Wiring up a Unitrol 480KR

[toon80]

Hello everyone


Here's my used Unitrol 480KR and I will need your help to wire this one up for display purpose; not to go in a car.


I have figured a few things up but to be sure, I numbered all the different wires and would ask you to tell me what everything does. I already checked the fedsig webpage for the installation manual. Lots of useful infos but I need some more from you guys. when I put these "(??)", I need help please.


From the numbered circles, here it is:


1-Amplifier to control head connection. They were not connected when I got it but they fit together. I think this is how they go.


2-Motion sensor connector(??). If so, I will not use it.


3-Microphone connector (??)


4-Red blade connector. No idea what it's for.


5, 6, 10 & 11- Looks too like microphone connectors (??)


7-Main positive + power connection.


8-No idea (??)


9-Lightbar output, as well a ground unit (??) for the whole system.


So, this is to be used for display with a LAPD all light AeroDynic 25.


I am just interested in making the lightbar working and having the proper siren/PA functions.


Another thing is the big MDR connectors. Seems to me this model is discontinued. Anyone knows the proper gauge I need if I have to replace them with more modern one?


Lastly, with item no.9, lightbar connector, some wires tell "1", "1-2", "2", "2-3", "3". I guess they are for the slide switch position options. How would I wire this to the lightbar cable.


The only other siren I hooked up was a PA15A to a 24EAH Aerodynic, so I'm quite new to this beast.


Thanks for your help!


Toon

 

[toon80]

Ok, after a more thorough search of the data sheet from Fedsig, a few things are beginning to clarify.


As someone here stated before: "relays, my friends, relays"...


But, numbered "8" in my picture, is this the plug for accessories rocker switches, aka, takedowns and alleys?

 

[CHIEFOPS]

Plug 11 is a Motorola dash-mount Spectra speaker/ignition connector

 

[toon80]

Thanks, CHIEFOPS

 

[SoloRTP]

Take a good look at the wires -- they are labeled as to what they do.


The motion sensor lead activates a steady-pitch alarm when you supply 12V+.


The "microphone connector" is an adapter that goes to the radio mic. When you push the white button on the front, the radio mic is switched to PA. They make adapter plates for the major make/model mics. The other wires from that go to the radio.


Plug 8 is from the accessory switch module.


Plug 9 is the primary connection to lights, horn right, etc.

 

[toon80]

@ SoloRTP, thank you!


I figured about the "number 9" 12 pins connector. The labelled wires are pretty self-explanatory. I understand that I will need relays and probably diodes to act as non-return valves to control the slide switch outputs.


Thanks for the radio plug tips, I didn't know they still made adapter plugs for that. Do you know who could supply some?


Number 8 is accessories. Thanks!

 

[SoloRTP]

The bar switch is rated to 60 amps, so unless you are putting a lot of stuff on it, you won't need relays.


Check with Unitrol for the adapters, or just modify the one you have to fit the mic and radio that you want to use.


80K - Sirens | Federal Signal


BTW, what you have is an 80K siren with 480 control head that has the optional Radio / PA switch.


It also appears that you have the wildly unpopular single-unit configuration. Most of the Series 80 sirens were a two-part system with a cable going between them. If you look at your unit, you will see that the siren and control head are joined only by the case cover and by a 3-pin and a 12-pin nylon connector. You can get or make the separate case covers, or just cut what you have (I wouldn't -- every now and then someone shows up here looking for the one-piece cover). There is nothing special about the cable, so you can make it yourself in whatever length you like.

 

[toon80]

The bar switch is rated to 60 amps, so unless you are putting a lot of stuff on it, you won't need relays

Thanks again for these informations! I intend to only put an All-light LAPD AeroDynic on it.


The switch is 60 amps, but oddly, the wires are limited as follow. I copy-pasted from the install manual from fedsig.


CURRENT LIMITS


1. Model 280: 15A Total. Limit of wire : 15A.


2. Model 480: 60A Total. Limit each wire:


1/15 amperes


1-2/15 amperes


1-2-3/20 amperes


2-3/20 amperes


3/20 amperes


Switched to 1-2-3, the AeroDynic will run 6 rotators, 1 motor, 2 alternating flashers, 2 front steady burns and two alternating takedowns. That roughly draws close to 450 watts. So give or take, around 35 amps. The slide switch takes it well, but the numbered wire? Hence my tendency to use relays.


Am I wrong here (I hope so), or do the wires CAN take this amperage pull?


For the 1-piece cover, as of now, I want to keep original. If I ever have the place and money to buy, restore, and store a 89 Caprice 9C1, I will separate the chassis, lol!

 

[SoloRTP]

I'm pretty sure you have this figured out, but just in case, the numbered wires are hot with the bar switch in the appropriate position (1-2-3 hot all, 3 only when in position 3, etc).


Most applications have multiple levels of warning -- in California, the standard is 1 rear ambers, 2 is the steady-red to the front, 3 is the whole show.


I've been using Unitrol since 1981. I even sold them for a while. I've never had a problem with their wires, even in Arizona and Nevada summers.

 

[EVModules]

I've worked with Unitrol since the first day I started in this industry as an installer. You've got a lot of info. The 60a rating is the total that the switch can handle. The numbers on the wires simply signify that it is "hot" when the switch is in any of the positions labeled on the wire. 1-2-3 is wired for rear lighting, 2-3 is steady red's, and 3 for all bar. it's not often that the 1 or the 1-2 wire gets used. Generally reserved for certain lightbars with cut-off options such as the Jetstreams with certain options for example. The CHP's known to have 1-2 wired to the rear flashing amber and in 3, the rear flashing red & blue takes over.


Regarding the mic adapter, Unitrol has, and still do, have adapters to work with different radios. It's designed to simply eliminate the dedicated PA mic by using the 2-way radio microphone to do double duty.


With the AeroDynic, I'd suggest using a large amperage relay because it's too much for the #3 wire. It's not that the wire can't handle it, but the pins in the white connectors which often browns out by overheating. It's not uncommon for the wires be bypassed if the relay is not used.


+1 on the cover. Keep it intact, it's getting rarer. If you were to use it in a Caprice, there's a bezel for it to put it in the dash if you don't mind eliminating the stock radio but I doubt you'd want to do that.

 

[toon80]

Thanks, EVModules, and everybody else who helped and replied. These infos are exactly what I needed to go on with my project.


I'll let you know the progress as it unfolds

 

[toon80]

Thanks to all, it now works!


I got a project box with momentary switches for the Horn ring and the foot switch.


No all that's left to do is to restore my all-light LAPD AeroDynic, find a wire harness for it, and voilà!


Thanks again for everyone's help!!

 

[2004p71]

very interesting info , it,s all i needed to wire up mine

what is the purpose of the motion sensor ?

 

[toon80]

Some kind of car alarm if someone gets too close when the car is "off", I think.