TakeDown Alley Flasher (Complete)

Dragon

Member
May 27, 2010
52
Mississippi
Several boards back there was a discussion on a flasher that would flash the TakeDown and Alley lights in a bar that had hallogens in those locations, and would override to solid if the TakeDown or Alley feature was activiated.


Does anyone know the manufacturer and model of of a flasher that will work.


Going in a JetStrobe bar.
 

jdh

Member
May 21, 2010
1,555
Geneva, FL
Whelen Code-3 and Frderal all have boards that will do just that, or you can take two 537's or any type of flasher(one for the TD's and one for the alleys) and 4 dioids, and DIY.
 

shues

Lifetime VIP Donor
May 21, 2010
10,276
NW Indiana
A Code 3 Multiple Mode Flasher (700, 710, or 711) has the a terminal to which you provide +12v to override the flashing lights into steady burn mode. You would probably need to install three flashers into your lightbar: one for takedowns, one for the left alley, and one for the right alley, unless you wanted all of these lights to steady burn together.
 

Dragon

Member
May 27, 2010
52
Mississippi
Thanks C3Chuck, Looks like just the ticket.


Anyone else have the FEDSIG or Whelen models so I can do some price comparisons?
 

Uman18

Member
Jun 2, 2010
423
Port Hueneme, CA
In the federal signal bars, Streethawks to Vistas to Arjents Cuda Bars Ive parted out, they didn't have 1 flasher to flash the alleys or fronts. They had FA3 flashers wired up with a "Y" connector and a diodes (see pic, from one of the bars). I don't recall how to wire it up but do remember seeing on an older steethawk install sheet how to wire up the alleys to flash.


ai177.photobucket.com_albums_w213_uman18_DSC00247.jpg
 

Dragon

Member
May 27, 2010
52
Mississippi
I can see that Y cable working. One side connected to the flasher I already have runing on a set of rear flahers, and the other hooked up to the alley or takedowns whichever I choose to make flashers.


Last time I used a diode for something similar I got one out of an air conditioner unit of an old car. Did not know what I was doing really but the city mechanic pulled it for me and gave it to me and gave me the idea. It was no where near as neat as that Y cable but it worked.


Does anyone know a diode type and source similar to what may be in the shrink wrap on the Y cable pictured that I can use to build my own?
 

Dragon

Member
May 27, 2010
52
Mississippi
Before I buy some diodes I want to check again with someone with more tech experience than myself. Now I have some more specifics on what I am trying to do. Is the SRP600A-E3/51 still the right choice?


The JetStrobe uses 50 Watt-12.80Volts-3.91Amp bulbs in the takedown and alley lights. I want to flash 1 alley and one takedown at a time against the other alley and takedown. I think the limiting factor is the flasher if it can handle 100 watts and 7.82 amps per side. As long as the individual diodes can handle it I am OK (right)?


I see how the power is kept from flowing back into the takedown when operating the flashers in the diagram provided by EVModules. But I dont see how it is stopped from going back into the flasher when just the takedowns are used. To me it seems like two diodes are needed.


Here is a mock up of my plan. Can anyone give some advise on the right diode to use?


ai189.photobucket.com_albums_z43_DragonHunter00_YCable.jpg


I called Mouser but they were of no help. Said they could not get into offering design advise.
 

shues

Lifetime VIP Donor
May 21, 2010
10,276
NW Indiana
I use a Radio Shack full wave bridge rectifier (Part No. 276-1185) for situations such as these. The full wave bridge rectifier has 1/4" male terminals, and a mounting hole through the center. I've found that both of these features make it ideal for 12v automotive work. The picture on Radio Shack's web site is poor; here is a picture that does a better job of illustrating the product.


[Broken External Image]:http://www.b2b-rectifier-manufacturer.com/rimages/611/MBR2505-Bridge-Rectifier.jpg


http://www.radioshack.com/product/index ... Id=2062584


Electrically, a full wave bridge rectifier is four diodes arranged in a square, and is usually used to convert AC into DC.


