Jeep Wrangler (JKR) setup/mount questions

[jabbeaux]

I'm looking at putting some lights on my '14 Jeep Wrangler (JKR). Really like @whatevah 's setup (here). Unfortunately next to zero mounts for Jeep Wranglers...so kinda need to nail down some specs before I start figuring out fabricating brackets (want to avoid, if at all possible).

Couple questions:
1. Anyone have experience putting a Feniex Fusion 800 stick on the hood, above the cowl? Using perhaps Westin's mounts (here)?
2. What color setup is @whatevah running on the rear bar? Is that a Feniex Fusion 800 stick in R/R/R/R/B/B/B/B as color 1, and Yellow for color 2?
3. For the rear, are there any bracket recommendations to mount this above the hinges rather than on/through the hinges? Best I've found is (this one) from ZRoadz but is only 30" wide, and requires end-cap mount.
4. Can I fit Feniex Cannons in my side marker lights in the Jeep? Figured I'd do dual amber/blue (amber for turn, blue for when activate lights)

I contacted Feniex (phone and email), went through a few escalations and never got any answers about more detailed tech specs I'd need to make a good informed decision.

Appreciate all the help, especially the many great posts from @FEVER , it's been super helpful as I narrow down what I want to buy.

Thanks,
Matt

 

[whatevah]

The Westin mounts are too wide, they're for a 40" bar and the 800 sticks are 37.46" (per specs) wide.

My rear 800 is RRRRBBBB primary with AAAAAAAA as secondary.

We considered using the endcap mounting brackets and mounting the rear stick on top of the hardtop, but I wanted to keep it lower for wind noise and snow clearance. Not really many good options for big rear warning without a rack.

I'm pretty sure the Cannons won't fit in the sidemarker housings, they're a lot bigger than the bulb there. I'd also advise not using them as the reverse lights due to the thick lens fluting... ok for secondary lights but not as primary warning. You can kinda tell that in my videos.

 

[jabbeaux]

Thank you! I replied to our PM's since we got pretty detailed there.

Just going to throw this out there for anyone though:

- Where would you recommend mounting an 800 stick (front facing) on jeep? If inside windshield, how much flashback is there? What brackets worked (feniex generic)?
- Anyone know the dimensions of Feniex's END-CAP Brackets? Ideally if it gets the bar total length close to 40", then I could use any 40" offroad lightbar mount...this is what I was thinking/hoping originally.

 

[whatevah]

Have you considered using a windshield mount for offroad lights? https://www.quadratec.com/products/12110_9000_07.htm Something like that one might be pretty cool and be able to add a pair of smaller offroad lights to the sides for aux flood lights.

For my interior 800, we bent a piece of aluminum to match the windshield frame angle and used a self-tapping bolt (pics on my thread)... just used the bolt included with the 800 to mount it to the bracket. I made a temporary flash shield from foam board and haven't gotten around to upgrading it. One side is kinda warped (split because I have my dash cam mounted to the stick), so I need to do that. I get a little flashback but nothing annoying... more noticeable when I have it on flood override, though.

 

[jabbeaux]

I've thought about a windshield mount, but actually prefer it hidden. I (personal preference) also don't love the tube-look of most aftermarket windshield mounts. I currently have 50" Rigid bar w/ Rigid windshield/brow mounts (selling now). I have Rigid cubes mounted low on the A-pillars, too, and prefer to keep them there barring a better solution.

Thank you for all the advice!

 

[whatevah]

Inside keeps it clear of snow and ice too

 

[FiremanSketch]

Although it sounds like you're pretty set on Feniex, have you given a look at SNM? They've got an off-road/emergency combo light in various lengths. They're probably the best "off-brand" light out there, and multiple members here, myself included, back them up in regards to putting out solid in-house lights.

http://www.strobesnmore.com/Strobes-N-More-TruDual-EFlood50-Warning-Flood-Bar.html

 

[jabbeaux]

I’ve looked at SNM but wasn’t in love with the idea of their 50” bar (weak output vs current rigid 50” I’m running; dislike the led spacing of flash sections; dislike needing an external flasher). A few guys in my FD use the brand (I’ve purchased from them 16yrs ago), and like their stuff.

Good points about snow/ice. D’oh didn’t even dwell on that one...a very good reason for going interior on the front. Looks like I might be heavily copying whatever’s install job!

 

[jabbeaux]

Quick update, I'm going to pop an order in this week, and pretty well decided on this setup barring any unforseen issues that I haven't thought of. Now just have to find a dealer with good prices.

