Wanted Micro edge/freedom

Frooom

Member
Dec 6, 2012
843
NH
Looking for a pair of micro edge/freedom. I know this is a really long shot. Need red for color, or some mix. I'd even take just shells and build my own, whatever. Just looking for a pair of these.

Attacked an image of what I am looking for off an ebay listing.
 

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JohnMarcson

Administrator
May 7, 2010
10,971
Northwest Ohio
Looking for a pair of micro edge/freedom. I know this is a really long shot. Need red for color, or some mix. I'd even take just shells and build my own, whatever. Just looking for a pair of these.

Attacked an image of what I am looking for off an ebay listing.
I have two micro 9Ms shells in. They are the same frame is the freedom. They could use some cleaning, but the parts are intact. I also have one bare micro frame (not pictured), frame only no mounts etc.
PXL_20221112_022711196.MP.jpg

PXL_20221112_022717192.MP.jpg

PXL_20221112_022735651.MP.jpg
 

JohnMarcson

Administrator
May 7, 2010
10,971
Northwest Ohio
Ah man, I wish they weren’t amber :-( I can’t imagine what a set of clear lenses would cost.
Not too bad actually. You just need 4 regular clear endcaps and one stick of clear lens to cut down/ So like under $100. The frames have always been the tough thing to find and too small to cut down from full sized bars, which is why I bought these. Take a look for some clear endcaps and a stick of clear freedom lens. I saw some for $20 an end cap recently on eBay. Either way, I have the frames if you needed them, probably some of the internal mounting parts too.
 

JohnMarcson

Administrator
May 7, 2010
10,971
Northwest Ohio

Frooom

Member
Dec 6, 2012
843
NH
For some reason these are super expensive as a whole. The frames are hard to cut down to that size so I think that is part of the pricing.
Yeah I agree. The other aspect of this is I need to learn what I can mount internally. I essentially want to pack in as much punch as I can.
 

firebuff17

Member
Mar 28, 2011
774
CT
For some reason these are super expensive as a whole. The frames are hard to cut down to that size so I think that is part of the pricing.

Love those micro edges. The strobe version was my favorite. Still looking for them but like you said, they are super expensive all the time. And they don’t come up very often.
 

JohnMarcson

Administrator
May 7, 2010
10,971
Northwest Ohio
You can mount 4 400 series, 2 corner modules and a rear 400 (700 in some cases) and variations on those setups. They have some brackets designed for mounting stuff behind corner modules. Otherwise 9m / older freedom mounts work. I have pics of some of the mounts somewhere. My favorite setup is 2 corner modules and a rear one, but 400s all around is cool too. The frames are tiny once you pull the lenses, it's interesting how much if theses is lens.
 

firebuff17

Member
Mar 28, 2011
774
CT
My favorite setup is 2 corner modules and a rear one. The frames are tiny once you pull the lenses, it's interesting how much if theses is lens.

I agree. The “Flying V” as I call it, with the third module connecting the open part of the V would be my ideal set up. I would choose the UPS690 or an ISP88 if I needed more outputs.
Again, I have no where, or no need for this set up, but is one that I would like to collect.
 

JohnMarcson

Administrator
May 7, 2010
10,971
Northwest Ohio
I haven't been home, but when I am I will start pulling out all the hardware I have seen used for these and pop the lenses off mine too.
 

Frooom

Member
Dec 6, 2012
843
NH
Much appreciated! I've got to learn/figure out what I need to essentially make a pair of micro freedoms. I know I need 4 corner modules, 2 flashers, and...theoretically, a pair of freedom stacked for the back maybe (not sure if I would do a < > config or a ^ ^ config). I'm just not super thrilled with the traffic awareness from the dual SNM ebeacons I'm running right now.
 

