Whelen Liberty - Flash corners only when wired to pursuit switch

[NiftyX]

This is a setup I made to just flash the corners of a Whelen Liberty lightbar. The reason I set this up is because my lightbar is wired to a three-position pursuit switch and I didn't want to set each set of corners (front/rear) on a separate switch that activated with the pursuit switch (programmed with a CemCom). Plus, I only had one extra outlet on my CenCom.


This is a simple DIY setup using rectifier diodes available at Radio Shack. The setup allows the corner modules to activate like normal using a pursuit switch (rear of bar and whole bar). My particular setup uses position #1 to activate just the rear of the bar and position #2 activates the whole bar. I now have a button designated to activate just the corner modules.


Four 3-Amp Rectifier Diodes:





Wiring Diagram (for a Liberty):





The labels FRONT CORNERS (GREEN WIRE) and REAR CORNERS (BLUE WIRE) are the wires coming from the switch to normally activate the light. In my case, position #1 on my pursuit switch would normally activate the rear of my bar (which includes the blue wire) along with my rear strobes and deck lights.


In Real Life:





There is probably a more efficient way to set this up, like stacking the connectors and taping them together so it's not as flimsy.


Basically the rectifier diodes allow current to pass in only one direction. When the switch for the corners is activated, the diodes prevent a back feed of power, which in my case would activate other lights tired to the circuit that are activated with the pursuit switch. This also prevents power from crossing over during normal operation using the pursuit switch. I spliced this creation into the lightbar corner control wires and also to a switch on my switch panel.


This setup can easily be modified to fit numerous other applications and needs.

 

[John Hearne]

Diodes are your friends when controlling current. I like to make my connections on double bus bars and will just use the diode as a jumper across whatever positions I need.

 

[John Hearne]

Being able to use diodes to control the flow of electricity can really help with custom installs. I've used them for years, at least until we got Cencoms. My favorite install method was to make all of my connections on double bus bars. I just used the diode as jumper across the various positions on the bus bar that I needed. The only potential issue is the amp rating of the diode, the biggest I found locally was 5 or 6 amps.

 

[aacosta367]

was have same problem with my light bar!!!! love trick thanks

 

[tacomabanga19861986]

do they get hot after some time of use? i got a few of these but didn't know what they where for till now


great idea, is there an in and out on these or does it matter? might try this on some things

 

[foxtrot5]

Awesome tip and a VERY well presented How-To. The included diagrams, photos, and videos make it simple to follow. Thanks for a good tip and providing an example of a good way to write tips!

 

[ford-dealer]

If you are using a Cencom... there is an easier way to accomplish this. One of the oputputs (I think it is # SW4) has an option to "Deactivate" other outputs when SW4 is activated.


I did this for a local PD


Slide SW1 Rear Corners only + Activate an additional output (Not Buttoned) for Rear Inners


Slide SW2 Front Corners and Front Inners


Slide SW3 Added Flashing Takedowns/Alleys


When you hit SW4, it is programmed to leave ALL the above "Active" except the additional output for the rear inners... so when you hit the SW4 "Pursuit Switch", even with the slide switch all the way activated, it cancels the rear inners thus leaving only the rear corners to flash.

 

[NiftyX]

do they get hot after some time of use? i got a few of these but didn't know what they where for till now

great idea, is there an in and out on these or does it matter? might try this on some things

The side with the solid silver line around it is the "out" end, so to speak. You can picture it as like a barrier to keep current from back-flowing. The only thing to check is the voltage and amp rating on them before you apply them to make sure they won't get overloaded. You should be able to Google the number on them.

 

[NiftyX]

If you are using a Cencom... there is an easier way to accomplish this. One of the oputputs (I think it is # SW4) has an option to "Deactivate" other outputs when SW4 is activated.

I did this for a local PD


Slide SW1 Rear Corners only + Activate an additional output (Not Buttoned) for Rear Inners


Slide SW2 Front Corners and Front Inners


Slide SW3 Added Flashing Takedowns/Alleys


When you hit SW4, it is programmed to leave ALL the above "Active" except the additional output for the rear inners... so when you hit the SW4 "Pursuit Switch", even with the slide switch all the way activated, it cancels the rear inners thus leaving only the rear corners to flash.

What about the front inners? I have it set to flash the front and rear corners only. The other advantage my setup has is my dash cam is wired to my slide switch position #2. This way I can turn on 360-degree lighting without activating my camera. I primarily use this when working events and I don't need all of my lights on.

 

[ford-dealer]

What about the front inners? I have it set to flash the front and rear corners only. The other advantage my setup has is my dash cam is wired to my slide switch position #2. This way I can turn on 360-degree lighting without activating my camera. I primarily use this when working events and I don't need all of my lights on.

Same thing applies.... just put the front inners on a separate output. That way you can deactivate Both Outputs thus leaving only the 4 corners flashing

 

[NiftyX]

Same thing applies.... just put the front inners on a separate output. That way you can deactivate Both Outputs thus leaving only the 4 corners flashing

That just seems like I'd be tying up a lot of outputs for one function. I only had one free output to use. I guess if I were wiring it from being newly installed I might be able to make it work using just outputs, but it was easier to splice two wires and connect an output than disconnect and separate multiple bundles. Good idea though.