Front:

• 1 Feniex 4200 controller to run everything.
• 1 Feniex Fusion 800 dual color, BBBBBBBB and WWWWWWWW. Inside windshield. 40d optics on edges and inner 2, 180d optics on remaining. Do I need to buy special brackets to mount as an inner bar? Or are the supplied bracketry sufficient to bend/drill/screw into the metal headliner?
• 2 Feniex Fusion surface mount dual color (B/W). 180 optics. One for each front corner. Undecided on mounting to (a) L-bracket at angle from aftermarket steel bumper, or (b) recessed mount into the side fender flares.

Rear:

• 1 Feniex Fusion 800 dual color, BBBBRRRR and AAAAAAAA. 180 optics. Mounted just above the rear window hinges, if have clearance to open window. If not, will go across the hinges.
• 2 Feniex Fusion surface mount dual color (B/W). 180 optics. Recessed into rear bumper, one on each side.
• Will prob wig-wag (via 4200) my LED taillight turn signals (JW Speaker aftermarket)...amber color. Probably won't do the stop (red) lights too, unless I can get any braking to override the wigwag. Would be nice to have R/A on each side though.

 

[Carlos SpicyWeiner]

Thank you! I replied to our PM's since we got pretty detailed there.

- Anyone know the dimensions of Feniex's END-CAP Brackets? Ideally if it gets the bar total length close to 40", then I could use any 40" offroad lightbar mount...this is what I was thinking/hoping originally.

 

[jabbeaux]

Thank you! Looks like that'd have made my 40" mount idea a tough one. I'll be going the interior route, similar to how "whatever" did.

 

[Carlos SpicyWeiner]

yeah... I can honestly say I've not setup a Jeep for emergency lights.

 

[jabbeaux]

For wiring 800 sticks and fusions with a 4200DL, should I run 12V from the battery to each light? Then only the light control wires go to the 4200. Or can I pull all my power off the 4200’s outputs?

Not looking to cut corners, but don’t want to run extra wiring to the battery if not needed. What’s the best way to think about this?

 

[whatevah]

Consider using a 8ga wire to a relay, then to a Blue Sea (or similar) fuse box. Tap into an ignition controlled circuit and use that to activate the relay. Use the fuse box to supply power to the 4200, sticks and siren/PA. Could get fancy and use a timer after the relay if you want to let the 4200 run for a little while after the engine shuts off. You can use the 4200 to power the sticks, but that takes up outputs (well, at least one).

 

[jabbeaux]

Thank you. All good points. I got a Blue Sea 6 circuit box coming and will hook the main +/- on the sticks to that. It'll come in handy for wiring the Rigid offroad lights and gives me a higher amperage draw per circuit anyway. That combined with wiring the flush mounts together should free up outputs.

I'll tap an ignition switched wire for ignition and for daytime. Also tempted to find a wire for vehicle unlock, to trigger the steady white on the FSM's.

 

[whatevah]

You might need a larger gauge wire if you want to power the Rigids, as well. Not sure how much power you're looking to run. If you check the Jeep forums, there are a few tutorials showing the wire for the dome light circuit, that might work for the unlock flood function.

Tip... the 4200 controller backlight is very bright. Dim is plenty bright during the day. You might not even need the bright option.

 

[jabbeaux]

Finished install w/ writeup coming.

Two last questions on 4200DL:

1. How many flash patterns do the 8 LEDs on the controller show? Played around with programming but can’t identify more than a random flashing, and arrows.
2. Does the controller function normally if I don’t connect day or night input wires? I am only using night input, and it’s far too bright at night. Admittedly I haven’t added labels yet while I refine the button programming.

 

[whatevah]

I have the non-DL version, but I'd assume that the answers are the same... I think just 4 patterns (arrows and random). Yes, 4200 will work without signal to either Day or Night inputs, but Ignition is required (but can be programmed as a momentary with a timer). I have a switch in my Jeep feeding Night and Ignition, with Ignition programmed as Momentary with a 60 minute timer. Occasionally on long night trips, I'll turn off that switch so it kills the backlight and I can still use the controller during the next 60 minutes.

 

[jabbeaux]

Wait this is exactly my use case. Drove out to Long Island (2 1/2 hours) with my retinas being seared as 4200DL is right above rear view mirror.

If I set ignition to a momentary, say 60min timer, within the software, then backlight turns off after 60 mins (even though power is supplied into the ignition input, technically speaking)? I was very confused by the “timer” part of manual as pertains to ignition or night...could not understand what that’s doing. It seemed like it kept the circuit powered even after power was removed from that input? Did I get that opposite?

 

[whatevah]

Timer means that output is active when the trigger is active and for whatever the timer period is after the trigger is removed. Originally used for gun locks, but now often used for intersection modes (faster patterns and berserk siren tones) and anything else a creative installer can think of.