Thank you! To plug the break out box into the computer do you just unplug the LAN cable from the “lightbar” port on the breakout box and then plug in a LAN cable from there to the computer? I don’t see and extra LAN port.I might be able to help. It's been a few months since I've used the software though.
You’re the man!Nope, no need to unplug the LAN. It's actually a micro-USB port on the breakout box that is used to connect to the computer. Obviously you'll need a USB A male to USB mini-B cable (super cheap on Amazon).
The DIP switches can stay in their normal position - I didn't change any DIP switches when Iast programmed an nForce interior bar.
Hopefully that helps.
John, I am actually not sure if it is a BluePrint car or not but I have been curious about that myself. It would make this a lot easier if that is the case. I am just an officer who was issued this vehicle.Slight correction, it is a mini USB port on the breakout box, not micro. Like he stated, simply plug the breakout box into the laptop via a USB male to mini USB male. Then use the program to download the current flash map, and save that as a default/backup, then play around and upload it as you see fit.
As far as configuring how the lightbar changes with other vehicle inputs (ie Park), that all has to be done via BluePrint or physical wiring. Literally all the lightbar control software can do is flash patterns and stuff related.
Is your car a BluePrint car or not?
This is all great information and is exactly what I was looking for when I came to this forum. I really appreciate all the insight.My biggest gripes about BluePRINT:
1) Aside from the main nForce light bars, all other lighting modules must be on the same flash pattern when flashing. For example, my car has nForce and mPower modules all over it. So I cannot have my rear license plate mPowers go "slow runner" while the front/side lights go "quint".
2) There can only be 3 buttons on the control panel that have double push capability. So my Arrow, Cruise, and Cage buttons are my 3, but I wish I could have another.
3) The printed button diagrams on the control panel itself can't be changed. Radio rebroadcast is something I have never used in a decade. So I programmed that button to be a rear light pursuit kill, which is great, except it still says Radio rebroadcast.
4) Lastly, and this is about the nForce light bars, the simultaneous flash patterns are fairly limited. The patterns themselves are not, but to get simultaneous flashing there's only a couple. Basically I wanted to program my rear bar to do the CHP rear pattern (Amber slow alternating with red and blue). There's only 1 pattern that makes this possible, and I'm not particularly impressed with it.
Nice. My control head is almost identical but is labeled nErgy instead. I was really surprised how hard it was to find detailed info on these more modern bars and control heads. Even reading the manuals from SoundOff left me with a bunch of silly questions. I figured maybe it was just because my questions were so simple that anyone with any kind of experience would just know already.So here is the BluePRINT control head, I believe the other ones look similar but say energy or something like that.
I will be on, and I'll be happy to help. I taught myself how to use the BluePRINT and Lightbar software, and it took a while. Just so you know, it's pretty much impossible to screw up to the point that flashing your default map won't fix it. You really can't do any permanent or component damage.
That's one of my biggest complaints about this forum, so much info on twin Sonic's and aerodynics and hardly any info or knowledge for products built in this century. I'm glad someone else actually has LED's.
John, your help was spot on! I’ve got it all configured just the way I wanted. Quick and easy. Thanks again!Gotcha, so ya your car isn't BluePRINT capable. So it's got the same lightbar, just without the additional vehicle integration. So lightbar changes can be made via the Lightbar software, but any other changes would involve wiring.
So, for the bar, it's important you begin by downloading from the breakout box, and saving, the current configuration/map. Although the bar software is relatively simple and easy, you still don't want to be rebuilding a map from scratch when you mess something up and can't figure out what.
So in the photos below, once you plug it in, the "down" arrow I highlighted will be active. That'll download the current map. Prior to download it'll ask you if you want to save the current map, click no as that'll be a bare skeleton map. Once the map downloads the screen will change a bit, looking like my second picture. Now, before you proceed, click the disk button, save as, and save it as Default or something like that. That's important.
Now you're free to play around, just ask if you have any questions. Sadly there's no way to get a preview what changes you made and what they will do, you have to flash/upload the config/map, then test it by starting the car and pushing buttons.
The first tab, Lightbar Modules, is basically the "building" of the bar, so the program knows how your bar is setup via colors and such. You won't mess with much on this tab. You can see mine is an 8 head, dual color, RW/BW/RA/BA. The letters below each module are coded at the top, so you can see only the inner 4 front modules do "Steady On," which I use for Code 1.
The second tab, flash patterns, is where you'll do a lot of your playing. I'm familiar with this tab, so ask away.
The third tab, Breakout Box Inputs, isn't utilized on my car since I have BluePRINT. It is probably used on your car, but I didn't learn it, so I won't be of much help.
Right now I’ve got the inter cycle pattern for stage 1 and 2. Stage 1 rear only, stage 2 front and rear. Red on the driver side, blue on the passenger side. Stage 3 is Warp123 with a bunch of white light mixed in.Awesome glad I was able to help!
What do your patterns look like now? Is it a dual color bar or single?
My rear pattern is a CHP pattern, which requires setting the rears to roadrunner simultaneous, then the outside 4 modules to red and blue on color 1, no color 2, and the inside 4 amber on color 2, no color 1. It works alright, but not as good as I'd like. There's a pause where no lights are on that looks weird.
Stage 1 in the front just steady burns the inside 4 red/blue modules. Stage 2 uses slow runner, colors red and blue only. State 3 is the "Impact" pattern.
The short answer is: It all depends how the vehicle is wired. For mine, the “Phase 1” siren is what the vehicle defaults to when it is shifted into park. Phase 2 is when you get into actual switch position.Also, with the breakout box, the light patterns have four phases. Why are there 4 phases for a 3 position slide switch?
It seems like the vehicle has BLUEprint, because the third page of breakout box inputs does not download or auto populate. How would I adjust which lightbar lights to come on during a braking situation?
This is easy to do either way, but I don't want to type double. We need to know if it's bluePRINT controlled first.So,
My vehicle has MPower light heads. Right now they flash red/off/red/off and blue/off/blue/off. How can I make them flash red/blue from the same light head? Only certain lightheads are programmed to do this function, but I don't see it in Lightbar configuration tool. The only thing that shows up is the lightbar.
Me thinks you don't know what you're talking about. None of your posts have been deleted. However, don't let the door hit you on the ass on your way out...Fuck this site. Delete half my comments? Fine, people can help themselves. Literally the only person here willing to share any knowledge on how to use the SOS software, and you're going to delete my posts? Go fuck yourselves.
It's like the good ol' days.... I can hear the bell for "the Ring" in the distance. Love that the clown has been on several times since and is just lurking. Guess the site isn't so bad that he wants to stay away.... just enough to act like a three your old throwing a tantrum.I'm just here to watch the fall out...