JohnMarcson

Administrator
May 7, 2010
10,971
Northwest Ohio
There are many ways to mount lightheads in micro freedoms/9Ms. When using two corner arrays (whether strobe or LED) you need one of the two types of brackets shown below. Here are these two basic options for mounting the rear 400 series LED using a black "blank" 400 series filler in place of the 400 series LED for demonstration purposes.

These brackets do not hold the 400 LED. The 400 LED snaps into the alley light holder on the end cap.
PXL_20221114_231625525.MP.jpg


Here the brackets hold the 400 series LED. You can use spacers to bring them flush with the back of the brackets. This is more useful if the rear 400 were a strobe which cannot mount on the endcap due to heat. This type of bracket gives you the most flexibility. You could mount the blank across for stability and still use the endcap to mount the LED.
PXL_20221114_232327748.MP.jpg
 
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Frooom

Member
Dec 6, 2012
843
NH
Ok, so to start to build my understanding, in order to make two of these, each needs:

2 corner modules, 1 400 module, 2 corner brackets, and 2 400 brackets.

Anyone got a recommendation for a flasher that can sync/would be appropriate for this? I want to try to keep this nice and simple, just apply power from my switchbox and blinkly blinky.
 

StEaLtH2

Member
Mar 3, 2011
2,159
New England
Frooom, how are these to be mounted?
Can you post a pic of the current set up w the SnM setup? Are they Backrack mounted?
Are you planning on orienting the V to the side or front? IMO wiring both pods to a central flasher is the most efficient as you only need a power and a ground circuit. If you plan on having some alternation in each unit you would need a third circuit. If you add a flasher to each unit, you need a second flasher, and power/ground to run that, plus a synch wire to add that wow factor. Plus using a central flasher gives you the option to use a flasher that wouldn’t physically fit a Micro housing with multiple modes to truly pimp some Micro Freedoms that I can’t wait to see!
Will the finished product be all red modules? Tks
 

Frooom

Member
Dec 6, 2012
843
NH
Ow my head. Maybe I need to give up, I am trying to go with simple setups. I can happily provide a picture of my current setup. It's a backrack on a truck that I have very limited roof to garage clearance on, so a normal lightbar is not an option. I used post topper beacon platforms I found (https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Flint-Hill-Goods/FHG33ZR.html) , and the SNM's are attached via the pole mount hole with a large bolt. I would bolt these micro frames to said mounts. I use a star lcs-869 to activate the 2 SNM ebeacons (which are conncted with sync wire, and currently use slow rotate). My plan for this would be to do the V forward.
 

JohnMarcson

Administrator
May 7, 2010
10,971
Northwest Ohio
Ok, so to start to build my understanding, in order to make two of these, each needs:

2 corner modules, 1 400 module, 2 corner brackets, and 2 400 brackets.

Anyone got a recommendation for a flasher that can sync/would be appropriate for this? I want to try to keep this nice and simple, just apply power from my switchbox and blinkly blinky.
No, you just need the corner assemblies x2 and a 400 x1 and a bracket for the rear of each corner assembly. There are only two brackets total for each light. There is no specific 400 bracket, it is either part of the back of the corner bracket or it snaps into the end cap. I would use a Whelen LED flasher.
 

Frooom

Member
Dec 6, 2012
843
NH
Ohhh ok. Is there a way to run power to both units simultaneously and have a sync wire between 2 flashers?

Thx
 

JohnMarcson

Administrator
May 7, 2010
10,971
Northwest Ohio
Ohhh ok. Is there a way to run power to both units simultaneously and have a sync wire between 2 flashers?

Thx
Yeah, you basically are forced to use an external flasher. I would use a Whelen UF8. I just grabbed one for $75 shipped on ebay.

You need-

2 frames
4 lens sticks
4 endcaps
4 Freedom corner LEDs
2 400 series LEDs
4 micro specific brackets
2 stud or direct bar mounts
Wiring
1 Flasher

I have the frames, the brackets, the flasher, the wiring, and maybe the mounts if you want them. I can tear them down or I can just sell you the complete 9M micros. They're just strobe instead of LED and they would give you an idea of how to switch out the parts into LEDs.


