Help on removal of a CJ184

I have been invited to receive a pair of CJ184s for free, but I have to remove them from the truck (Ford C cab). Since it has been about 50 years since I last installed one (and I’ve slept since then) my recollection may be a tad rusty. Please correct me if I’m wrong:

Remove dome; Remove lamp holders; Remove drive belt; Remove screws holding skirt to base and remove skirt; Remove bolts holding base to vehicle; Remove wiring.

Did I miss anything? If anyone has a set of instructions they could share, it would be much appreciated.
Thanks and cheers!
 
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May 21, 2010
418
Western Montana
Yes, as coop359 says, they're probably just attached to the roof with the customary bolts, so just a question of removing the liner to get to them (and hopefully the nuts aren't too rusted--I've occasionally had to use a Dremel with metal cutting wheel to get them off). Don't see a need to completely dismantle the beacon just for removal.

Good luck!
 
Well, I finally got to remove the CJ-184s…after the 500 year flood of 2019, the town went dormant (nearly ceased to exist) as they cast about for leadership. Not many people remained. The town council met earlier this week and decided to scrap the pumper. The lights were mine.

The process was as I expected: had to remove the dome, bulb housing and the skirt to get to the bolts. First ugly surprise—the first beacon I tackled had a broken dome, so internals were badly corroded. Got the skirt off and ugly surprise #2…no speaker driver or horn, and no motor! I was more hopeful for the second beacon as the dome was intact and in good condition. The bolts holding the bulb assembly together were clean and didn’t sheer off like on the first light. Got the skirt off and…no speaker driver or horn. At least the motor was there.

Back in my farm shop, I dismantled the corroded one first and salvaged as many parts as possible: skirt, dome band and a few pieces of the drive train. The ”good” beacon had a bent bottom plate, but the corroded beacon’s plate was straight so I’ll use that. Tested the motor and nada. Guess I’ll ask @Skulldigger to take a looksee. I’ll post pics of my progress.
 

radiostrobe

Member
Feb 18, 2013
24
north carolina
As a tagalong to this discussion, I have a question about replacing the belt on one of these. I admit I haven’t put any effort into attempting this yet, and it may be an easy task. I have the new belt already. I don’t want to damage anything in the process. What is the procedure for replacing the belt? And is there any maintenance that should be done while I’m at it? This light is just part of my collection and not going to be heavily used, if that makes a difference.
 
To replace the belt, you have to remove the bulb holder assembly (loosen—no need to remove—the 1/4” bolts behind the bulbs—2 per bulb holder. Apply a drop of penetrating oil on the ends of the bolts—be very gentle with them as they like to break off!) Start with the outer holders first, then inner holders, and lift it off the shaft. Next, remove the 4 small screws that hold the brush plate in place (bottom of middle picture). Apply penetrating oil on the ends of the screws that are threaded through, and visible in the speaker horn area. Lift the brush plate and you have full access to the belt. There should be a felt pad around the shaft bushing to keep it lubed. If it’s dry, add a heavy gear oil sparingly.

Good luck @radiostrobe!
 
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radiostrobe

Member
Feb 18, 2013
24
north carolina
To replace the belt, you have to remove the bulb holder assembly (loosen—no need to remove—the 1/4” bolts behind the bulbs—2 per bulb holder. Apply a drop of penetrating oil on the ends of the bolts—be very gentle with them as they like to break off!) Start with the outer holders first, then inner holders, and lift it off the shaft. Next, remove the 4 small screws that hold the brush plate in place (bottom of middle picture). Apply penetrating oil on the ends of the screws that are threaded through, and visible in the speaker horn area. Lift the brush plate and you have full access to the belt. There should be a felt pad around the shaft bushing to keep it lubed. If it’s dry, add a heavy gear oil sparingly.

Good luck @radiostrobe!
Great! Thank you for your help!
 
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stansdds

Member
May 25, 2010
3,533
U.S.A., Virginia
Does anyone have a FS parts diagram of the CJ184 they can share?
FS-CJ184-diagram.jpg





FS-CJ184-parts-list.jpg


 
So @Skulldigger received my motor in the Saturday mail, and had it running like new by the end of the day. He graciously sent pics of the motor’s condition and I post them here for your entertainment and as a way to extol the virtuosity of his fine “motor” skills (pun intended)!

BDD34992-42AD-4E93-857A-FD60FD2060BD.jpeg A2F15AFB-687A-4F62-A66B-BCC03BBF4758.jpeg 988EF434-95AE-48C7-97D9-9822AECA75B4.jpeg 1FFA8307-E406-42EF-AB34-C60A6E582961.jpeg
853453FC-3AF3-4560-825F-4A2A984CABB8.jpeg 868873BC-DE95-4E78-AE65-5F0722B56C98.jpeg 036F5F06-7683-4644-A44B-77A378975A22.jpeg
this last pic is from the “proof of life” video. :)
 
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Got the motor back from @Skulldigger yesterday (thankyouthankyouthankyou) so I will be starting the refresh (not a full restoration) of one of the 184s. Unless I can locate a pre-E series FS electronic siren (low pitch wail/yelp), I will not replace the missing driver/horn. I will probably part out the second beacon. So to commemorate my nearly 20 years in the Communist State (that’s what truckers called Virginia as VSP would confiscate on the spot any radar detector!), I need a blue dome to replicate the VSP cruisers beacon of the era. More updates to follow.
 

stansdds

Member
May 25, 2010
3,533
U.S.A., Virginia
Got the motor back from @Skulldigger yesterday (thankyouthankyouthankyou) so I will be starting the refresh (not a full restoration) of one of the 184s. Unless I can locate a pre-E series FS electronic siren (low pitch wail/yelp), I will not replace the missing driver/horn. I will probably part out the second beacon. So to commemorate my nearly 20 years in the Communist State (that’s what truckers called Virginia as VSP would confiscate on the spot any radar detector!), I need a blue dome to replicate the VSP cruisers beacon of the era. More updates to follow.
It's actually "The Communistwealth of Virginia". ;)
 
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Wailer

Member
May 24, 2010
2,290
Canada
Unless I can locate a pre-E series FS electronic siren (low pitch wail/yelp), I will not replace the missing driver/horn.
If you're thinking of the the typical Director (brown control panel) and Interceptor (blue control panel) sirens, there are two low pitched versions:

PA15 and PA20: both have wail, yelp, and alert tones and were manufactured from about 1962 to 1966. Finding either one in working order could be tough because the circuitry wasn't very reliable.

Early PA15A (series 1B, 1C, 1D) and early PA20A (series 2B, 2C, 2D): both were manufactured from about 1967 until the beginning of the 1970s. I've seen emergency vehicles as late as the 1972 model year equipped with those versions. In my opinion, the Federal CJ184 speaker/light sounds best with them. Where I live the city fire department had a battalion chief car and three pumpers equipped with those lights and sirens.
 
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So @JohnMarcson graciously parted with his D Series PA-15 Director and allowed me to become its current steward (major Thanks!). So I am now in need of a 58w driver (part # 8283B321A) and long cone (8283B430-01…thanks @stansdds for the part sheet!). These on top of the blue dome…!

Just acquired a sand blasting cabinet to clean up the internals…more to come—with pics.
 
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