider housing sounds like a great idea. You could also buy some cheap ebay lights and use the housing for better lights.

Yes, but without true hands on knowledge, someone's going to end up 'bricking' a light listening to someone who 'thinks it should work....'

People answering here, have you actually looked at the interior of an Avenger, or are you just shooting in the dark.... "yeah, should work" :undecided: ....... :ugh: :weird: :hopeless: :duh:
If you truly don't know, don't answer...

 

[Storm4200]

Do NOT buy cheap eBay lights. What's the point of that??

 

[calebsheltonmed23]

Do NOT buy cheap eBay lights. What's the point of that??

Like I said, for the housing. If you can buy a light for $10 and use the housing, that's a pretty good deal. I didn't say install chinese lights...

 

[Storm4200]

Ohhh ok. I misread. I thought u meant put Chinese lights in the raider housing. Lol.

 

[Flashguy]

Ohhh ok. I misread. I thought u meant put Chinese lights in the raider housing. Lol.

That would literally be the worst suggestion in ELB history. LoL

 

[calebsheltonmed23]

Ohhh ok. I misread. I thought u meant put Chinese lights in the raider housing. Lol.

Heck no! lol

That would literally be the worst suggestion in ELB history. LoL

It's been done before!! lol

 

[JohnFireFan]

People answering here, have you actually looked at the interior of an Avenger, or are you just shooting in the dark.... "yeah, should work" :undecided: ....... :ugh: :weird: :hopeless: :duh:

If you truly don't know, don't answer...


OP, Unless you're really good with soldering and small circuitry, you need to go another direction. The insides of an Avenger are basically one big circuit board with both sides/leds mounted to the board, similar to a FedSig Viper. Unless you have a masters degree in micro electronics, it's not going to be worth it. There's no practical way, w/o a ton of work that's completely cost prohibitive, to do what you want.


Go for a different set of lights. Either use singles, or if you truly want the dual headed lights, you could use Slimilighters (search syncing slimlighters) or dual BALLAST talons (passives won't work, the LED heads, while still being changeable and separate from the flasher board, mount to the board with 4 pins). The BALLAST Talons still used wires to connect the separate heads to the boards. However, with either, the 2 flasher boards still won't be syncd, each will still have their own flash patterns. The only way to get individual synced patterns would be to go with syncd lightheads.


:explode: :hissyfit: :rant:

Thank you for your honesty. I think with all the information we have gathered he should choose another route since he does not have the best skills in circuitry or soldering.


Which is better at a distance and angles? Also, there is no tint on the back window.


(Whelen ION, Whelen LINZ6, Whelen TIR3, Federal Signal IMPAXX Dual Colors)


So far his options are:


4 Whelen IONS / RED|BLUE AMBER|RED


4 Whelen LINZ6 / RED|BLUE AMBER|RED


4 Whelen TIR3 / RED|BLUE AMBER|RED


4 or 2 Federal Signal IMPAXX Dual Colors / (4 Lights: [RED/AMBER], [RED/BLUE], [RED/AMBER], [RED/BLUE]) (2 Lights: [RED/BLUE], [RED/AMBER])

 

[rwo978]

Which, of the 2 setups/switches, is used more? What is the specific reason for 2 separate switches?


Reason I'm asking, you can get the best of both worlds. With the Dashmiser housings, you could install 1 LIN6 red in each housing and 1 amber and 1 blue TIR6 respectively. Or, swap the LIN6s and the TIR6s, so red TIR6s and amber and blue LIN6s.

 

[JohnFireFan]

Which, of the 2 setups/switches, is used more? What is the specific reason for 2 separate switches?

Reason I'm asking, you can get the best of both worlds. With the Dashmiser housings, you could install 1 LIN6 red in each housing and 1 amber and 1 blue TIR6 respectively. Or, swap the LIN6s and the TIR6s, so red TIR6s and amber and blue LIN6s.

Read post #10 on the first question. The dashmiser housing is too large and bulky.

 

[Eric1249]

What about using a two head Dominator (x2) and rewire them. I have a 8 head t/a with red ends. I rewired then red flashers on the ends and ran them to an external flasher. Or I would just use dual colored nforce if they have the right color combos.

 

[Storm4200]

With no tint? The best bet, IMO, is the 4 LINZ6s. They're small, bright and have the best off-axis, Especially with no tint . Theyre also very Easy to sync.