ur20v
Member
Identify this rotating assembly
- Thread starter ur20v
- Start date
dmathieu
Lifetime VIP Donor
ur20v
Member
dmathieu
Lifetime VIP Donor
ur20v
Member
Beautiful! Looks like I'm going to have to have the metal refinished with fresh yellow zinc chromate.
Maxim2Eng
Supporting Donor
All the parts to make it whole (skirt, label, gasket and dome) are available from eLb members. Skirt is expensive as is a glass dome (almost always clear), but any FS plastic dome is readily available. Also, if the motor is toast, @Skulldigger can probably resurrect it for you. Nice find!
ur20v
Member
tsquale
Lifetime VIP Donor
ur20v
Member
Thank you! I'm looking forward to getting it, though it's at the end of the line of my projects. I *still* haven't polished my Whelen 99 dome, and after that's done, my poor neglected S&W 8884. And after that is my Dietz 235-6927! So the hill light is a long ways off. Just glad I pulled the trigger on it when it popped up, even though I wasn't sure what it was.
Maxim2Eng
Supporting Donor
I used Eastwood.com ”cadmium“ paint kit that turned out pretty good, but at $60, you can probably get it re-plated.
Sometimes you just gotta jump! I snagged a 174 that was missing the tag and the seller didn’t know what it was (didn’t test it either)…but one of the photos of the gear box showed the tell-tale oscillation gear shaft. Got it for a song.
Sometimes you just gotta jump! I snagged a 174 that was missing the tag and the seller didn’t know what it was (didn’t test it either)…but one of the photos of the gear box showed the tell-tale oscillation gear shaft. Got it for a song.
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ur20v
Member
So it arrived this morning and I finally got around to taking it out of the box and checking it out. I checked the bulbs for voltage markings and saw 12v on two of them. I glanced at the wiring and just for gits and shiggles I checked continuity between the chassis and positive and found nothing but a dead short everywhere I checked. I unscrewed the bulb retainer tabs and looked a little more closely at the wiring - what a disaster. Putting voltage to it would've just blown a fuse, or worse... I got it back to the way it should've been, but I was short one jumper and wound up making one for testing sake. I checked for continuity again, found everything to be acceptable, and fired it up. Motor is strong and has a nice tone to it, no grinding or slipping or strain, and all the ancient incandescent bulbs light up, even the two I managed to pop the terminals off their stubs. Here's a brief video (sorry about my crazy old lady at the end; she's hard of hearing but has perfect vision and flashing lights set her off sometimes).