FedSig - AeroDynic 25H

May 25, 2010
140
Hamburg (Germany)
Hallo, fellow collectors. I received a very nice all-amber AeroDynic Mod. 25 today. It was on ebay and I got it for less than 160€ (~220$). The light is in very good condition. It is labeled by "taxameter centrale, netherlands/germany" and has four rotators. Something special in this lightbar is the fast motor. As you can see in the video, the rotators spin very fast. And rotate counter-clockwise. The reason for this is: The motor is mounted in the row of gears and rotators instead of behind them. It's located, where normally the center-gear is under the bulkhead.


The normal mounting-holes are still there and I want to convert this bar to BBBBCCRRRR in the front and RRRRAABBBB in the back. Work so far under the video.


I disassembled the lightbar and cleaned all parts. Inside it looked like new, very few work to do. I divided the lenses, which worked very well and mounted the motor on the back of the rotators. I also changed the position of the gears to make space for two additional rotators in the center.


I had a new blue lens still laying around on which I removed the 4 segment-wide stainless-strip on the top and changed it to a 5 segment-wide one and added one of the amber lens-parts, I took apart before.


aimages.kitesurfer1404.de_t_tmp_aerodynic_25h_zwischenstand01.jpg


At the moment there are some parts missing: 1x slower (normal speed as used in the US) motor-unit, 2x complete mirror/rotator-units, 1x bulkhead (which was broken on the screw-holes), 2 clear lens-segments (male and female). Red lenses might be available in a local lights-shop. So I try to find them there. If anyone can offer the other parts, let me know.


Here are pictures of the motor compared to a normal speed one from my 24MEAH. Slow left, fast right:


aimages.kitesurfer1404.de_t_aerodynic_motor_slow_fast_1.jpg aimages.kitesurfer1404.de_t_aerodynic_motor_slow_fast_2.jpg


No difference visible, I would say. Must be the motor, which runs faster. Although it's labeled 8422B111-25, Type 1, 5-84


You can find videos of the motors compared on my server: Index of /tmp/aerodynic_motor
 
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ERIC6913

Member
May 29, 2010
3,621
California
Sehr schoen! Denn wurde ich gerne haben! Koennten wir etwas tauschen? Vielleicht einen Balken die du von hier suchst? Ich hab die Ersatzteile die du suchst.
 
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chief1562

Member
Mar 18, 2011
5,840
Slaterville/NY
ERIC6913 said:
Sehr schoen! Denn wurde ich gerne haben! Koenten wir etwas tauschen? Vielleicht einen Balken die du von hier suchst? Ich hab die Ersatzteile die du suchst.

Great. now I got to go on norton safe search and look up every word. to finger out what you wrote.
 
May 25, 2010
140
Hamburg (Germany)
ERIC6913 said:
Sehr schoen! Denn wurde ich gerne haben! Koenten wir etwas tauschen? Vielleicht einen Balken die du von hier suchst? Ich hab die Ersatzteile die du suchst.

Let's talk about the replacement-parts. ;) I think shipping is too expensive. I also like this lightbar so much, I don't want to sell or trade something for it. Sorry.
 
May 25, 2010
140
Hamburg (Germany)
Here you are:


aimages.kitesurfer1404.de_t_tmp_aerodynic_25h_motor.jpg


This is after I moved the motor to the back. Imagine the motor mounted 180-degree rotated, so that the black gear is located, where the regular gears go. Don't know how to explain in English. I hope you understand what I mean. Didn't take any pictures before I converted it. :(


Did you know, you can mount the motor that way? :D I didn't even thought of that before. But it works. So the black gear has the same size, as any other gear. That can't be the source of the higher speed.


The motor is labeled "8422B111-25, Type 1, 5-84", which looks perfectly fine to me, doesn't it? The white gear looks like the one in my other Aero, which spins normally slow.


So what the f... :D Any idea?
 

davetess

Member
Aug 4, 2011
31
Czech rep. EUROPE
Pity you didn't take any photo of the way the motor was mounted before :) .


Anyway, I've got one spare motor (with the gear that comes with it) from Aero 22, in case you would need one. I'm in Prague, Czech Rep. so the shipping would be cheap (you're in Germany, right?)
 

timmy

Member
Sep 9, 2012
97
Southern California
You can make the rotors run in either direction by reversing the +/-12VDC. To make the rotors run "backwards" you have to isolate the motor and support from the lightbar bed so it isn't grounded as part of the chassis. Once you have done that you can put Ground to the red wire and +12V to the structure that hold the motor - remember, the motor must be isolated from the bed of the lightbar before you do this. A question - do some countries require that the rotors run in a different direction than what we consider normal here in the USA...?


timmy
 

davetess

Member
Aug 4, 2011
31
Czech rep. EUROPE
timmy said:
You can make the rotors run in either direction by reversing the +/-12VDC. To make the rotors run "backwards" you have to isolate the motor and support from the lightbar bed so it isn't grounded as part of the chassis. Once you have done that you can put Ground to the red wire and +12V to the structure that hold the motor - remember, the motor must be isolated from the bed of the lightbar before you do this. A question - do some countries require that the rotors run in a different direction than what we consider normal here in the USA...?
timmy

I've never heard of a requirement for rotation direction here in my place. However we do have an exact specification of what kind of blue is to be used on lightbar domes (slightly darker than in U.S.)....silly isn't it :weird:
 
May 25, 2010
140
Hamburg (Germany)
There is no need to change polarity of the motor.


