HELP - Feniex Install on a civilian 2016 Explorer

Musicforhim

Member
May 28, 2016
18
Roanoke, Virginia
I am a total novice at installing equipment in a vehicle but a quick learner. We don't have any professional installers in the Roanoke area that I know of so I'm going to try and do it myself. Here are my plans for my 2016 Ford Explorer Limited. If you could comment whether this will work or not and give me any insights into potential problems and steer me in the right direction, I'd be very appreciative.

Ordered:
- Feniex Fusion Visor Bar -- All R/W (<5 amps)
- Mini 4200

Future Additions/Modifications to consider:
- Swapping out two center R/W 's for two white dummy heads (<5 amps) (to get that wigwag takedown flash without losing the functionality of the flood mode on the dual R/W's)
- Feniex Flasher (10 amps [for the two <5 white dummies])
- Feniex Fusion 600 (4 amps)

Install:
- Calculating a potential total draw of 20 amps
- Paying a car radio install buisness to run a 16 gauge 20 amp fused wire from the battery into the passenger compartment behind the radio. (I have no clue how to get through the firewall)
- Battery line goes into some sort of power distribution block (recommendations?) and gets split 3 times to provide 12v+ to Visor bar, Mini 4200, and future flasher and Fusion 600. (Or could maybe a simple terminal block work??)
- The distribution or terminal block would go somewhere behind/around the radio area
- The function wires between the bars and Mini 4200 would either connect via the terminal block or covered male disconnects & t-taps.
- Mini 4200 would go in the small compartment below the radio stack

Questions:
- Should I have them run a ground from the battery as well or just find a place to ground in the car?
- Does the wiring harness for the visor bar come out on the passenger side?
- Should I go with a power distribution or terminal block?
- Any idea how I can pull the small compartment out to drill a hole for the wires?

Thank you so much for your help!
IMG_0699.JPG IMG_0720.JPG
 

MtnMan

Member
Dec 20, 2012
1,533
Eastern PA
You're overestimating the amp draw. For example, the two dummy LED heads should be less than 1 A each. Having said that, there's nothing wrong with running a 20 A main feed, but use 12 gauge wire.

Installing the power wire isn't a big deal. Use a location where the factory wire harness passes through the firewall. You can sometimes slide additional wires through the existing grommet (a little silicone spray helps), or pierce a small extra hole.

For the grounds, find or install a screw into into solid body metal.
 

Musicforhim

Member
May 28, 2016
18
Roanoke, Virginia
You're overestimating the amp draw. For example, the two dummy LED heads should be less than 1 A each. Having said that, there's nothing wrong with running a 20 A main feed, but use 12 gauge wire.

Installing the power wire isn't a big deal. Use a location where the factory wire harness passes through the firewall. You can sometimes slide additional wires through the existing grommet (a little silicone spray helps), or pierce a small extra hole.

For the grounds, find or install a screw into into solid body metal.

Any insight on a power distribution block vs. terminal block?
Thanks for your help!
 

Jarred J.

Lifetime VIP Donor
May 21, 2010
11,584
Shelbyville, TN
i would run minimum 8 gauge. might get the bug later and want more lights and or siren etc and instead of paying somebody to do the job 2 times do it right the first time.

distro block...

wouldnt put it behind radio. somewhere where it can accessed easily

somthing like this,

apowerwerx.azureedge.net_powerwerxpictures_powerwerx_10_circui454d241d28681beb08af2ee9e7b6c4fe.jpg

DO NOT run all ground back to battery unless product SPECIFICALLY says so such as two way radios or sirens. grounds should be kept as small a run as possible.
 

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