Smith and Wesson 7700 Bar (Dietz Omni-Chief)

[Scoot163]

As I stated in a previous post, I found this bar through Craigslist, along with several others.  Wasn't quite sure what it was, but stansdss nailed it as a S&W 7700, made by Dietz.  The red dome has some minor cracks, and the blue dome is intact.  Both can be sanded and polished up well.

I opened up the bar, not so good.  The rubber drive belt is gone or rotted away. Mice had built a nest on the passenger side.  Heavy corrosion on the passenger side.  The driver side not too bad, and when I put power to it all the lights on the driver's side lit up and front PAR 46 flashed.  Passenger side nothing worked.

The motor runs but is noisy.  Pictures below. Latter pics were after I cleaned it out a bit.  Had to use Lysol, a mask, and gloves. To restore, part out, or junk, that is the question.  I am leaning towards trying a restore although I won't get to it until later in the winter and I already know this one will be a lot of work. stansdss, do you remember who made the belt? Thoughts?







/monthly_2015_08/IMG_3298.thumb.JPG.2cd5072b6b88e1b90a3ca14c40d457e7.JPG

 

[Aaron W]

Aerodynamically it is more of a brick than the Twinsonic, but it is kind of neat. Hope you can save it, at least it looks like the lenses and speaker housing are in good shape. Interesting that the mice seem to have limited their nest building to the red side.

 

[ex416]

the belts may not be available any longer. you might want to check out the attached thread. the member fabricated his own belt and got his light running.

http://elightbars.org/forums/threads/what-will-10-buy-you-video-added.51045/#post-460112

 

[Scoot163]

the belts may not be available any longer.  you might want to check out the attached thread.  the member fabricated his own belt and got his light running.

Thanks for finding that thread!  The belt issue looks like an easy fix! May have to gear up for this bar!

 

[stansdds]

Wow, that is a ton of corrosion.  Mouse feces and urine are a nasty combination, highly corrosive and can be dangerous to inhale or touch.   That is a lot of corrosion, but you've already bought the bar, it would be a lot of work, how adventurous and creative are you?  At least the speaker housing and lenses are in good conditions and the lenses are not amber.  I think the majority of the Dietz bars ended up on tow trucks, but I suppose those sold by S&W were overwhelmingly to law enforcement.

 

[lotsofbars]

Well . . . I've seen lots of things, but nothing as terrifying as that rat's nest. Fortunately I've read that getting the belt back together for this kind of bar is relatively easy. That and a little elbow grease can go a long way. Good luck!

 

[Scoot163]

Wow, that is a ton of corrosion.  Mouse feces and urine are a nasty combination, highly corrosive and can be dangerous to inhale or touch.   That is a lot of corrosion, but you've already bought the bar, it would be a lot of work, how adventurous and creative are you?  At least the speaker housing and lenses are in good conditions and the lenses are not amber.  I think the majority of the Dietz bars ended up on tow trucks, but I suppose those sold by S&W were overwhelmingly to law enforcement.

You are very right.  As I said I used a strong disinfectant, mask, gloves and eye protection when cleaning it out.  I may check with a local sandblaster to see if they can blast the frame so that I can repaint.

 

[FF/EMT-B HADEN]

@Scoot163 Let me know If you need any help on making the belts, It's been a while since I made them but I would be more than happy to help in any way to restore that Beautiful Lightbar! Nice grab! 

 

[stansdds]

You are very right.  As I said I used a strong disinfectant, mask, gloves and eye protection when cleaning it out.  I may check with a local sandblaster to see if they can blast the frame so that I can repaint.

The frame is aluminum, so be very careful about sandblasting.  I expect a professional would know just how to clean it without damaging it.

 

[trailertaskforce]

Bead blast......

 

[801]

That's quite the mess inside.  I never would have guessed looking at the outside it could be that bad inside.  I know those are very rare on the west coast and have not seen one in person in 35 years of LE, then fire/EMS work in CA and NV.  My vote would be to restore it, or pass it on to someone that will.  JMHO

 

[Scoot163]

@Scoot163 Let me know If you need any help on making the belts, It's been a while since I made them but I would be more than happy to help in any way to restore that Beautiful Lightbar! Nice grab! 

