Hi all, I have a Code 3 Z3 amp with the controller connected. I also have 4 r/b strobes connected. At first everything worked, but now I’m encountering an issue where sometimes the strobes won’t light up at all, and sometimes they do (or randomly cut off). What could this problem be? I checked all the connections and everything seems fine, the programming is correct and everything is throughly grounded.
Wiring confusion | Code 3 Z3 amp & keypad
- Thread starter crownvicNL
- Start date
The amplifier is installed under the passenger-side seat. The vehicle is a 2005 Ford CVPI. The amp gets power directly from the battery and is grounded to the battery. The white ignition wire coming from the amplifier is also connected to the power wires.
I have 2 rear-facing strobes next to the 3rd brake light. They are connected to the white "LEVEL 2" wire coming from the amp wiring harness. The front-facing strobes (2 strobes, red and blue) are both connected to the white "LEVEL 1" wire from the amp. All strobes and the speaker are grounded to the 2 black ground wires coming from the amplifier. No lights or any other equipment are wired to the white "LEVEL 3" wire.
I have noticed that the strobes do work after the car has idled or has been driven for approximately 15-25 minutes. They do not work directly after I start the car, although the head control panel does work with no issues at all. The "FLASH" button does nothing but I think that is due to how it's been programmed by the previous PD.
All siren tones and the speaker (Code 3 100W) work with no issues.
Upvote
0
Yes I'm sure, I even triple-checked all the connections and everything seems to be connected correctly.
Upvote
0
I’m not using a second/external strobe power supply, I’m only using the white Level 1, 2 and 3 cables that run straight out the Code 3 Z3 amplifier.
Upvote
0
I have never owned a Code 3 Z3, but from the installation manual it does not appear to incorporate a strobe power supply. Strobes will not function without a strobe power supply to drive them.
If you are not using a separate strobe power suppy, and since the Code 3 Z3 does not incorporate a strobe power supply, then whatever you have that you think are strobes are not strobes.
If you are not using a separate strobe power suppy, and since the Code 3 Z3 does not incorporate a strobe power supply, then whatever you have that you think are strobes are not strobes.
Upvote
0
A picture of the “strobes” would help us figure out the potential issue.
We have an older fire engine loaded with strobes, but if she sits at idle too long they will start to misfire or not flash at all due to power consumption vs available energy to draw from.
We have an older fire engine loaded with strobes, but if she sits at idle too long they will start to misfire or not flash at all due to power consumption vs available energy to draw from.
Upvote
0
Here are some pictures of the amplifier in the trunk and the lighting setup from the outside. I know the cable management is a proper mess but it’s meant to be temporary. I have power coming from an ignition cable under the steering wheel so everything only powers up when I turn the ignition.
I’m a beginner with installing things like this. Could the power source be the problem? Do I have to draw power directly from the battery and wouldn’t that constantly keep the control head on and drain the battery?
Upvote
0
So the lights in the back window, are those some of the strobes you are referring to from your original post?
You definitely need that amp connected to battery power and the ignition power seperate
You definitely need that amp connected to battery power and the ignition power seperate
Upvote
0
I’m fairly certain the rear deck and grille lights are led, was slowly working my way to that. I think there’s not enough available power due to the current install for the controller. Causing the leds to shunt off likely the culprit here.
Upvote
0
Apologies, mixed up the words strobes/LEDs. Yes they’re all LEDs. Could you elaborate on the ignition power/battery power part?
Currently the amp is only receiving power from the ignition wire (amp and control head only boot up when ignition is switched on) because I wanted the whole setup to power on exclusively when I started the car as I didn’t want to drain the battery (by constantly running everything).
This is my first lighting/siren project, so I admit everything’s a real mess.
Upvote
0
Yes, that’s correct. I understand now that’s not the way it’s supposed to be hooked up, but I did not realize it at the time of installing everything.
Upvote
0
Hi all,
This is my first install of emergency equipment and I’m very confused about the wiring diagram of my Code 3 Z3.
I have the amplifier mounted in the trunk of my car (2005 CVPI). I’ve connected the keypad/control panel to the amplifier with the provided USB cable.
However everything (the amp, the keypad) is powered with just the ignition cable under the steering wheel, as I do not want the keypad constantly running as to not drain the battery.
I’m very confused how to go about this. Where exactly am I supposed to hook the keypad and amplifier up?
Is the amplifier supposed to be directly connected to the battery for constant power? And is the keypad supposed to be wired to the ignition cable?
Apologies for the confusion, but again I have never done this before and want to make sure everything is foolproof. Thank you.
This is my first install of emergency equipment and I’m very confused about the wiring diagram of my Code 3 Z3.
I have the amplifier mounted in the trunk of my car (2005 CVPI). I’ve connected the keypad/control panel to the amplifier with the provided USB cable.
However everything (the amp, the keypad) is powered with just the ignition cable under the steering wheel, as I do not want the keypad constantly running as to not drain the battery.
I’m very confused how to go about this. Where exactly am I supposed to hook the keypad and amplifier up?
Is the amplifier supposed to be directly connected to the battery for constant power? And is the keypad supposed to be wired to the ignition cable?
Apologies for the confusion, but again I have never done this before and want to make sure everything is foolproof. Thank you.
Upvote
0
We understand your confusion, and I would like to add that you can easily burn your car down without trying when wiring without knowledge. With that said, your first issue should be to wire constant power from battery to the amp, you could put a switch inline on your ignition feed so the co troller would not be “on” until you power it on.
Upvote
0