Federal Signal White bulbs
- Thread starter alfiydi
- Start date
What is the lamp number on your GE sealed beam bulbs? At what voltage are you operating the Dietz beacon?
The 4509 sealed beam is a 100-watt bulb, commonly listed as an aircraft landing light. This bulb is generally not used in beacon applications because of its very high intensity. The 4416 sealed beam, a 30-watt bulb, is used in many beacons. Sometimes the 4464 sealed beam, a 60-watt bulb, is used in some beacons.
Is your beacon capable of handling the current requirement of more than 8 amps presented by each of the 4509 sealed beam bulbs?
Is your beacon capable of handling the current requirement of more than 8 amps presented by each of the 4509 sealed beam bulbs?
Hi,
Sounds like there is not enough current passing thru the brushes and the filaments aren't running hot enough and are gassing and coating the inside of the glass. Makes me think these are Halogen bulbs and so the heat is too low for recycling of the filament material....
As others have noted, beacons don't use bulbs of this high a wattage so I doubt there are many, if any, that can handle the higher current level a 100 watt bulb requires.
Stan
Sounds like there is not enough current passing thru the brushes and the filaments aren't running hot enough and are gassing and coating the inside of the glass. Makes me think these are Halogen bulbs and so the heat is too low for recycling of the filament material....
As others have noted, beacons don't use bulbs of this high a wattage so I doubt there are many, if any, that can handle the higher current level a 100 watt bulb requires.
Stan
Wonderful enriching additions
In fact, the 4509 bulbs work perfectly and give the beacon a wonderful, bright light that extends over a long distance. They are ideal for a giant truck with a heavy load.
Approximately every 20 bulbs, one of them looks like this What I'm looking for is a reason to avoid it
In fact, the 4509 bulbs work perfectly and give the beacon a wonderful, bright light that extends over a long distance. They are ideal for a giant truck with a heavy load.
Approximately every 20 bulbs, one of them looks like this What I'm looking for is a reason to avoid it
Hi,
I doubt you can fix this besides running lower wattage bulbs which aren't trying to draw too much current thru the brushes. That's turning them into resistors and dropping voltage to the bulbs and so wrecking them. I also expect that, in time, you will burn out the brushes to boot.
In other words, you have exceeded the design limits of the beacon.
Stan
I doubt you can fix this besides running lower wattage bulbs which aren't trying to draw too much current thru the brushes. That's turning them into resistors and dropping voltage to the bulbs and so wrecking them. I also expect that, in time, you will burn out the brushes to boot.
In other words, you have exceeded the design limits of the beacon.
Stan
I frequently used 4509 bulbs in my pov equipment (red glass domed 174 front facing only) and my VFD had a Blazer with a Twin BeaconRay and all 4 bulbs were 4509s with no ill effects whatsoever. The KEY is using the proper gauge wiring. I used 10 gauge and the Twin BeaconRay had 8 gauge wiring for power and ground (fiberglass roofs on Blazers).
Oh yea, I had a Unity RV46 with four aircraft landing lights in it…very effective!
For display, I use 30 watt bulbs only.
Oh yea, I had a Unity RV46 with four aircraft landing lights in it…very effective!
For display, I use 30 watt bulbs only.
Hi,
That, too, is something to think about. If the wiring is too thin, then that is also a resistor. Add that to the brushes and it becomes a double whammy.
What needs to be done now is make some measurements with a decent digital voltmeter. First at the terminals where the power enters the beacon, and then at the bulbs themselves. See what you have at each spot when the beacon is turned on.
It'll take some extra wire between the bulb and the meter to allow for the rotation twisting the wires in operation. But you might get by with a much heavier gauge wire to the beacon and have enough voltage left at the bulbs to not cause the issue.
Stan
That, too, is something to think about. If the wiring is too thin, then that is also a resistor. Add that to the brushes and it becomes a double whammy.
What needs to be done now is make some measurements with a decent digital voltmeter. First at the terminals where the power enters the beacon, and then at the bulbs themselves. See what you have at each spot when the beacon is turned on.
It'll take some extra wire between the bulb and the meter to allow for the rotation twisting the wires in operation. But you might get by with a much heavier gauge wire to the beacon and have enough voltage left at the bulbs to not cause the issue.
Stan
I suggest you buy this lamp. Try one piece. It comes with a metal mount against vibration and rough roads and is coated with quartz so even if the outer casing breaks the lamp will work.
Lamp : Norman Q4509
100 watt 13 volt
Attachments
Thanks for the reply. Found them at a reasonable price on Amazon .might just have to order a couple.
I had a 1983 Pontiac 6000 SE I had as a VFD in KY (we could use red lights and sirens on our povs), so when I moved to VA, I replaced the red grill lights with 4509s as driving lights…they were great!
Interesting story related to the driving lights…VA had crooked vehicle “inspection” system that was greatly abused at consumer expense. I was “failed” for the “illegal” driving lights that came on with the high beams…but they WOULD’NT tell me the specific reason—I had to let them, “correct the deficiency” (at a fee, of corse) or remove the lights to pass. I had a friend—a Sgt. on Henrico PD—who told me the law required them to be more specific so I pushed and they relented it was related to the driving lights. I installed a hidden switch to disable the high beam solenoid and got retested. They couldn’t get the driving lights to come on with the high beams so they had to pass me (although it took them nearly 2 hours to try to figure out how I “cheated” them—they didn’t know I had been an outfitter for 15+ years).
The next year, I was failed for a “leaking brake cylinder which they would repair and pass for a mere $150. I went home, pulled out my drill and honer and repaired the cylinder myself…cost <$10. I went back for the re-inspection and it took 30 minutes after pulling the wheel and drum to ask me “who did this repair?” When I told them I did, they demanded to know how I did it and was the cylinder re-honed. I showed them, the tools I used and they balked…until I told them I would call my friend the Sgt. on Henrico PD to come refresh their memory on the law.
They next year, vehicle inspection law in VA was repealed.
Sorry for the “GET OFF MY LAWN!” response.
Interesting story related to the driving lights…VA had crooked vehicle “inspection” system that was greatly abused at consumer expense. I was “failed” for the “illegal” driving lights that came on with the high beams…but they WOULD’NT tell me the specific reason—I had to let them, “correct the deficiency” (at a fee, of corse) or remove the lights to pass. I had a friend—a Sgt. on Henrico PD—who told me the law required them to be more specific so I pushed and they relented it was related to the driving lights. I installed a hidden switch to disable the high beam solenoid and got retested. They couldn’t get the driving lights to come on with the high beams so they had to pass me (although it took them nearly 2 hours to try to figure out how I “cheated” them—they didn’t know I had been an outfitter for 15+ years).
The next year, I was failed for a “leaking brake cylinder which they would repair and pass for a mere $150. I went home, pulled out my drill and honer and repaired the cylinder myself…cost <$10. I went back for the re-inspection and it took 30 minutes after pulling the wheel and drum to ask me “who did this repair?” When I told them I did, they demanded to know how I did it and was the cylinder re-honed. I showed them, the tools I used and they balked…until I told them I would call my friend the Sgt. on Henrico PD to come refresh their memory on the law.
They next year, vehicle inspection law in VA was repealed.
Sorry for the “GET OFF MY LAWN!” response.
Virginia still has annual vehicle inspections, but I remember when they were every 6 months. I've never had a problem with inspections and twice "fail" issues were found. I was given 10 days to have the issue corrected and be reinspected at no additional inspection charge.
the bulb almost looks like it lost the seal and is no longer a sealed beam. Filament is burning and will fail shortly.