RecElect
Member
I wanted to start an official thread about this product as to not hijack other threads, so here we go!
First some links:
Website: www.wiredhdh.com – requires flash
To buy: www.shopwiredhdh.com – coupon code “elightbars”
Youtube: www.youtube.com/wiredhdh
Facebook: http://www.facebook.com/#!/pages/Wired-HDH/166861113343250 - please like our page, and receive updates and see when we do big time super secret discounts!
The FSP (flat switch panel) Series is one of a kind and a game changer. It is developed and manufactured in the USA and is built to withstand the toughest conditions in a vehicle.
The Keypad is made from a material that is made to withstand water and chemicals, and is UV resistant. It measures 1.75" by 5.5"; smaller then a dollar bill. The UV resistance has been tested in Florida, Arizona and UV light box condition for a period or forced period of 2 years. It was given excellent ratings in both yellowness index and fold-ability. In other words, for 2 years it sat in the Arizona sun, had very minimal yellowing, and could still be folded back on itself without any adverse effects.
The buttons are made from a stainless steel dome embedded in the keypad. It makes for 75% less moving parts when compared to a toggle switch, but still gives you a click and tactile feedback. They are rated for 1 million button presses per switch. To put that in perspective, you would have to hit each switch 135 times a day for 20 years before it would reach its rated life.
The controller is the brains of the unit. It contains a processor that takes the input signal from you (via the keypad) and tells the outputs whether to be on or off. (It is much more complicated than this, but this is laymen terms!)
This type of setup lets us allow you to basically “rewire” the switch panel using a programming mode, instead of actually re-wiring it. In 30 seconds, you can change the way all the switch’s work (momentary or sustained) or when the switch’s work (all the time or only when the key is on). It literally is this fast. The controllers circuitry is “potted”, which means all the electronics inside are encapsulated in epoxy, this helps it to withstand harsh water conditions and heat as shown in the video below.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VESuHRJKl10
We also include more legends than anyone! 600 to be exact. If you can’t find what you are looking for in 600 legends, tell us! We even have an eject button, an acme bomb, a DO NOT TOUCH and an EASY legend!
We also include an installation kit that has all the correct sized wire, breakers, fuses, and fuse taps that you need to do a professional installation on our product.
Installation is easy. You will bring a power wire in from the battery, get an ignition signal from the fuse box, and ground the unt. The keypad plugs into the controller using a quick connect harness. it takes about 2.5 seconds to hook it in. Then just bring your power line from your accessory or relay and bring it into the outputs. Each output corresponds to it's respective switch.
Output rating: We get a lot of questions about why the rating is only 2.5 amps per output. Let me try and explain our reasoning.
We are of the mindset that all larger power items should be mounted outside the cab, but our switch controller would be mounted inside. If we made the output rating 15 amps per, we would be asking you to bring in 4 gauge wire through your firewall, which we did not want to do. By using relays, you will be able to keep all the big power outside, and still have enough power to run a lot of stuff inside. Common inside items would be able to connect direct, like scanners, amp triggers, dome lights, map lights, anything LED, etc… Yes there will be times you need an interior relay, but it won’t be as common as you think.
Most lighting kits come with relays anyway, you just need to find how it is triggered and hook that wire to an output.
If you do hook something that it can’t handle, don’t worry, it will protect its self from damage and shut down the output.
Also the 2.5 amp rating is continuous, the output can handle 4 amps, but we don’t recommend running at the max all the time which is why we rate it at 2.5 amps.
If you have any questions about this system, please ask on this forum and I will answer. :crazy:
First some links:
Website: www.wiredhdh.com – requires flash
To buy: www.shopwiredhdh.com – coupon code “elightbars”
Youtube: www.youtube.com/wiredhdh
Facebook: http://www.facebook.com/#!/pages/Wired-HDH/166861113343250 - please like our page, and receive updates and see when we do big time super secret discounts!
The FSP (flat switch panel) Series is one of a kind and a game changer. It is developed and manufactured in the USA and is built to withstand the toughest conditions in a vehicle.
The Keypad is made from a material that is made to withstand water and chemicals, and is UV resistant. It measures 1.75" by 5.5"; smaller then a dollar bill. The UV resistance has been tested in Florida, Arizona and UV light box condition for a period or forced period of 2 years. It was given excellent ratings in both yellowness index and fold-ability. In other words, for 2 years it sat in the Arizona sun, had very minimal yellowing, and could still be folded back on itself without any adverse effects.
The buttons are made from a stainless steel dome embedded in the keypad. It makes for 75% less moving parts when compared to a toggle switch, but still gives you a click and tactile feedback. They are rated for 1 million button presses per switch. To put that in perspective, you would have to hit each switch 135 times a day for 20 years before it would reach its rated life.
The controller is the brains of the unit. It contains a processor that takes the input signal from you (via the keypad) and tells the outputs whether to be on or off. (It is much more complicated than this, but this is laymen terms!)
This type of setup lets us allow you to basically “rewire” the switch panel using a programming mode, instead of actually re-wiring it. In 30 seconds, you can change the way all the switch’s work (momentary or sustained) or when the switch’s work (all the time or only when the key is on). It literally is this fast. The controllers circuitry is “potted”, which means all the electronics inside are encapsulated in epoxy, this helps it to withstand harsh water conditions and heat as shown in the video below.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VESuHRJKl10
We also include more legends than anyone! 600 to be exact. If you can’t find what you are looking for in 600 legends, tell us! We even have an eject button, an acme bomb, a DO NOT TOUCH and an EASY legend!
We also include an installation kit that has all the correct sized wire, breakers, fuses, and fuse taps that you need to do a professional installation on our product.
Installation is easy. You will bring a power wire in from the battery, get an ignition signal from the fuse box, and ground the unt. The keypad plugs into the controller using a quick connect harness. it takes about 2.5 seconds to hook it in. Then just bring your power line from your accessory or relay and bring it into the outputs. Each output corresponds to it's respective switch.
Output rating: We get a lot of questions about why the rating is only 2.5 amps per output. Let me try and explain our reasoning.
We are of the mindset that all larger power items should be mounted outside the cab, but our switch controller would be mounted inside. If we made the output rating 15 amps per, we would be asking you to bring in 4 gauge wire through your firewall, which we did not want to do. By using relays, you will be able to keep all the big power outside, and still have enough power to run a lot of stuff inside. Common inside items would be able to connect direct, like scanners, amp triggers, dome lights, map lights, anything LED, etc… Yes there will be times you need an interior relay, but it won’t be as common as you think.
Most lighting kits come with relays anyway, you just need to find how it is triggered and hook that wire to an output.
If you do hook something that it can’t handle, don’t worry, it will protect its self from damage and shut down the output.
Also the 2.5 amp rating is continuous, the output can handle 4 amps, but we don’t recommend running at the max all the time which is why we rate it at 2.5 amps.
If you have any questions about this system, please ask on this forum and I will answer. :crazy: