Suggestions for lighting Equipment for unmarked/POV 2018 Chevy Silverado

[RyanZ71]

Hi gang- I recently purchased a new to me 2018 Chevy Silverado 2500. I'm going to need to get this sucker set up with some good amber and white lighting for now, with the possibility of changing over to red, amber, and white later on once I resume with a volunteer FD. Right now I am doing some side work (construction and related) that has me on highways and streets, thus the need for amber only at this time. So something to where I can run amber for now but have the ability to easily change out the light heads/modules to red and other colors as needed, or be able to have programming that allows all amber/white for my side gig work, and red/amber/white for volunteer FD use.

Got any suggestions on what I should research? I'd like hideaways as much as possible and I have a sliding rear window so no straight bars across the back upper windshield, but could do left side and right side. Also, there is a tinted strip on the upper front windshield too.. not too happy with that and I am willing to get it removed if needed to add better lighting to the upper section of the windshield.

Of note- I am very anal about light syncing patterns, I hate messy blobs of light or X-type patterns. Side to side or bust for primary lighting.

Thank you!

Ryan

 

[Bobcat753]

I have a 2015 2500 and interested to see what you do. I have a 54” Liberty that I plan on putting on my truck.

 

[RyanZ71]

Should have an idea soon. Exploring options and going to go to an up fitter near here for some opinions and quotes. (L.A.W.S.)

 

[Tango7]

I'm in a similar situation, as I'm an electrician and firefighter who just bought an F150, and wanted the ability to use amber for job sites, blue for FD/EMS response, as well as the option (if possible) of running them simultaneously if ever needed.

The choices it seemed I had were to install two separate systems or a single system using dual-color heads. I went with the latter because while the heads are nearly double the cost of single-color units, there's only a single extra wire that needs to be run, rather than a complete duplicated wire harness.

My only sticking point other than cost (big difference between chinesium and quality gear, but I want the stuff to last, so buy once, cry once) is in that I wanted a multi-level warning system and control of what color was active, but I'm not trying to make my truck into a department or utility vehicle, which is what I thought would happen installing a big control panel or a CenCom/SmartSiren head, even though even a Gold should've been able to fill my needs.

My plan is to use a modernized Unitrol 330 mounted to the top of the left dashboard with the slide switch activating perimeter, rear and front warning; split switch 1/2 (run to relays) will enable power going to the blue or amber leads, and the other split switch (3/4) will provide directional control for a TA bar in the back window. Siren controls will be switches hidden on the side of the dash by the window.

 

[Tango7]

Just looked back on this - IMHO it looks like you have the following options at this point re the whole install:

1 - determine if you want multi-level warning (front/side/rear) or just on/off.
2 - decide if you want the warning levels to be the same for both fire and construction.

If you decide you want all lights you're installing to be fully capable for any and all tasks - just not now - I would suggest deciding if you want to eventually upgrade your Amber to R/A/W or just R/A. Why? Because when you're laying out your wiring I would suggest installing extra conductors on each run for future upgrades. Adding two spare wires to the Hot / Ground / Sync for additional colors in the future (or using 16/5 cable instead of 16/3) will allow you to simply attach the leads in the appropriate places when you upgrade in the future without having to undo everything and get dirty again.

If you decide you want "X" lights to be dual purpose, "Y" lights to be for construction and "Z" lights for fire, then you can adjust your runs as needed (duh). Just make sure you leave a little extra and seal off the ends (heat shrink tubing) so they don't get corroded.

Plan it out ahead of time. I never thought I'd be thankful for not having tons of cash to just buy my parts and get cranking on installation, but having to budget and wait has actually helped me fine tune my process and what I'm going to need. If you're a visual person and need help drawing out the circuits, the Digi-Key company offers a free program called Scheme-it that I've found really useful. While it doesn't have every possible part, it has enough items that can be repurposed and labeled as you need to help visualize the end result.

As far as how they're activated (switch box, relay panel, digital), which brand and which flash pattern? Brother, that's all yours.

 

[RyanZ71]

Thanks for the info!!