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Wall mounted displays help

Straypuft

Registered Member
#1
I hope its not too much trouble to post in this topic as I see it has been bumped a few times..

I am looking at Rubbermaids Fasttrack Garage organizer bracket rail thingy: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Rubbermaid-FastTrack-Garage-47-1-2-in-H-Upright-1784367/100592310 . But I might have a problem, I do not know if my old 2009 era stud finder is working properly or if I have metal studs in my apartment as the stud finder wont detect those and its not detecting anything except at the corners in my apartment, Rubbermaid has a hardware screw kit that comes with weird wall anchors https://www.homedepot.com/p/Rubbermaid-FastTrack-Garage-Rail-Hardware-Pack-1784975/202868026

If those anchors are not recommended, then Id assume something like these would be better?: https://www.homedepot.com/p/E-Z-Anc...l-Anchors-with-Screws-10-Pack-25220/100153998

I plan on putting a Whelen Liberty and a FedSig Streethawk on this thing but am worried about the rail system coming off the wall if I were to use any wall anchors with my drywall wall. If anyone thinks there shouldnt be any problems, I might put a FedSig Arjent SL on there as well, but Id be happy with just the first 2 mentioned bars.

This cannot be a permanent install as I plan on slapping on some wall compound into the holes after taking everything down if I were to move out of this place. I have used wall joint compound on holes in a previous apartment in this building and have had no complaints from management about it.
 
#2
I recently researched this topic myself as I was hanging some heavy items on sheetrock. Although these toggles say they can hold #100 that is generally a straight down weight. Such as a heavy mirror or picture. The weight drops dramatically when you are applying an outward pressure. Shelves do not just push straight down they also pry outward. 1/2" sheetrock can not sustain a heavy outward pressure. One sources says "you might successfully hang a 25 lb.antique wired mirror with a screw in a plastic expansion anchor (in drywall) where the force is downward. The same anchor and screw might not be able to support a 25 pound cabinet if the cabinet tends to pull the anchor outward... which means destroyed valuables!! It's all relative. Strength, that is."

The type of anchor is not as important to think about as the type of drywall. In almost all applications now it is only 1/2" plaster with thin paper holding it together.

This video may be of some help in choosing anchors. But doesn't address the outward pressure on drywall. You will find no reference anywhere on mounting shelves on anything but a stud.

 

shues

Gold Supporter
#3
You can use a rare earth magnet to locate the drywall screws that secure the drywall to the studs. This takes a little time, but it is possible. Use a pencil to mark the screws you find. Once you have made two marks directly above or below one another, you can be reasonably sure you have located a stud.
 
#4
Also keep in mind that some structures use fewer metal studs for non bearing walls. This means you can not add much additional weight to them. Where I work they would not hang 4 computer monitors on the wall because it would not support the weight with the few metal beams. I think they were 24" or more on center.
 

Wolfie

Site Regular
#5
If you want to find the studs, try this:

Find an outlet box on that wall. While wearing insulating gloves, push a good sharp ice-pick type object through the drywall about ½-¾" from the left and right sides of the outlet box. The insulating gloves are important, because even if you kill power to that room, someone may have ran cheap romex through that wall for a different room. Without pushing hard, that tool should go right through the drywall. If the tip stops about ½" in, you have likely hit a stud. Measure 16" to either side, mark it, and try to slip the tool in again. Repeat until you have felt enough studs. If, after that first ½", the tool slips in like nothing, you are not on a stud. Patch that hole and poke somewhere else. At no point should you strike the tool with anything to "make it" go through the wall. Drywall is soft enough to let even thumbtacks in with ease. It's just compressed powder between a couple sheets of 4x8' paper. If you use this method, poke your holes at the same height you would like to install the shelves at and you won't have to start patching holes until the day they come down. Oh, in case you haven't figured out why you have to start by the outlet box, no electrician would have let the box hang in the wall without securing it to a stud.
 

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