When the time comes I will definitely take you up on that offer! I've read your post on your Chief restore and was very impressed.

Thank you!

 

[Scoot163]

The frame is aluminum, so be very careful about sandblasting.  I expect a professional would know just how to clean it without damaging it.

Anybody have any ideas on the best way to clean?  The aluminum does not seem to be to the point of being brittle. One new member suggests bead blasting?

 

[stansdds]

Simple Green, a stiff bristled nylon brush, and a garden hose.  That is probably the least expensive way to clean it and should not do any damage to the aluminum.  When you go to clean the outside of the motor, do not use any sort of solvent as even alcohol will dissolve the ink markings.

 

[Wailer]

The Smith and Wesson 7700 bars appear to be more rare than the Dietz Omni Chiefs.   The only S&W bar I ever saw was in a collection in a guy's basement.  It was all red with the California amber blinker cutout on the back of the driver's side cover (kind of like the Squad 51 Twin Sonic).

 

[stansdds]

Only one I ever saw in person was on a U.S. Customs and Border Patrol car stationed in Norfolk, VA.  That was sometime around 1980.  The Dietz version was somewhat popular on tow trucks.

 

[Stampeed Valkyrie]

I am going to 2nd the call for simple green.

Strip the bar to the frame and hit with simple green and a wire brush.  You can use aluminum polish later to make it shiny once clean.   I used this method on my visibar restore.

Good luck

Rob

 

[Scoot163]

Well, even though I have several other projects in various states of disarray, I couldn't resist getting into the S&W today. To my surprise, none of the bolts were seized, even in the highly corroded area of the frame.  I was able to remove everything and get right down to the bare frame.  There is one hex bolt that is rusted to the frame that used to connect the bar to its mounting feet.  I've sprayed that with some rust release and will see what happens.

The stationary par46 holders on the passenger side are badly corroded in places, with pieces actually rusted away.  I think I can still save them.

This is the frame and the passenger side of the frame. Wire brush and simple green here I come...

 

[LRGJr72]

It MUST  be saved!

Are those Par-46 rotators!? I always remember seeing the extra-large sealed beams on Omni-Chief models in the Dietz catalog. But I've NEVER actually seen one in real life. 

As for the belt.. I've read in some other threads where restorations of Omni-Cief lightbars successfully used surgical tubing. 

 

[Scoot163]

It MUST  be saved!

Are those Par-46 rotators!? I always remember seeing the extra-large sealed beams on Omni-Chief models in the Dietz catalog. But I've NEVER actually seen one in real life. 

As for the belt.. I've read in some other threads where restorations of Omni-Cief lightbars successfully used surgical tubing. 

Yes they are Par46 rotators!  I began cleaning the frame today.  Found property tags from Washington County and Marion County.  I believe they are both Counties in Oregon.

 

[JennyCop]

Neat bar, I like it! Must be a bright sucker!

 

[OWSLICHT]

I have these rubber belts which can be made to measure. I used them on my Omni-Chief as well and it worked great.

 

[Scoot163]

I am trying to disassemble the passenger side rotator for cleaning and repair.  It is very fragile due to all the , ahem, mouse urine.  The contacts that the screw terminals of the bulbs press against are disintegrated and broken off so I will have to be creative.  Really not sure how this thing comes totally apart.  I got the top of the PAR Holder off, but need to remove the shaft to totally disassemble. I took the clip off the bottom of the shaft, removed the pulley wheel, but the shaft will still not free up.  Any ideas?

 

[Maxim2Eng]

Soak over night with penetrating oil or WD40. A day would be better. Eastwood Co. has good products to combat rust.

 

[stansdds]

That is in really bad shape.  I see quite a bit of scale.  Soaking in penetrating oil would help and I think Eastwood used to have a product that you could apply to rusty steel that would stop the rust and convert it to an inert oxide.

