Whelen PCC8R Controller Installation Help

[HalliganHook]

Any thoughts, opinions, installation tips for the Whelen PCC8R Controller?

 

[DefianceEngineCompany]

i love my 2 pcc8r's you can mount them anywhere

 

[IslandFleet]

it's a great piece.


performs well


able to perform multiple applications with it's NC/NO abilities

 

[HalliganHook]

it's a great piece.
performs well


able to perform multiple applications with it's NC/NO abilities

NC/NO abilities? Meaning?

 

[rwo978]

NC/NO abilities? Meaning?

Normal closed/normal open.... circuits.

 

[HalliganHook]

I am going to be installing a Freedom with a PCC8R controlling everything. I just received the PCC8R, read through the instructions, looked at all the components, and I am a little confused with how the 8 individual relays get wired. The relay module has 8 individual relays and the main power input, where both (+) leads need to get fused @ 40amps each.


Here's how the owner wants the buttons on the PCC8R wired:


Switch 1 - Entire Lightbar (All LED's, Takedowns and Alley Lights)


Switch 2 - Rear Lightbar Only


Switch 3 - Front Takedowns Only


Switch 4 - Rear Worklights Only


Switch 5 - Left Alley Lights Only


Switch 6 - Right Alley Lights Only


Switch 7 - Lower Level LED's Only (Linz6, ION's, Vertex)


Switch 8 - PAH112 Airhorn (I moved dip switch in Bank #2 to DOWN position for momentary)


How am I wiring the individual relays to accomplish this? I am assuming I will be using the Standard Outlet configuration. Any help is appreciated.


~Kirk

 

[philter74]

I am going to be installing a Freedom with a PCC8R controlling everything. I just received the PCC8R, read through the instructions, looked at all the components, and I am a little confused with how the 8 individual relays get wired. The relay module has 8 individual relays and the main power input, where both (+) leads need to get fused @ 40amps each.

Here's how the owner wants the buttons on the PCC8R wired:


Switch 1 - Entire Lightbar (All LED's, Takedowns and Alley Lights)


Switch 2 - Rear Lightbar Only


Switch 3 - Front Takedowns Only


Switch 4 - Rear Worklights Only


Switch 5 - Left Alley Lights Only


Switch 6 - Right Alley Lights Only


Switch 7 - Lower Level LED's Only (Linz6, ION's, Vertex)


Switch 8 - PAH112 Airhorn (I moved dip switch in Bank #2 to DOWN position for momentary)


How am I wiring the individual relays to accomplish this? I am assuming I will be using the Standard Outlet configuration. Any help is appreciated.


~Kirk

If all outputs are 12V + output, you use the middle connection (I don't know what wire color) on the three pin connectors.


Is the Freedom WeCan or low current switched? If it is low current, you are going to need to use diodes to isolate the functions described above.

 

[HalliganHook]

If all outputs are 12V + output, you use the middle connection (I don't know what wire color) on the three pin connectors.

Is the Freedom WeCan or low current switched? If it is low current, you are going to need to use diodes to isolate the functions described above.

The Freedom is not a WeCan bar. It is a regular low current Freedom. I was told to purchase the PCC8R because of the built-in relays and that there would not need to be any additional relays, etc. I have to configure the diodes in Bank #1 of the PCC8R? That's what I am confused on.


~Kirk

 

[IslandFleet]

PCC8R is slightly overkill for the functions you will be using it for...


