TwinSonic calling me part 2

I previously posted on a TwinSonic I planned on looking to buy. Well I bought it today and it's exciting. I've really had no interest in a TwinSonic but it has grown on me.

This one certainly has some flaws and overall it is real good shape, no cracked or crazed domes, speaker is in there which is cool, being that it is a TwinSonic. This bar came from a firetruck. I'll let the video to the talking rather than writing a novel. Please excuse the crappy video I get nervous plus excited at the same time and I stutter a bit lol. Hope you all like it!

Running video

 

[Stampeed Valkyrie]

The chrome you talk about is actually a stainless steel strip that can be slid off the bar when the endcaps are off. Might have some difficulty if its banged up abit, but TBH I probably would leave it as is, you might be able to use a mallet and flatten the dents out by smacking it back against the frame.

I would ditch the lense filters and try to locate some colored par36 gels, this would allow you to change the colors of the bulbs and have it look more natural.

Nice bar, polish those domes and your good to go.

 

[AuroraBorealis]

First of all, no need to apologize for any physical impediment (which I didn't detect anyway). Congratulations on finding this 12X which is in pretty decent shape and you'll see how simple it is to work on/clean once you take the speaker cover and lenses off. I agree with @StampeedValkyrie to remove the filters and get some original colored bulbs--red and white look really good with the X reflectors and clear lenses one they're polished up.

There should still be quite a few archived posts on Twinsonics here for reference. Good luck and good find!

 

[Eric2.0]

So the filters are not original to a twinsonic then? Are they just some cheap Walmart filter caps they stuck on there?

I'll look into this and I bet getting original bulbs will be difficult.

I'm having trouble sliding the domes off the frame. Took off end caps and the domes won't budge. I'm afraid of cracking the domes trying to force them off so I might spray some lube in there.

Must be the filters flood out a ton of light because it's not that Brite at all...well as tested in direct sunlight, should be a little brighter I would think.

 

[Benno]

Nice find!

The chrome you talk about is actually a stainless steel strip that can be slid off the bar when the endcaps are off. Might have some difficulty if its banged up abit, but TBH I probably would leave it as is, you might be able to use a mallet and flatten the dents out by smacking it back against the frame.

The dents in the stainless steel strip were caused by oxidation of the aluminum frame. Due to this oxidation, it will be difficult to remove the strip (without causing further damage).
If you want to fix it you might need a nicer strip to replace the existing one and you have to clean of the oxidation from the frame.

 

[Benno]

I'm having trouble sliding the domes off the frame. Took off end caps and the domes won't budge. I'm afraid of cracking the domes trying to force them off so I might spray some lube in there.

The domes cannot be slided of! To remove the domes, the speaker cover must also be removed and then you can take of the domes.

 

[Eric2.0]

The domes cannot be slided of! To remove the domes, the speaker cover must also be removed and then you can take of the domes.

Thanks. I assumed that because of the end plates that come off, like my other bars domes usually slide, but now I know.
I actually got the domes off except for one side which won't budge.

First look at the speaker quite big, it's model TS-24. I know nothing about those.

Inside the bar looks fair and complete and it does have a share of corrosion it would definitely need to be taken apart and cleaned piece by piece

 

[dmathieu]

Those colored lenses "filters" are for typical 4" lollipop directional lights. Because they stick out so far you'll probably need new bulb holder clips due to these being mis-shapen to fit those lenses.

 

[Eric2.0]

Those colored lenses "filters" are for typical 4" lollipop directional lights. Because they stick out so far you'll probably need new bulb holder clips due to these being mis-shapen to fit those lenses.

Ok, good info

Not sure what it will take to get original bulbs and lenses...probably a lot of money lol.

Here is a video once I got the dome and covers off. Definitely not the cleanest inside.

Would this be a good candidate for a restoration, or should I part it out.

 

[Maxim2Eng]

The TS25 is a 58 watt speaker (can’t be used with a 100 watt siren). The dimples in the stainless trim is from corrosion on the frame behind the trim. Removing the trim can be accomplished with finesse and great patience. I would go for a restoration but know that removing the steel screws from the extruded aluminum frame will almost guarantee a broken screw every time. Use a good penetrating oil and let it sit 24 hours before attempting to unscrew them.

I use Rust Prevention Magic (RPM) to stop rust after cleaning parts…it really is magic, but pricey ($35 on Amazon)…found out about it watching an episode of Graveyard Cars.
I’ve ordered 4416R bulbs from O’Reilly Auto parts…about $10.

Good luck and keep us posted on your progress!

 

[Benno]

Would this be a good candidate for a restoration, or should I part it out.

Looks not too bad to me!

After a thorough cleaning, some polishing (hoods, mirrors, etc.) and a few spots fresh black paint, the TwinSonic should look quite neat again.

Here is a before/after from a cleaning I've done some years ago:

 

[shues]

You will struggle to find colored 4464 sealed beam bulbs. You can, however, still find colored 4416 sealed beam bulbs. They're still being made, almost certainly overseas. Original equipment would have been colored sealed beam bulbs made by GE, I believe, which are generally getting quite hard to find in NOS condition.

 

[ccsd834]

Shues is quite correct. Difficult to find new but not impossible. I have bought several boxes of GE replacement bulbs from ATR Lighting, and all have worked flawlessly. They have 4464s in RED (https://www.atrlighting.com/item/35875prd/) and BLUE (https://www.atrlighting.com/item/42240ics/) but certainly are not cheap $28.00 each). You'll find the 4416s in RED & BLUE for about $17.00 each; however, AMBER is a whopping $41.00 each. Some GE and some generic. ReplacementLightbulbs.com has a generic AMBER at only $20.00, but I have not used their product yet. Neither have 4464s by GE - only generic. So, as Shues said, replacements are out there - just depends on your price point and how true to original design you want to be.

 

[Eric2.0]

I took off the plastic lenses and got totally surprised. They were just stuck over the original GE, red and white bulbs. Pretty cool and the original bulbs colored looks very nice.

 

[Maxim2Eng]

Score!
To turn glass red, gold is added to the molten glass.

 

[Eric2.0]

Score!
To turn glass red, gold is added to the molten glass.

Well I learned something new.

I'll get back to everyone in a couple of days. I was in a bad bicycle accident a few days ago, broke my elbow and face is stitched up. I've been hobbling around my place, playing with my lights, but not much else.

The gentlemen I got this twinsonic from, just posted to me the other bàr he has. I believe it is a code 3 SD?... Looks almost like a twinsonic, but seems to have 4 sealed beam rotators, interesting. I told him I'll come see it after I recover a little bit.

I'm really starting to like these boxy bars now

 

[ccsd834]

You are correct, Eric2.0. That is a Code 3 Model 2200 usually referred to as an "SD" bar. Eight sealed beam rotators with V mirrors to the front. The inboard rotator lamps are 90 degrees from each other, which gives a unique flash pattern for sure. A YouTube search will show you that pattern. Two independent motors that sit behind those V mirrors. It's an amperage hog, but I it's always been one of my personal favorite style of rotator bars. Having used them extensively 40+ years ago, very effective back in the day, IMHO. Here is a flyer on it.