 

[Scoot163]

Soak over night with penetrating oil or WD40. A day would be better. Eastwood Co. has good products to combat rust.

That is in really bad shape.  I see quite a bit of scale.  Soaking in penetrating oil would help and I think Eastwood used to have a product that you could apply to rusty steel that would stop the rust and convert it to an inert oxide.

Thanks! I finally managed to get it apart yesterday without doing further damage. I really haven't dealt with this much damage before.  Is cleaning not enough? Or do I have to use a product to stop the rust prior to putting it all together?

 

[mkent]

That is a super rare bar..

i have just salvaged a basic omni chief..I used polyurethane belting,cut to length and hot knife both ends,push together and they melt together and stay ultra strong 

 

[Scoot163]

That bar looks great!  Unfortunately, mine won't turn out that pristine due to extensive damage but I will get it working again! It would be great to replace the passenger rotator but probably a snowball's chance that that will happen.  What size of polyurethane belt did you use? Lengths?

 

[Maxim2Eng]

Is cleaning not enough? Or do I have to use a product to stop the rust prior to putting it all together?

I would wire brush the rusty areas and see how they clean up. There may be some serious pitting. The Eastwood product turns rust into a sandable/paintable surface that can help fill the pitting. If it turns out not too bad, then just clear coat with a satin finish to prevent future rust.

 

[Scoot163]

I would wire brush the rusty areas and see how they clean up. There may be some serious pitting. The Eastwood product turns rust into a sandable/paintable surface that can help fill the pitting. If it turns out not too bad, then just clear coat with a satin finish to prevent future rust.

Thanks I will give that a try. Are the Eastwood products just sold online or are they available in stores?

 

[LRGJr72]

That is a super rare bar..

i have just salvaged a basic omni chief..I used polyurethane belting,cut to length and hot knife both ends,push together and they melt together and stay ultra strong 

View attachment 145584

View attachment 145583

View attachment 145582

Stunning!! Do you have pictures of the endcaps? I'd love to see the Dietz Omni-Chief mfg plates. 

 

[mkent]

Stunning!! Do you have pictures of the endcaps? I'd love to see the Dietz Omni-Chief mfg plates. 

 

[mkent]

That bar looks great!  Unfortunately, mine won't turn out that pristine due to extensive damage but I will get it working again! It would be great to replace the passenger rotator but probably a snowball's chance that that will happen.  What size of polyurethane belt did you use? Lengths?

hi,4mm polyurethane belting..your need approx 4m in length.. Real easy to heat the ends and join.stays ultra strong and can never become britle.and costs $10 for 4m..

 

[LRGJr72]

View attachment 145638

BEAUTIMOUS!

 

[Maxim2Eng]

 Thanks I will give that a try. Are the Eastwood products just sold online or are they available in stores?

Eastwood.com

But online and you will get a monthly catalogue in the mail from now until eternity. [emoji4]

 

[Twinsonic12]

I made belts for my S&W 7700 out of 3/16" weedeater fuel line. Pushing the rotators in as far as the mounting screws allow, I got a good approximate length and cut the tubing.

Using good quality super glue, I cut a 2-1/2" long piece of the trimmer line, dabbed glue and pushed the two ends together. They have worked flawlessly for a year and a half, so far.

One belt is a loop, the other, shorter belt, is in a figure 8 pattern.

I'm sure the original poster has done this by now, but thought I'd give my two cents. More of an FYI, really.

 

[Scoot163]

I made belts for my S&W 7700 out of 3/16" weedeater fuel line. Pushing the rotators in as far as the mounting screws allow, I got a good approximate length and cut the tubing.

Using good quality super glue, I cut a 2-1/2" long piece of the trimmer line, dabbed glue and pushed the two ends together. They have worked flawlessly for a year and a half, so far.

One belt is a loop, the other, shorter belt, is in a figure 8 pattern.

I'm sure the original poster has done this by now, but thought I'd give my two cents. More of an FYI, really.

Actually I haven't! This project is still in my standby pile. I will take any help and information I can get. Thank you!