Installation Question (Best Practice)
- Thread starter JazzDad
- Start date
While I'm not a professional vehicle upfitter, I do a good bit of wiring. Low voltage, networking, and RF gear (LMR, WLAN, and soon some LTE).
Time: I'm of the opinion that this equipment should not be so prone to failure as to justify adding connectors inline. It's different if your vehicle is frequently changing, due to this being a hobby or demonstration vehicle. Connectors take time to install -- I can cut the wire and do a butt or lap splice faster than I can install a 4 pin connector.
Cost: Good connectors aren't that cheap.
Complexity: It introduces another point that may fail in your system. It also introduces connector loss, though that's not a concerning design criteria for these low current DC systems. In the auto industry, there's a phrase "stop comebacks". I don't want an issue to occur because of a faulty installation.
For these reasons, I do not.
Time: I'm of the opinion that this equipment should not be so prone to failure as to justify adding connectors inline. It's different if your vehicle is frequently changing, due to this being a hobby or demonstration vehicle. Connectors take time to install -- I can cut the wire and do a butt or lap splice faster than I can install a 4 pin connector.
Cost: Good connectors aren't that cheap.
Complexity: It introduces another point that may fail in your system. It also introduces connector loss, though that's not a concerning design criteria for these low current DC systems. In the auto industry, there's a phrase "stop comebacks". I don't want an issue to occur because of a faulty installation.
For these reasons, I do not.
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I've been known to buy the dual outlet lighter splitter that plugs in the lighter and has two outlets with their own wires, I cut that apart and wire the outlet in under the dash with the light in question plugged in and taped up safe where it cannot be switched off by Murphy and also so as not to void the lights warranty by cutting the factory plug. Mind you it's either a pov or plow vehicle for the most part.
I install a switched cigarette jac for these applications, the light can be removed whenever needed.
To expand on my first response, I like to use a PowerPole or similar connector for equipment that is non-permanently mounted. My philosophy is that it it's not mechanically attached to the vehicle, it should be readily unpluggable.
Not that it's a big deal either way.... You can always direct wire, and then if the light ever needs to be removed, cut the cord and use a plug for reinstallation.
I have used the dedicated lighter socket approach as well, and I'm not wild about it. Lighter plugs are bulky and don't provide a particularly solid connection. Securing the plug with a zip tie helps.
Not that it's a big deal either way.... You can always direct wire, and then if the light ever needs to be removed, cut the cord and use a plug for reinstallation.
I have used the dedicated lighter socket approach as well, and I'm not wild about it. Lighter plugs are bulky and don't provide a particularly solid connection. Securing the plug with a zip tie helps.
To answer the OP - Yes, I do. I use quick disconnects (male / female) on every light I install. The main wiring is all hard wired but I 95% of the time use Feniex products and the T-6s sometimes go out or someone pressure washes the vehicle and moisture messes up the unit. It's much easier to just unplug the bad unit and replace it with a good unit than it would be to cut the wires, add butt connectors etc. But, I'm sure everyone has their own opinion.
To add to my above post, I take it back - I've installed a couple lightbars on to a fire engine and did not use quick connects there. Soldered and heat shrunk those connection points.
For the specific situation where the light in question is semi-permanent mounted ( I.e. by suction cups or to the visor/headliner), is not easily removable from the dash/window, is controlled by an independent switch (SS2200/Feniex 4200), AND is going in an apparatus/dept. unit? No. Buttsplice or solder that sucker into the system, avoid one less point of failure.
That said, for POVs on low amp draw single heads I will use weather resistant M/F spade connectors (flat not round). Because we all know that people constantly want to upgrade/change when it comes to lights. Makes it easier to upgrade, and in some cases the customer can do it on their own if they have the knowledge to do so.
Also, If its a "short term light" meaning its only going to be mounted for a special event (say plowing for couple mos.) or as a "while im waiting on my new permanent light to arrive" then M/F connectors are ok as well.
That said, for POVs on low amp draw single heads I will use weather resistant M/F spade connectors (flat not round). Because we all know that people constantly want to upgrade/change when it comes to lights. Makes it easier to upgrade, and in some cases the customer can do it on their own if they have the knowledge to do so.
Also, If its a "short term light" meaning its only going to be mounted for a special event (say plowing for couple mos.) or as a "while im waiting on my new permanent light to arrive" then M/F connectors are ok as well.
My next bar install will be done with jpole / molex when I can use them. Only because I may switch off between two or three bars dependent on my mood. Grill, deck, radios, dash etc etc I will always solder & heat shrink when I know it will be long term. If I think it will be short term (less than 2 years max) I may use a hand full of butt connectors in low amperage areas. Preferably dry areas too that wont be exposed to feet kicking, rubbing or any type of tugging.
I used to do whichever the customer wanted, and charge for my time. If people are willing to build purple split fail blurs "because the customer said so", then something like an in-line plug should be as easy as what the customer specifies. If they spec a dash light I ask how they want it wired. If they don't know I ask if they plan to move it between vehicles etc. It's not worth the plug if you plan to leave the light there for the life of the vehicle.