You would need to find the LEDs, endcaps and the lens (you don't need much lens maybe 2.5 inches each side).

It's something to think about. I'm not going to be doing anything with my 9m micros so they're not going to suddenly go away.
 

JohnMarcson

Administrator
May 7, 2010
10,971
Northwest Ohio
Yeah, you basically are forced to use an external flasher. I would use a Whelen UF8. I just grabbed one for $75 shipped on ebay.

You need-

2 frames
4 lens sticks
4 endcaps
4 Freedom corner LEDs
2 400 series LEDs
4 micro specific brackets
2 stud or direct bar mounts
Wiring
1 Flasher

I have the frames, the brackets, the flasher, the wiring, and maybe the mounts if you want them. I can tear them down or I can just sell you the complete 9M micros. They're just strobe instead of LED and they would give you an idea of how to switch out the parts into LEDs.


You would need to find the LEDs, endcaps and the lens (you don't need much lens maybe 2.5 inches each side).

It's something to think about. I'm not going to be doing anything with my 9m micros so they're not going to suddenly go away.
Great deals on the LED internals and flasher



 
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StEaLtH2

Member
Mar 3, 2011
2,159
New England
I am semi local to ya and would be more than happy to assist you as needed to complete said project. It’s really not as complicated as it sounds.
 

JohnMarcson

Administrator
May 7, 2010
10,971
Northwest Ohio
I am semi local to ya and would be more than happy to assist you as needed to complete said project. It’s really not as complicated as it sounds.
It would be a super simple swap from the 9M tubes to freedom parts. Pretty much slide out and back in, add a 400 in which ever way you wan and use a flasher instead of a strobe supply. It's a really fast swap.
 

Frooom

Member
Dec 6, 2012
843
NH
Hmm okay, so it’s doable. I reeaaallly wanted to not have to run new wires front to back *2. Definitely no way to use an internal flasher of some kind?
 

JohnMarcson

Administrator
May 7, 2010
10,971
Northwest Ohio
Hmm okay, so it’s doable. I reeaaallly wanted to not have to run new wires front to back *2. Definitely no way to use an internal flasher of some kind?
You would use as many wires synching it as just wiring it correctly. There really isn't much room in there, you might be able to get a sho-me mini flasher in there but now you have to run the wires to the other light. Depending on your sequencing you need one ground per edge bar, and a positive for each thing you want to flash separately. For example if you want to flash the corners against the rear you just need two positives, 3 wires total. If you want to flash the the left corner and bottom half of the 400 against the right corner and the top of the 400 you still just need two wires, one for each phase or group. You basically end up with a ground and a two positive wires coming out of each bare in most cases. If you put the flasher inside you still have a ground and a positive plus a synch or TWO more wires going to the other edge. You aren't saving wires by putting the flasher inside.
 
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Frooom

Member
Dec 6, 2012
843
NH
You would use as many wires synching it as just wiring it correctly. There really isn't much room in there, you might be able to get a sho-me mini flasher in there but now you have to run the wires to the other light. Depending on your sequencing you need one ground per edge bar, and a positive for each thing you want to flash separately. For example if you want to flash the corners against the rear you just need two positives, 3 wires total. If you want to flash the the left corner and bottom half of the 400 against the right corner and the top of the 400 you still just need two wires, one for each phase or group. You basically end up with a ground and a two positive wires coming out of each bare in most cases. If you put the flasher inside you still have a ground and a positive plus a synch or TWO more wires going to the other edge. You aren't saving wires by putting the flasher inside.

