Weekend CL find Beaconray 176

Stampeed Valkyrie

Senior Member
Silver Supporter
Must be Beaconray weekend..

I found this light locally on CL, I think I got an OK deal on it. Seller originally had this light listed at $500 and wondered why it didn't sell.

Needs some TLC, deciphering the tag puts it at Feb 1963. Glass dome and overall seems to be in good shape.
I'll dive more into it time permitting.. needs the plastic/fiber board repaired.. probably just some adhesive and should be good to go. The gasket for the dome and the base both need to be replaced both are suffering from pretty heavy dry rot. Also need to replace the 4 lamps.. seller replaced all of them with LED.

Optimized-20210123_144015.jpg
 
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Stampeed Valkyrie

Stampeed Valkyrie

Senior Member
Silver Supporter
So I started doing some repairs, went with the most critical first, the plastic/fiber board that the brush is mounted to, along with the mount points for power distribution was cracked clean in half. The odds of me finding a replacement for this are pretty nil, but this one is able to be repaired with some adhesive and some time. I also ordered a replacement gasket kit to replace the dry rotted ones on there now.

before

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after

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Stampeed Valkyrie

Stampeed Valkyrie

Senior Member
Silver Supporter
More time to work on this.. better picture of what I am starting with and the dome.

Optimized-20210129_183447.jpg

Some slight scratches on the top, and a ring of rubber residue on the bottom. I figured I could take a buffer to this and get this polished. Any other suggestions?

Bulb cage is actually in decent condition overall, I'll start by cleaning it.

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I need to make sure I understand the wiring of the bulb cage..

Hot comes from brush on the bottom, then over and on top of center?
Ground goes directly into bulb cage?

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Stampeed Valkyrie

Stampeed Valkyrie

Senior Member
Silver Supporter
So some clarification.. 12v+ comes from 2 leads.. 1 is the brush on the bottom of the cage and feeds bulbs 1 and 3.. the other comes from the top of the bulb cage via wires coming down off the post on top. This feeds bulbs 2 and 4, which means you can power 2 bulbs or 4 bulbs. Ground is all going to the top of the bulb cage.

As for rubber bumpers for the bulb cage I am hoping I got this right..

Optimized-20210130_122222.jpg


And lastly I am having a #$%&! of a time getting this back together. I am using the thinner rubber bumpers on the deck to accommodate for the glass dome but I cannot get the 3 holes to line up with the bulb cage. I am gonna go take a walk and come back to it, I am not sure what I am doing wrong on this one, however it is probably something stupid.

Lastly.. what do you guys use on glass domes?
There is some weird residue that I can't seem to get off even with 0000 steel wool.
 

Maxim2Eng

Premium Member
Platinum Supporter
The 175 and 176 were designed to power two bulbs or all 4...the rationale was to save power on scene. Both terminals would have a sticker marking R for red and W for clear bulbs. Originally supplied with a two position pull out switch as part of the installation package, I use a double pole-double throw to run it. You will need power to both leads to illuminate all 4 bulbs, and power to one lead for just 2 bulb operation. I will collect some photos of the wiring on my 175 and post shortly.
 

Maxim2Eng

Premium Member
Platinum Supporter
Here’s the underside of my 175
7166F39C-929A-48E2-BEBD-F4AD4CA10A96.jpeg The W lead goes to the tilted bulbs in the cage, or in your 176, two bulbs opposite each other. The other two bulbs get their power from the post on top of the cage. The motor is powered on the R terminals so it will be on all times.
2FF92591-45ED-47D5-93D9-B60C2B9F92F4.jpeg The paired bulbs are grounded to the bottom of the cage is the corner of the cage and the other pair on the opposite corner. Hope this helps.

I assume you are referring to the skirt screw holes lining up with the mounting plate...all Beacon Ray mounting instructions indicate the back of the motor faces the front of the vehicle (note the ID plate screws on my skirt). With new gasket and bumpers, they would be very tight to get on. I use a pair of awls (or small punches) to get better alignment on the skirt holes To get the first screw started.

Regarding the residue, try a solvent like mineral spirits or lighter fluid with the steel wool. If that doesn’t work try a fine polishing compound.
 
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Stampeed Valkyrie

Stampeed Valkyrie

Senior Member
Silver Supporter
Interesting motor to the front.. I did not know that. Good to know.
 
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Stampeed Valkyrie

Stampeed Valkyrie

Senior Member
Silver Supporter
Ok, I FINALLY got it to go back together. I was able to remove most of the residue from the glass but not all of it.

I still need to put the base gasket on, but here it is for now.

Optimized-20210206_170704.jpg
 
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Stampeed Valkyrie

Stampeed Valkyrie

Senior Member
Silver Supporter
Made a quick video on the current status of this light..
with 2+ feet of snow outside had to stick to indoors..



You can clearly see the residue or whatever is on the outside of the dome.

I tried the usual tricks, but don't seem to be getting anywhere with it.

Any suggestions?
 

JPC

Registered Member
There is one exactly like this on Publicsurplus.com right now. It's not cleaned up like this one but so far it's only at $16.
 

bpollard

Member
Toothbrush with WD40 (don't laugh, it works miracles) Brasso metal polish
I second that idea. Spray some WD40 on it, let it sit for up to 30 minutes. You may not even need the toothbrush, it will probably wipe off with a microfiber towel! Others please feel to correct me on this- I don't think that WD40 could even possibly harm the dome.

Bob
 

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