It was mounted this way:


RxRxRxRxxMxxRxRxRxR


R=refelctor, x=gear between them, M=motor


As you can see, there are two gears between motor-gear and reflector-gear. So the reflectors rotated reverse to the motor-gear.


After repositioning the motor, there is only one gear between reflector and motor. So the reflector turns to the same direction as the motor. :) Problem solved.
 
May 25, 2010
140
Hamburg (Germany)
davetess said:
I've never heard of a requirement for rotation direction here in my place. However we do have an exact specification of what kind of blue is to be used on lightbar domes (slightly darker than in U.S.)....silly isn't it :weird:
Me neither.


But we have also a specification on the flash-rate of beacons. :)
 

timmy

Member
Sep 9, 2012
97
Southern California
someone is parting out a federal signal lightbar on ebay right now - center bulkhead $10. plus other stuff.


timmy

kitesurfer1404 said:
Hallo, fellow collectors. I received a very nice all-amber AeroDynic Mod. 25 today. It was on ebay and I got it for less than 160€ (~220$). The light is in very good condition. It is labeled by "taxameter centrale, netherlands/germany" and has four rotators. Something special in this lightbar is the fast motor. As you can see in the video, the rotators spin very fast. And rotate counter-clockwise. The reason for this is: The motor is mounted in the row of gears and rotators instead of behind them. It's located, where normally the center-gear is under the bulkhead.

The normal mounting-holes are still there and I want to convert this bar to BBBBCCRRRR in the front and RRRRAABBBB in the back. Work so far under the video.

 

timmy

Member
Sep 9, 2012
97
Southern California
i have lots of aero parts. want to swap the fast motor for a "normal" one? what kind of rotor are you looking for - the fast kind with it's own motor?


timmy

kitesurfer1404 said:
Hallo, fellow collectors. I received a very nice all-amber AeroDynic Mod. 25 today. It was on ebay and I got it for less than 160€ (~220$). The light is in very good condition. It is labeled by "taxameter centrale, netherlands/germany" and has four rotators. Something special in this lightbar is the fast motor. As you can see in the video, the rotators spin very fast. And rotate counter-clockwise. The reason for this is: The motor is mounted in the row of gears and rotators instead of behind them. It's located, where normally the center-gear is under the bulkhead.

The normal mounting-holes are still there and I want to convert this bar to BBBBCCRRRR in the front and RRRRAABBBB in the back. Work so far under the video.

 

denko3

Member
Jul 31, 2010
866
SLOVENIA,EUROPE
wowwwwwww!


Great!!!! :)

kitesurfer1404 said:
Thanks to user timmy, I received a slower motor and some additional rotators for the center today. Thanks!

I put that stuff into the lightbar and here's a little preview of the bar in current state:

 

Engineer8307

Member
Nov 19, 2014
167
Illinois/Chicago
Thanks to user timmy, I received a slower motor and some additional rotators for the center today. Thanks!


I put that stuff into the lightbar and here's a little preview of the bar in current state:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5NDmi_qd6wk
Kitesurfer how do you get these lightbars so clean? Whats the best way to clean these guys up, all the internals?
 
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Jun 18, 2013
3,709
PA
Depends on what you cleaning off assuming no corrosion simple green does a great job...  I use it quite regularly on mine.

Kitesurfer how do you get these lightbars so clean? Whats the best way to clean these guys up, all the internals?
 

801

Member
Jul 14, 2014
679
NV
Very nice.  Also wondering how you got the inside so clean, I have a 25CF that needs some work and hopefully a CTS on it's way.
 
Jun 18, 2013
3,709
PA
the Model 25 all light is one of my favorite Aerodynic Variants.

Its on real draw back is the 50+ amp draw with H1 bulbs.
 

801

Member
Jul 14, 2014
679
NV
Eric, yes it's from Jack. Hopefully you weren't interested in it. It will be my first, and probably only CTS.
 
Jun 18, 2013
3,709
PA
Could you use lower wattage bulbs?
You can convert the bar to bayonet base bulbs, and use 795 35watt bulbs.


I did this to a model 24h bar i restored for the exact same reason too high of an amperage draw.
 
Jun 18, 2013
3,709
PA
Easy to do? How is that done exactly?
Its actually pretty easy to do in regards to a conversion.

If you do a forum search and look up my user profile you can probably see the one I did.

To sum it up.   you remove the 2x screws and the copper clips and ring that holds the H1 bulbs in the base.  This leaves you with a bayonet base.. but still the female spade adapter on the end of the wire.

You will need to convert the spade adapter to the puck that is found on the bayonet bases.    These can be found at most auto stores, with the replacement socket you will need the puck with the wire and the spring the rest of the socket can be discarded.    Cut the wire and splice the "puck" end on instead of the female spade end,  make sure you use the spring that came included with the socket adapter to keep the puck in contact with the base of the bulb.

I would hold onto the H1 adapter parts in the event you want to switch it back.
 
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