Some questions and help with a F150 isntall

[Fighting17th]

A few questions beft before I get started on my 2006 F150 install.


1. What amp of this should I get? I will be running a 2 or 4 gauge wire through it to the console and powering a lightbar, multiple perimeter lights, scene lighting, radios, chargers, auxiliary outlets, a large power invertor, etc.


2. Is there any type of weatherproof CAT5 connector out there that I wouldn't have to cut the Cat5 cable of the lightbar to install?


Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

 

[MtnMan]

Quick answer to a few of your questions:


DelCity.net is a good source for all kinds of power distribution stuff.


DigiKey, Allied, or Mouser electronics have every kind of multiconductor cable. But I'd probably just use individual wires and loom.


This: powerCON TRUE1 - Neutrik

 

[SlickTop Solutions]

Sorry if this is a lot of writing and information. I’ve been lurking this site for months, learning A LOT from you guys about installs. I’m getting ready to do a complete install on my new 2006 F150 and could use some advice. Since I sold both of my older vehicles to buy one nice truck, I want to make this as professional as possible. I already know how to install/wire/program the lights and equipment itself, and have already learned a lot from you guys about larger light heads, no split fail, slower flash patterns, etc… What I really need some advice on is the core of the install, things like the main wiring concerns and stuff that doesn’t seem to be as easily found in the install threads.

Here’s the plan: I already have all of the lights listed below, so I want to stick with what I’ve acquired through buying/selling/trading, rather than buying new lights. Most of this will be installed at once, with the exception of a few things that will have to wait (like the push bar or bumper).


• Blue Federal Signal Legend Lightbar with TDs and alleys on feet (mounted to headache rack)


• Front push bar or bumper replacement with front Whelen 700s, sides Whelen 400s or Linz6s (blue)


• Towing mirrors with SOS Intersectors (white)


• Cannons in the reverse lights (blue/white)


• 1 cross toolbox and 2 side toolboxes with Linz6, Tir3s, etc. on rear and maybe sides (blue) Compartment lighting inside and underneath.


• Feniex 4200 controller


• Scene lighting: Oledone LED lightbar on front bumper, SNM scene lights facing rear, GoLight remote spotlight possibly on roof


• VHF mobile


• Misc: HT1250 charging dock, Minitor V charging dock, Streamlight Survivor charging dock, power invertor, multiple 12v outlets, possible additional chargers and docks over time.


Here are a few questions I could use some answers to:


1. I know there are different kinds of battery management devices out there. My truck has one battery. I have in my garage a yellow Optima battery from my last truck. Should I install this additional battery and wire everything to it? With this amount of lighting and equipment, should I install any kind of battery management device or put a kill switch on the battery? What is the proper method of wiring two batteries to each other and to the alternator? Any advice on how I should wire the general battery setup would be appreciated.

Leave the factory battery in, no need for a secondary battery. Run ONE large power load from the battery to power distribution and run everything off of power distraction.

2. On most of the installs I’ve done so far, I have used an aftermarket stereo wiring kit to run a 4-6 awg wire from the battery to the console, with an inline MAXI fuse close to the battery. Is there a more “professional” method of running a main power cable, or is this pretty much standard? Also, where can I buy a nice MAXI fuse holder separate?

I prefer a resetable circuit breaker like this one: Hi-Amp Circuit Breakers, Surface Mount - Manual Reset (Switchable)


It makes it real easy to disconnect power when adding additional items, just trip the test switch on the breaker.

3. Where’s the cheapest place to buy multiple conductor wire for running multiple wires to the rear of the truck?

Depending on how many conductors, use strobe cable. It is already rated for automotive use. Some use trailer cable, your mileage may vary.


If you want something built for automotive use, check with a few of the custom wiring companies (there are a couple on here) and see if they will make you what you need.

4. (Not so much for this install because the 4200 has multiple continuous and ignition outputs), but just wondering, what is a good way to “split” a main power cable at the console? I don’t like using the cheap Buss fuse blocks where one power wire comes in and has 6 fused outputs. Our Rescue has what looks like a rubber boot around basically a bolt, that is used to have a power cable come in and connect whatever you want to it. Any idea where I can get a bolt like this?

