Whelen Edge 9000 48" Wiring Questions and more....

[FIR3MDC]

I think that I am posting this in the correct forum, if not, please advise.

I recently bought an old Whelen Edge 9000 light bar. I have been having issues getting all of the lights to work. The only lights I have been able to get to work are the alley lights on both sides and the 4 corner strobes. Everything else I cannot figure out. I ordered a Powermax 110 volt to 12 Volt DC converter for the power and it works fine, it's the wiring I am having a hard time with. I have attached pictures so you can get a sense of what I am working with.

Open to any and all suggestions to get all the lights working.

Whelen EDGE 9000
Model: 9438
Model Numbers of the unit behind Opticom and rear covers: 2 X 6

 

[firebuff17]

Might be hard to figure out without the bar in front of us.
The factory never uses wire nuts, so it appears that someone has been in there previous to you.
My suggestion would be to trace everything out.
I am sure someone on here has a wiring diagram for the 9438 series (I don’t anymore) and then you can trace it out for what you have.

Keep this thread updated with progress! We all love flashy things

 

[FIR3MDC]

Might be hard to figure out without the bar in front of us.
The factory never uses wire nuts, so it appears that someone has been in there previous to you.
My suggestion would be to trace everything out.
I am sure someone on here has a wiring diagram for the 9438 series (I don’t anymore) and then you can trace it out for what you have.

Keep this thread updated with progress! We all love flashy things

The wire nuts were my doing and those connections are what is making the lights work that are working.

 

[firebuff17]

Ahhh Ha! Lol Very good then!
Then I will still defer to someone who has the wiring diagram for the 9438 series bar as I don’t have it anymore.

 

[Stampeed Valkyrie]

old thread but might be helpful.

Ancient Edge 9000?

Trying to get this Edge going, when I got it apart it was like nothing I had ever seen. Every piece was constructed of stainless sheet metal, like the exterior of the power supply pictured. It was actually quite impressive. Everything is dated "84" or "85" so it is obviously a pretty early...

elightbars.org

you might need to power this via a battery or other regulated power supply. Strobe bars can get picky where they draw power from.

 

[firebuff17]

in the going through the thread that @Stampeed Valkyrie posted, I read that the 9308 would be the same. So I dropped a google on that and came up with another thread. This is what I took from that thread. I would go through this and compare colors listed here with what you have before testing with 12V.

The brown wire is supposed to show 12v, as its returning 12v from the relay matrix board for you to power your switches--was designed that way to plug into the PCCS9N switchbox.


Concerning the power supplies-one powers the inboard strobes, and the other powers the outboard strobes. On your control harness, the green wire powers the front strobes, the gray wire powers the rear strobes, and the blue powers both front and rear strobes. White is left alley, yellow is right alley, white/black is takedown. Applying momentary 12v to the purple wire puts it in low power mode, and you have to turn the bar off then back on to return to high power. I only recall the comet flash as being the only pattern available in those bars.

 

[FIR3MDC]

Follow-up

I was able to get the front strobes to work as well as the driver and passenger alley lights. Still unable to get the rear inner strobes, take-downs and rear caution lights to work. Looking at the wiring diagram that my BIL sent me, attached below, I am not sure what the issue is when I connect the wires to the positive terminal. If I am reading it correctly, the gray/white wire should do it, but nothing when I do connect it. Same with the take-downs and rear caution lights.

Thoughts?

 

[Nolines]

Yes where did you attach the wiring diagram??

 

[FIR3MDC]

Yes where did you attach the wiring diagram??

Forgot to attach it.

 

[Nolines]

I don't think you ground the violet wire, in most of them wasn't that 12 volts momentary to put it in low power mode or latched 12 v constant till the light bar was turned off and turned back on. Did you try switching the leads from one power supply to the other to see if the power supply has died? If the lights that work on one supply don't work on the other then fuse or dead supply.

 

[Pete L.]

Like what was said above, check your fuses. Each power supply has its own 15a fuse on
the red wire coming right out of the power supply.

 

[FIR3MDC]

Does the ground wire coming out of the light bar need to be connected to anything?

 

[Stampeed Valkyrie]

Does the ground wire coming out of the light bar need to be connected to anything

??

It should connect to the ground on your power supply. and the wire should ground to the frame on the inside.

 

[FIR3MDC]

Update:
I cleaned up all the lenses so they are looking like new. I also flipped the front strobes with the rear strobes to see if it was either a bulb issue or a wiring issue. Looks like it is a wiring issue as the rear strobes now work but the front strobes do not. The take downs in the front and the yellow caution lights in the rear still do not work. Taking out the Opticom and going to replace it with another solid black lens, like the rear has. Unless you all have another suggestion?

 

[FIR3MDC]

Replacement front strobe came in the mail today so I replaced that and the front strobe wiring is not the issue, it was a bulb issue, so the front and rear inboard strobes now work. Last is the front take downs and rear caution flashers to get to work. Ordered a bulb to see if it is a bulb issue. Fuses are all good. Progress.

 

[Stampeed Valkyrie]

If the flashers/takedowns are halogen. You can use a meter to test continuity on the contact point. If blown there will be no continuity.

 

[FIR3MDC]

If the flashers/takedowns are halogen. You can use a meter to test continuity on the contact point. If blown there will be no continuity.

They are the bipin Halogen bulbs. Will test the contact points. Thanks for the suggestion.