Mini Jetsonic Wiring Question

[crash_over-ride]

I picked up a Mini Jetstream that I am starting to work towards putting it into service for POV. The final configuration will be two outboard standard rotators, and a fast inboard. I've attached two photos of how it is currently. My question is this.

Looking at the wiring I don't see a spare positive plug to hook the fast center rotator in to. It does have two brown wires with unused plugs, with brown wiring in addition to positive/ground at the cord.

I already have a mini Jetstream with two rotators and two inboard flashers I run off a cig plug with a 15amp fuse. Given this bar's internals,I'm assuming the brown wiring functions as a positive? My thought was to run two wires with cig plugs, one for the outboard rotators, and a dedicated plug for the center fast rotator. I like the thought of being able to control the two separately.
I think amp draws will allow this to happen off a high amp fuse plug based on my experience with the two rotator two flasher bar. How do I work around the lack of a second ground on the external wiring?

I am fairly new/ignorant, so be gentle =-)

 

[JohnMarcson]

The brown wires would be positive in this case. Depending on the age of the motors you would be close to 15 amps with 3 rotators. The bulbs are h1 and on 100% of the time. That puts you at really close to 15 amps just in bulbs.

Bulb Part Number: H1 ; Voltage 12 Volts ; Amperage (at 14 volts) 4.58 ; Wattage (at 14 volts) 55 ; Filament Resistance 2.6 ohms.

The vector motor I have pulls 2.2 amps at 13.8 vdc. I will use my better meter later.

2.2x3=6.6 amps
4.6x3=13.8 amps

That's 20.4 total amps

 

[JohnMarcson]

Here is the best I could do (lowest amp draw).

Long story short you are right at 5.4-5.6 amps per rotator. Also notice the spike at startup in the amp tracing. You are peaking at closer to 6 amps at start. I tried a 9vdc motor (fast speed) anda 12vdc motor (slow) and got +/- .5 amps difference between the two max.



Bulb



Together (fast)

Together (slow)

 

[crash_over-ride]

Thank you very much for pulling out your equipment to measure this. I know my cig plug is rated for 20 amps, so this could be interesting. I've been trying to find a plug with a dual power switch so I can control the center rotator separately, unfortunately all I've found are ones with an interruptor switch.

I have a third mini-jetstream arriving soon that is going to have a center TCL.

 

[JohnMarcson]

Thank you very much for pulling out your equipment to measure this. I know my cig plug is rated for 20 amps, so this could be interesting. I've been trying to find a plug with a dual power switch so I can control the center rotator separately, unfortunately all I've found are ones with an interruptor switch.

I have a third mini-jetstream arriving soon that is going to have a center TCL.

Let me know what happens. This should be close.

A Tcl draws a little more than a rotator because the spring tension against the motor in the Federal design puts some strain on it. But it is really very little difference. You can safely assume that a slow rotator, a fast rotator, and TCL are all +/- .5 amps. The bulb is 90% of your amp draw.

 

[crash_over-ride]

I know it will be mildly blasphemous, but down the road I wanted to acquire another minijet, dual rotator with dual flasher, for the purpose of replacing everything with LED bulbs and putting in a different flasher module. If amp draw turns into a real issue I might switch to LED bulbs if I can find something suitable.

 

[JohnMarcson]

I know it will be mildly blasphemous, but down the road I wanted to acquire another minijet, dual rotator with dual flasher, for the purpose of replacing everything with LED bulbs and putting in a different flasher module. If amp draw turns into a real issue I might switch to LED bulbs if I can find something suitable.

The h1 is one of the few bulbs where some LED replacements are getting decent. Keep in mind that different manufacturers design them for different mounting applications. One LED simulator bulb may be better. That might be worth the try, the bulbs are 90% of the draw.

 

[crash_over-ride]

@JohnMarcson Not sure if you'd know the answer to this. The fast rotator I ordered should be here this week. When I was going through the bar I'm installing it in it looks like I'll need to drill the holes for the mounting screws within the frame slots. That's what it appears was needed to mount the 'V' mirror I took out. Do you know if I am I correct on this?

 

[JohnMarcson]

@JohnMarcson Not sure if you'd know the answer to this. The fast rotator I ordered should be here this week. When I was going through the bar I'm installing it in it looks like I'll need to drill the holes for the mounting screws within the frame slots. That's what it appears was needed to mount the 'V' mirror I took out. Do you know if I am I correct on this?

It depends, but the frame should accept screws for it pretty easily and the rotator grounds to the frame.

 

[JohnMarcson]

Here is a test with a much better condition example using a h1 bulb. There are still peaks at startup for the bulb and motor of about 50% each, but the motor is a very small portion of the total so 50% of less than and amp is nothing compared to 50% of 6 amps. This is a belt driven plastic reflector vs. a gear driven metal one, but still motor amp draw is going to be a very small portion of any given rotator. My previous example was a worst case geared metal rotator.

Startup, just motor 0.12amps

Running no bulb, just motor, .05 amps

Startup with bulb and motor, 6.38 amps

Running with bulb and motor, 3.29 amps

 

[VickyMarsh]

I picked up a Mini Jetstream that I am starting to work towards putting it into service for POV. The final configuration will be two outboard standard rotators, and a fast inboard. I've attached two photos of how it is currently. My question is this.

Looking at the wiring I don't see a spare positive plug to hook the fast center rotator in to. It does have two brown wires with unused plugs, with brown wiring in addition to positive/ground at the cord.

I already have a mini Jetstream with two rotators and two inboard flashers I run off a cig plug with a 15amp fuse. Given this bar's internals,I'm assuming the brown wiring functions as a positive? My thought was to run two wires with cig plugs, one for the outboard rotators, and a dedicated plug for the center fast rotator. I like the thought of being able to control the two separately.
I think amp draws will allow this to happen off a high amp fuse plug based on my experience with the two rotator two flasher bar. How do I work around the lack of a second ground on the external wiring?

I am fairly new/ignorant, so be Ask AI Premium Mod APK=-)

If you plan on running two wires with cig plugs, one for the outboard rotators and a dedicated plug for the center fast rotator, you should also ensure that you have a high amp fuse plug to prevent any potential electrical issues.

 

[crash_over-ride]

I set it up and put it into service. Both plugs are switched, and switched out the fuses for 15A. I even shoehorned mirrors back in. It's utterly ridiculous and unneccessary, but that's half the fun. My latest mini-jet I pulled the diamond mirror and put a TCL in, now all I have to do is bisect a mirror and set it up for rear facing flash.