hey guys, i just got a whelen pccs9n, only problem is, its the low current version. im trying to power my whole car with that, not a lightbar. but right now, i have 6 tir3's and a dual avenger hooked up to it without relays and it seems to be working just fine. how much does each switch really put out? im only running led's off it, so do i need relays? or should i just run it the way it is now?
whelen pccs9n relay
- Thread starter eng18ine
- Start date
twodogs603
Member
Well Whelen install manual says the control wires are rated for no greater then 250 mA. So if your running several TIR3s your over that. But I have seen an Avenger and ION's ran off those wires so its hard to say. But you cant go wrong by using the control wires to trigger a relay to power your lights. Thats the best way.
http://www.whelen.com/_AUTOMOTIVE/install/137/13716.pdf
http://www.whelen.com/_AUTOMOTIVE/install/137/13716.pdf
im going off a different guide, i have i guess an older model? but im going to run relays anyway. im fairly new to this and havnt really dealt with them yet. it will be a learning expierence
twodogs603
Member
The only different between the PCCS9N and PSSS9NP is the P version has dip switches that let you program the outputs the way you want ......
hey guys, im having an issue with a whelen switch box, a pccs9. on slide switch 1 i want to have a dash light, slide switch 2 i want to have the dash light and grill lights, and position 3, dash light, grills, and rear warning. but when i wire it for that, everything comes on for every switch. how would i wire this to do what i want? could i have 3 different relays for each switch where the first is connected to the dash lights, the second relay is connected to the dash and grills and the third is connected to everything?
thanks for your help.
thanks for your help.
Hello ,If this is the one with built in relays you have dip switches on the inside that program the sequence of the slide switch. I may have a install sheet . Let me know if you need more info , Ray
Understand that the slide switch is additive. In position 1, output 1 is powered. In position 2, outputs 1 and 2 are both powered. In position 3, outputs 1, 2, and 3 are all powered.
It sounds like you wired everything together. Make sure that only the dash light is connected to output 1, only the grille lights are connected to output 2, and only the rear warning is connected to output 3.
It sounds like you wired everything together. Make sure that only the dash light is connected to output 1, only the grille lights are connected to output 2, and only the rear warning is connected to output 3.
twodogs603
Member
If its a low current model you have a version of the PCCS9N. Do you know if its just the older PCCS9N or PCCS9NP which has the programmable DIP switches?
shues said:
see thats what i thought. i thought it was progressive, for a lack of better words. but it seems to not be so. the first position is the first switch, the second position is the second switch and same with the third. each switch is just one switch it doesnt control anything else.
its a pccs9n, its an older model.
twodogs603
Member
It sounds like you have an older unit then. Its not programmable. They were designed that way a long time ago to mate up with the Edge bars, where the light bar harness green wire activated the front strobes, gray wire activated the rear strobes, and the blue wire activated all the strobes. Course you didnt have to hook it up that way. You could do it however you wanted.
i think i figured it out, i put the dash light wire to the second switch , the third wire is going to the grills, but also to a relay that is connected to the dash light. its probably not the best way to do it but it works.
Hey guys.
Im trying to run 2 switches but cant really figure out how. The first switch is going to he a dash light and the second is going to be a dash light and grill lights. How do I hook it up so that the power doesn't go to both lights when the first switch is turned on?
Im trying to run 2 switches but cant really figure out how. The first switch is going to he a dash light and the second is going to be a dash light and grill lights. How do I hook it up so that the power doesn't go to both lights when the first switch is turned on?
the way i want to do it is, is to have 2 switches. it would probably help do word it this way. its going on a slide switch. the first position on the slide switch i want to have the dash light. the second position on the slide switch i want to have the dash light and the grill lights.
factorone33
Member
eng18ine said:
Most slide switches are progressive as you describe. Just find a switchbox with a slide-switch built in, and your problem should be solved.
thats the thing. i have a whelen pccs9n which is the low current version and the slide switch is not progressive. i have the box, lights, relays, fuses and wire. everything is there, i just dont know how to do it
Jamey@NNE said:
i want to thank you for making my life about 120x easier. i wanted to ask "is there some kind of one way "valve" in electricity?" but i felt stupid asking a question like that but i found the answer to be a diode. thank you. could you recommend one? i cant really find any meant for automotive purposes unless using a standard, (barrel with two thin cable type wires on either side) is acceptable?
this is exactly what i was looking for. i knew my problem was that the power was going i guess you could say backwards through the wires, going to the light that i didnt want it to. i just didnt know how to stop that. but this will do the trick
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eng18ine said:
If you're looking for a diode, and this will only be used to control relays (not lights), then you can use the 1N4004 diode available at your local Radio Shack. Anything from 1N4004-1N4007 will suit your needs. These can handle up to 1 amp. As I said, ONLY if it will be to control relays. If it will be to control lights, then we need to use a higher power diode. On a side note, slide switches are not meant to handle lots of amps, so your setup should be to control relays. Hope that helps.
Tony