How do you want to split it? do you mean for separate devices (i.e. controller, radio, chargers, outlets, etc.)? If so, then you want fused distribution and something that will handle the max load. For a fuse panel, I use the Blue Sea fuse blocks with ground tie: ST Blade Fuse Block - 12 Circuits with Negative Bus and Cover - Blue Sea Systems


You were asking about a connection stud: Surface Mount Stud Type Junction Block


They are OK for general power distribution with large cables (8 gauge or larger), but suck when it comes to device distribution and management.

5. In case I need to remove the lightbar, I want to make connections outside before running the wires into the truck. There is one power and one ground wire (probably 10 gauge) and one CAT5 cable. Is there any type of weatherproof CAT5 splitter out there or any idea on how I could make the CAT5 cable disconnectable? Also, what is a good way to make a disconnectable connection on the power and ground cables that is weatherproof?

Look at weather pack connector for both power and the cat5: Weather Pack Connectors

Once again, sorry for the long post but I want this to be as professional and safe for the new truck as possible. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Good luck.

 

[MEVS06]

I have an 08 F150 with 2 Duralast Platinum Series batteries. But the reason I have them is I run my lights for 8 to 14 hrs at a time and need the second battery to make sure I am not up the creek without a paddle at the end of the day. I would recommend the Blue Sea fuse boxes also, if you have strobe cable use that for grill/rear LEDs, its shielded for RF. Use the K.I.S.S. method to the install. You should be fine.

 

[Fighting17th]

Thanks everyone for your answers so far. You have helped me a lot! I have been on DelCity before but for some reason I couldn't find some of the stuff I was looking for, which now I know.


I have updated the original post because a lot of my questions have been answered. Any answers to what's left would be appreciated. Thanks! John

 

[Miller88]

2. The largest wire these able to handle is 12awg according to the site. The wires coming from the lightbar appear to be 10awg. Is there any other type of connector that can handle this large of a wire?


Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Have you ever heard of Anderson Connectors? Heres a link to what they look like:Anderson SB50 Connector Kit for #10/12 AWG Wire they can handle up to 0000 Gauge wire but they make connectors for 10 AWG. If you are concerned about weather proof connectors, they aren't 100% weather-proof but they use them on industrial equipment and the connectors are basically idiot proof. The weatherpack connectors that you linked to should come with pins that will handle 12-10 awg but if you are looking for a different connector, the Anderson connectors are widely used for MUCH heavier electrical loads.

 

[Fighting17th]

Thanks! Updated original post again, wanna get the last few details worked out so I can start ordering a lot of the install supplies and get started next week.

 

[SlickTop Solutions]

A few questions beft before I get started on my 2006 F150 install.

1. What amp of this should I get? I will be running a 2 or 4 gauge wire through it to the console and powering a lightbar, multiple perimeter lights, scene lighting, radios, chargers, auxiliary outlets, a large power invertor, etc.

100 Amp minimum, since you will be running quite a bit with regards to lighting larger is better.

2. Is there any type of weatherproof CAT5 connector out there that I wouldn't have to cut the Cat5 cable of the lightbar to install?


Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

What you are looking for are weatherproof RJ-45 telco connectors: RJ45 Waterproof Connectors Series - ASSMANN | DigiKey


The above is weather proof and screw together/screw apart.

 

[Fighting17th]

Thanks, I think that's exactly what I'm looking for for the RJ45 cable! But I'm a little confused on how those work. Do they make a male and females that screw together, or would I have to drill a larger hole in my truck to mount the female end and plug the male end into that?

 

[SlickTop Solutions]

Thanks, I think that's exactly what I'm looking for for the RJ45 cable! But I'm a little confused on how those work. Do they make a male and females that screw together, or would I have to drill a larger hole in my truck to mount the female end and plug the male end into that?

You need a plug: Wetherproof plug


You need a jack: Weatherproof jack


The jack will either need to be mounted to the roof, or preferably, to the bottom of the light bar housing. Either way, you will need to cut the cat5 cable and wire end of the cut to the jack and the other end of the cut to the new plug.

 

[Fighting17th]

Perfect. I think the best setup would be to make the hole and connection into my toolbox on the rear of the truck, then run from there back out of the toolbox and to the interface module.

 

[shues]

100 Amp minimum, since you will be running quite a bit with regards to lighting larger is better.



What you are looking for are weatherproof RJ-45 telco connectors: RJ45 Waterproof Connectors Series - ASSMANN | DigiKey


The above is weather proof and screw together/screw apart.

Assmann Waterproof RJ45 Plugs & Jacks are well suited for communications systems

What a brand name!