Yikes, this might just get too complicated. The biggest issue I have is my LCS869 has 2 outputs. One of them triggers my front and rear surface mounts, and the other triggers both my SNM ebeacons at the same time via a single positive/ground pair. I'm trying to figure out how I'll need to rewire this. Unfortunately, it seems like the beacons might be the best bet, since they just sync with a single wire. Urgh. Maybe I should focus on figuring out how to make custom straps for my nissan for my millenium. My primary goal was only going to be to have them triple flash alternating, as a singular light. Kind of like the DOT trucks up my way that run these in amber.


Behold my crude diagram of what I have nowUntitled.jpg
 

StEaLtH2

Member
Mar 3, 2011
2,159
New England
In order to upgrade, you would use your existing wires. The only change would be adding the flasher into the mix between the existing switch and the wires before the exit the cab and continue on to they respective beacon. Spots
 

JohnMarcson

Administrator
May 7, 2010
10,971
Northwest Ohio
Yikes, this might just get too complicated. The biggest issue I have is my LCS869 has 2 outputs. One of them triggers my front and rear surface mounts, and the other triggers both my SNM ebeacons at the same time via a single positive/ground pair. I'm trying to figure out how I'll need to rewire this. Unfortunately, it seems like the beacons might be the best bet, since they just sync with a single wire. Urgh. Maybe I should focus on figuring out how to make custom straps for my nissan for my millenium. My primary goal was only going to be to have them triple flash alternating, as a singular light. Kind of like the DOT trucks up my way that run these in amber.


Behold my crude diagram of what I have nowView attachment 240648
You will be running three wires minimum to each beacon and at least 4 total back to the flasher. These are "dumb" steady burn lightheads in a frame. You just need to either use the existing wires and run each head to a port on a flasher or gang the grounds (or positives on a neg side flasher) into one group and the positives (or grounds on a neg side flasher) into two groups (one for phase one and one for phase two). Then you run the two "phases" to a flasher and gang the ground (or positive in neg flasher) and run a single ground. So minimum you have 1 ground, and two powers (one for each phase).

If you have to keep the wiring you could put a small flasher inside one bars and then you would only have to run wires between the two. You could keep the power and ground, run the grounds to both and the power to the one with the flasher. Now use the power and synch wires from the one without the flasher and connect those to you two phases inside the "brain bar".microfinal.png
In this picture you can see the only two wires you need to run to the flasher are positive and ground. Where you put the flasher is up to you. If you put the flasher in one of the edge bars then the only wires you need to run between them is phase 1 (yellow), phase 2 (blue) and ground. That's three wires, which you should have already because each of your existing lights gets power, ground and has a synch between them. So if you put a tiny flasher in a bar you can cut the total number of wires to what you have already.
 
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Frooom

Member
Dec 6, 2012
843
NH
Ok that picture is amazing. *THAT* I can totally do. Is there a compact-ish flasher that can appropriately do this?
 

JohnMarcson

Administrator
May 7, 2010
10,971
Northwest Ohio
Ok that picture is amazing. *THAT* I can totally do. Is there a compact-ish flasher that can appropriately do this?


This flasher is used by "home made" micro systems. It fits in the bar.
micropibnew.jpg

Here is a good view of how the brackets work in the type you want to build
micronew.jpgmicronew2.jpg
 
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Frooom

Member
Dec 6, 2012
843
NH
Yeah I actually reached out to J. Perry inadvertently via ebay, whom is selling a pair of these and says he can essentially sell me what I am considering making ready to go. I'm also still thinking about the millennium I refurbed and am doing nothing with (I lack straps and a programming cable), and we got a new fulltimer at the dept. that does Feniex installs, and he showed me his quad build with something called feniex 1 and I might have messed my pants a bit....
 

tow truck

New Member
Aug 31, 2018
6
wi
I have only 1 new complete amber strobe parts for amber red strobes and several new amber micro400 sets if interested
 

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I know you already found me but figured id post the link for others who are looking
I am actually redesigning these with flashers I had custom made for me, my new models will have patterns, sync and CRUISE mode!
They are built to order in any color/combo needed with NEW lenses

JPerryLighting.com Micro Freedoms
 

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