[Broken External Image]:http://www.robomo.com/electronics/electronics/rectifier_full_wave.gif


If you want to have a lamp that can either flash or steady burn:

  • connect the lamp's power wire to the DC + terminal
    connect the steady burn power wire to one AC terminal
    connect the flasher output wire to the other AC terminal



Be wary of the voltage drop through the full wave bridge rectifier. Like any diode, the voltage drop will be around 0.5 to 1.5 volts. If you are overly worried about this voltage drop, consider installing a relay whose coil is operated by the output of the full wave bridge rectifier.
 

Dragon

Member
May 27, 2010
52
Mississippi
Got this project done. For anyone else interested in similar, the diodes at Mouser.com cost more to ship than the diodes themselves. So I did a little more surfing and found what I think is the same thing at Radio Shack.


6A, 50V Rectifier Diodes (4-Pack) $2.49


Model: 276-1661 | Catalog #: 276-1661


http://www.radioshack.com/product/index ... Id=2062591


I had already installed a high speed headlight falsher that was left over when our agency replaced them all with strobes in the headlights. This was set up on an extra set of rear flashers but I changed it to work on the takedowns now.


Works great. Flashes when turned on and I can turn on my take downs and it over rides the flasher and burnes steady. Just what I wanted. Now I will be making a set for the alley lights.


ai189.photobucket.com_albums_z43_DragonHunter00_100_0123.jpg
 

Dragon

Member
May 27, 2010
52
Mississippi
I have noticed that when the takedown lights are flashing they are not as bright as when they are steady burning. I dont think it is due to the diode. What I think is happening is that the high speed flasher is not allowing the bulb to get to its maximum brightness before it is turned off.


Does this sound right to anyone else?


If so then does anyone have a lower flash rate flasher that will work ?
 

shues

Lifetime VIP Donor
May 21, 2010
10,276
NW Indiana
Dragon said:
What I think is happening is that the high speed flasher is not allowing the bulb to get to its maximum brightness before it is turned off. Does this sound right to anyone else?

As I mentioned above using any diode will cause a voltage drop of anywhere between 0.5 and 1.5 amps. Used a multimeter to check the voltage both before and after the diode, and you'll see what I mean. However, using too fast of a flasher will cause a much more visible problem.


What flasher are you using? An FA3, which operates at 90 fpm, should be relatively inexpensive here on the board.
 

rwo978

Member
May 21, 2010
5,196
ND, USA
Thinking of doing a trial build. Are these idiot proof?? I've never used diodes. I know they're direction specific. The 'ring' on the diode goes on the 'load' side? Have a good supply of FA3 flashers to use for something.. :yes:
 

Dragon

Member
May 27, 2010
52
Mississippi
SHUES, I saw your post about the voltage drop. But the way I figured it, since both feeds (steady and flashing) have a diode in line and one is brighter than the other then I ruled it out as the problem. I do plan to test to see what the voltage drop is.


Still leaning to the flasher. If I remember right the sticker on the flasher was almost faded away but when I test the line I will check to see what I can get off it.


RWO978, I would say they are idiot proof.
 

rwo978

Member
May 21, 2010
5,196
ND, USA
Is the Y setup with 2 diodes required for each light? Such as, in a standard bar setup with 2 TD and 2 alleys. you'd need 4 Y's
 

WS224

Member
Nov 28, 2010
1,049
West Tennessee
Or you could use any headlight flasher and run the "steady on" switch wire to the hi beam over ride wire on the flasher. The flashing stops and the lights burn steady. Just like magic without all the diodes and other BS.


One flasher could be used, but would either steady on ALL of the takedowns and alley's or flash All of them. To work independently, you would need two flashers.
 

rwo978

Member
May 21, 2010
5,196
ND, USA
WS224 said:
Or you could use any headlight flasher and run the "steady on" switch wire to the hi beam over ride wire on the flasher. The flashing stops and the lights burn steady. Just like magic without all the diodes and other BS.

One flasher could be used, but would either steady on ALL of the takedowns and alley's or flash All of them. To work independently, you would need two flashers.

But, everything flashes together (alleys syncd with takedown) and using just a HLF, you'd lose the ability to steady burn the lights independantly.
 

WS224

Member
Nov 28, 2010
1,049
West Tennessee
rwo978 said:
But, everything flashes together (alleys syncd with takedown) and using just a HLF, you'd lose the ability to steady burn the lights independantly.

Yep, that's what I said in paragraph 2.
 

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