It's designed to switch high current applications...like your lower level LINZ6s, etc...


but that's OK


you won't have to touch the dip switches in bank 1...that's to disable the diagnostics when using the PCC8's NC/NO functions...


looks like you're only going to be using the middle output wire - I believe it's the yellow


if your freedom isn't a wecan...it's a LC bar...so you will have to diode isolate the rear LED activation wires...


since you want the rear LEDs to come on by themselves AND with the button #1

 

[HalliganHook]

PCC8R is slightly overkill for the functions you will be using it for...
It's designed to switch high current applications...like your lower level LINZ6s, etc...


but that's OK


you won't have to touch the dip switches in bank 1...that's to disable the diagnostics when using the PCC8's NC/NO functions...


looks like you're only going to be using the middle output wire - I believe it's the yellow


if your freedom isn't a wecan...it's a LC bar...so you will have to diode isolate the rear LED activation wires...


since you want the rear LEDs to come on by themselves AND with the button #1

OK, so basically, I am going to wire each of the lightbar's wires to the MIDDLE wire for each of the 8 relays? So for example, to wire up only the rear worklights to button #4 on the controller, I would connect the worklight wire from the lightbar's harness to the middle wire on Relay #4?


How do I perform diode isolation, because I am going to have to do it a few times; the owner wants flashing takedowns/alleys on Relay #1, and also wants to have steady burning takedowns and alleys when the rest of the lightbar is off. Thank you very much for the assistance so far.


~Kirk

 

[IslandFleet]

flashing takedown/alley lights have a seperate activation wire...


flashing takedowns & alleys are the WHT/BLU


steady burn takedowns is WHT/BLK


alley lights are YEL & WHT for steady burn


steady burn worklights should be WHT/ORG if they used the AUX (lightbar will then have no cruise function)


you need to diode isolate the rear lightbar activation wires (should be the BLU, BLU/WHT, BLU/BLK, etc away from the rest of the activation wires. this will ensure that when the customer wants just the rear activated, the rest of the activation wires do not see current. when the customer wants "all" on, all the activation wires see current.

 

[HalliganHook]

flashing takedown/alley lights have a seperate activation wire...
flashing takedowns & alleys are the WHT/BLU


steady burn takedowns is WHT/BLK


alley lights are YEL & WHT for steady burn


steady burn worklights should be WHT/ORG if they used the AUX (lightbar will then have no cruise function)


you need to diode isolate the rear lightbar activation wires (should be the BLU, BLU/WHT, BLU/BLK, etc away from the rest of the activation wires. this will ensure that when the customer wants just the rear activated, the rest of the activation wires do not see current. when the customer wants "all" on, all the activation wires see current.

IslandFleet and philter74, great replies. Real useful information. Thank you.


Few questions:


1) What size diode should I be using? Is 3amp sufficient?


2) Which direction should the diode be facing? Towards all of the wires going into Relay #1, or away from all the wires going into Relay #1 (towards Relay #2)?


~Kirk

 

[IslandFleet]

3A should be OK as the LC board draws in the mA's.


anode side of the diode on the output or relay #1 to feed the rear activation wires.


I would also throw a diode in between the output of relay #2 and the rear activation wires to prevent current from feeding back into relay #2 when #1 is on and #2 is off.


the above will let the customer turn "all" on with relay #1...and only the rear with relay #2


"banded" side of the diode is the cathode


"unbanded" side of the diode is the anode


(+) applications...anode in, cathode out. will not allow current to pass in the oposite direction


(-) applications...cathode in, anode out. will not allow current to pass in the opposite direction


you are dealing with a (+) application for your install

 

[HalliganHook]

Installed the Freedom and PCC8R today. Very cool little controller. I ended up wiring the front and rear LED's on separate relays, at the owners request, so I did not have to use any diodes.


Quick question on the Backlight feature. If the owner wants the backlight on all the time, can I just hook this wire up to anything that turns on with the IGN in the fuse box?


Thanks again for the the suggestions.

 

[rwo978]

Quick question on the Backlight feature. If the owner wants the backlight on all the time, can I just hook this wire up to anything that turns on with the IGN in the fuse box?

yes. amp draw is very minimal for this.

 

[HalliganHook]

yes. amp draw is very minimal for this.

I wired it to a IGN fuse in the panel but the backlight still did not come on with the vehicle was turned on?

 

[IslandFleet]

the backlight on this unit is VERY dim.


illuminates green


it's hard to tell during the day if it's working