Recommendations for power distribution

[Da-Sarge]

Hello all im wondering what you all use for power distribution in your setups looking for ideas for power and ground for fusing and cable management type deals

Any recommendations and insight would be greatly appreciated pictures are welcome as well

 

[Sparky_911]

For me it depends on the level of install.
Anything LED gets a 10ga wire from the battery into the cab (w/inline 20a fuse) then to a distribution block (also fused) to switch panel(s) from there. Big enough for a full bar with perimeter lights.
Anything old school (halo,strobe) or leds with add ins (radio,siren,mdc) gets 8ga or bigger with a 50amp inline fuse then same as above.

I always go big on main power, cost is minimal and install time is about the same. Gives the install room for expansion and adds some safety factor in, you know in case the owner tries to add their own stuff...

 

[Da-Sarge]

The vehicle is getting a 0 awg feed for power with a 100A fuse (has alot of radio and a couple halogen remote spot lights) among led lighting both warning and driving lights

 

[Sparky_911]

Whoa....that's way big. Hope they got 2 batteries..

 

[Da-Sarge]

Whoa....that's way big. Hope they got 2 batteries..

Its a truck its got 4 batteries (ambulance package ford F550 with inverter addon pack) so its got tunns of amps to play with lol he wants a single point fuse box setup for all the aftermarket stuff like his winch, scene lights, driving lights, warning lights, air compressor, etc. One fuse block with 0 AWG for winch and other heavy draw stuff and another 0 AWG for the rest all in one location for ease of upgrades or servicing pretty much

 

[Sparky_911]

Rescue or camper conversion?

 

[Da-Sarge]

Its being used for search and rescue and fire brush truck theres alot of gear that needs juice

 

[Da-Sarge]

He told me to order the ones off ebay but I dont think thats the most wise for obvious reasons

 

[Sparky_911]

Yeah, no. Go with something reputable. Might cost more but worth it .

 

[Da-Sarge]

Yeah, no. Go with something reputable. Might cost more but worth it .

What brands do you recommend for doing the dual fuse blocks for the fuse blocks?

 

[Sparky_911]

Blue sea makes some nice ones. Covered with labels. Hella Dorman and littlefuse make some decent ones as well. I used the ATO style non buss in my last install

Way too small for what you're doing though. I'd try to find one with a built in buss tab/bar.

 

[Nolines]

This is the blue sea version I use...

 

[Da-Sarge]

This is the blue sea version I use...

Looks like its got both live and ground bussbars in it do they make these in versions that have 12 circuits? Looks like it would be great

 

[Nolines]

They have a larger one as well... Sorry the cover off picture didn't come through but it has 12, 6 x 6 and same negative side 2 rows per side.

 

[Da-Sarge]

They have a larger one as well... Sorry the cover off picture didn't come through but it has 12, 6 x 6 and same negative side 2 rows per side.

Thats rite up my ally wares the best place to get them? Also battery drain protection whats a good option for that?

 

[Nolines]

I got mine from Strobes R Us in pompano beach fla.. strobesrus.com

 

[Texas1075]

Depends on the complexity and the quality level of installation. Some clients ask for the down and dirty least expensive installation possible, I pass on that business. My current clients get the best installation possible and are willing to pay for that work. My primary power is fused using two or three 100amp bolt down "Mega Fuse" housings and associated fuses with the secondary systems getting a fuse block with 4 Maxi Fuses. About 10 years ago I started using STINGER brand Maxi-Fuse blocks and although they are designed for audio systems they have been excellent fuse blocks with solid connections and 100% reliability. As for battery drain I have switched all my clients into systems like the Whelen CenCOm Carbide or Sapphire that have built in timers to shut down the power after the vehicle is turned off.

If I am working on a Police Package vehicle I use some of the OEM power supply cables for emergency equipment, it's there, it's reliable and I cannot recall ever having a problem with the Ford or GM power. I always run cables to the battery for computers, camera systems, license plate readers and other equipment that needs that uninterrupted power.

I never use any wire not specified for automotive use. I purchase wire from "Wire and Cable Your Way" on the internet and always specify the silicone coated automotive rated wire. I quit using butt splices and solderless connectors about 20 years ago, all my installs are soldered.