Need Code 3 Stingray help

OSP959(R)

New Member
Mar 22, 2011
720
Ohio
20200512_015855.jpg
Hey all,

I have a Force 4 mini lightbar with the stingray rotators. The rotators didn't work when I got it, and I finally decided to install the new Stingray relays.

Unfortunately when I put power to it, it doesn't work. :(

Can anyone tell me how I can troubleshoot this?

Looking at the connections in the photo I have:

(1) Black = ground
(2) Yellow = rear only
(3) Blue = should be full circle when powered with yellow
(4) Empty

Looking at the diagram on the back of the relay, it looks like the 4-prong plug is correct. The orange wire is furthest away from the edge of the relay.

Thanks.

20200512_003905.jpg
 

Nolines

Member
Apr 5, 2018
1,678
Margate, FL
Is it possible that the wiring starts from right to left, right being 1 and left being 4??
Ohh never mind I realized that the multi wire connection in front of it was the orange wire reference point.... My bad
 

OSP959(R)

New Member
Mar 22, 2011
720
Ohio
The lamp will light. The mirror doesn't move at all. There's no reaction to power being supplied.

I see the metal Y clips on each side of the rotator. Everything seems intact. I wasn't 100% sure that my connections were correct. If they are, I guess I'll have to start checking for voltage going to the motor.
 

OSP959(R)

New Member
Mar 22, 2011
720
Ohio
The wires at the top of the 4-prong plug wasn't getting a connection. I pushed the wires down deeper and now I'm getting voltage to the motor.

Still doesn't try to turn. I unplugged the relay and tried to jump both sides of the motor. Still nothing. I used an ohm meter and made sure that the body of the motor was making a ground.

Neither motor turns when I apply power. What am I missing? I find it hard to believe that both motors are bad.
 

MtnMan

Member
Dec 20, 2012
1,533
Eastern PA
Are they stepper motors?

Edit to add: On second thought, they're probably not. My next step would be to run the orange and white wires to a different motor and see if it runs.
 
Last edited:

Benno

Member
Jul 17, 2011
364
Germany
I'm guessing that one wire turns the motor one way, and the other wire turns it the other way, and only one wire at a time is getting power. ...
No!
Depending on which direction the rotator should rotate - you have to put +12V on one wire and ground on the other.
 

OSP959(R)

New Member
Mar 22, 2011
720
Ohio
Yes. Ground is properly connected.

So the relay controls which wire is (+) and (-) and switches them depending on direction?

When I had power going to 'Rear only' on the relay there was power at the white wire on the motor. So then the orange wire on the motor wasn't making it's way to ground through the relay?
 
Last edited:

gtpts27

Member
Jul 1, 2017
579
Virginia
I had a set of Stingrays with the first gen brain (your's is the second gen brain so may be different). I don't remember much but I do remember you powered one wire for one function, powered both the first and second wire for the second function, and powered all three for the third function. I also feel like there may have been a jump wire between two terminals but I can't remember for sure. Last but not least, Stingrays had reliability issues. I purchased four complete units and one brain was DOA. The y clips and such also could break, dislodge, etc. I say that to say it's certainly possible the unit is just broken.
 
Last edited:
May 21, 2010
1,256
Minnesota
Yes. Ground is properly connected.

So the relay controls which wire is (+) and (-) and switches them depending on direction?

When I had power going to 'Rear only' on the relay there was power at the white wire on the motor. So then the orange wire on the motor wasn't making it's way to ground through the relay?
The motor should be completely isolated from the frame electrically. If I were to test the motor I would completely disconnect the wiring from the controller and apply 12v to the back of the motor contacts. (That way I wouldnt need to worry about power flowing into the controller wrong). If that makes the motor run I would reverse the polarity as another test. If those 2 work, I would check for continuity between the motor and the frame of the light bar, there shouldn't be any. Have you tried any of that?

I have a bar with stingrays in it. Powering them up will first turn them on to slow rear sweep, then fast front sweep, then full rotation. I have not looked at the wiring of them in quite a while but I can if you have more questions.
 

OSP959(R)

New Member
Mar 22, 2011
720
Ohio
If I use my multimeter and place the black wire on the lightbar frame and the red on the body of the motor, it goes to 0.00 ohms showing it's grounded.

This is why I figured if I unplugged the controller and jumped 12v to one of the motor wires it would spin. Didn't work.
 
May 21, 2010
1,256
Minnesota
Typically, a standard C3 motor will only have one wire going to it. The opposite terminal will have a piece of metal welded from the terminal to the side of the motor casing giving it a ground. You should not have that type of motor setup! The Stingray motor should have 2 wires coming off it going to the controller. Same motor, just different wiring setup. When testing for ground connection, only do it from the terminals sticking off the back (with the motor disconnected from the controller). You should not have an open circuit from either terminal individually. Powering the motor directly with positive on one and ground on the other should tell a lot. Try it and let me know. I am not always the best at explaining things. I could make a video if you are not able to figure it out.
 

OSP959(R)

New Member
Mar 22, 2011
720
Ohio
I finally got this thing working. The problem seems to be the small 4-prong Code 3 connector not making contact.

I don't like that one relay seems to flash the rotator (rotate back and forth) a little slower and farther than the other. That Stingray relay is the newer relay. But....it's working. :D
 
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OSP959(R)

New Member
Mar 22, 2011
720
Ohio
20200514_011826.jpg20200514_011806.jpg

20200514_011755.jpg

I still need to polish the lense and wrap the wires.

Is there a proper lubricant to use on the mechanical parts of the large stinger in the middle, as well as the plastic gears on the rotators?

Thanks to those that replied. :D
 
Last edited:
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Reactions: OliverD
Jun 18, 2013
3,709
PA
late to the party but this thread might help.


Thanks to @Duster for the info
 

lite-em-up

Member
May 23, 2010
116
Eastern Missouri
Two things to consider. These modules don't like dirty power. Only use a well filtered power supply or a 12v battery ONLY. They do all kinds of weird things when powered by a battery charger.
If you want to change the sweep radius switch the brushes on the sides. If you look at them closely you will see that they are not bent symmetrical. This is because the radius of the front sweep is smaller than the rear sweep which gives it the more concentrated effect to the front so just swap sides or pull them out and flip them over. Also make sure you have them on the same way for each side (both wide openings to the front and both smaller openings to the rear)
I've had a lot of experience with these things. I used to work for PSE back when these were in production. One of my favorite lights when they work. Just not too reliable and very finicky.
I once made a 47" LP bar with SEVEN of these things! Every position had one and when they were all on forward mode it was obscene!!
 

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