Your Advice for Hooking This Siren Up!

[DalmatProd]

Hello all! So, I've finally been feeling well enough to get into my home office and start working on the small collection. First, I finally found a worthwhile and fairly priced 50 AMP peak power supply. (It's the QJE model PS50SW III, on Amazon for $158+). It works like a dream and have not had a single problem with it. Using it, I finally was able to test my Code 3 V-Con that MtnMan did such a great job refurbishing for me.


After testing it, I set about attaching some standardized connectors (some simple lug male/females) on most of my wire ends. I've also been able to re-test my four electronic sirens and two mini-bars. Then I came to my apparent, FS Model "E" electro-mechanical siren (pictured). As you can see, there is one long wire coming out from one hole into the inner workings. However, with a second wire visible, I'm a bit hesitant to connect a negative lead, without knowing for sure of there is a specific spot internally that has been lost or if I just need to ground the (-) lead to anywhere on the metal body. Your thoughts?


And speaking of "bodies," I've learned that Novus is a popular choice here for cleaning the lenses for the mini-bars. But what do you suggest for cleaning up the siren? Here is what it looks like in three files:











The motor housing I can take care of with some black spray paint.


So whatever you suggest, I'm willing to give it a try (other than giving you the siren!


Best regards and many thanks,


Steve


DalmatProd

 

[Knight347]

If memory serves me right they ground through the body specifically the mounting bracket.

 

[DalmatProd]

Which is the one part that I don't have!! LOL

 

[wfdstation42]

Connect positive to the wire and ground to any part of the metal chassis.

 

[DalmatProd]

Thanks for the feed back. I'll double-check the continuity with my meter and then give it a try.


I just remembered one other question. I spent some time looking for, what I would call, "heavy-duty" electrical connectors, i. e. male/female disconnects, and other types of connectors, but all I could find were the "standard" types, that, to me, seem too lightweight to stand up to the strong, repeated processes of connecting & disconnecting to hook up and test the pieces in my collection.


With so many up fitters on ELB, I'm looking for suggestions for some stronger, more "professional" connectors. Any suggestions for a brand or place to look for these?? I did buy a small case in one of the major automotive chain stores that included several types of connectors, but they were the same lightweight one you'd use in a hobby kit.


Thanks again very much!!


Steve


DalmatProd

 

[Skip Goulet]

Thanks for the feed back. I'll double-check the continuity with my meter and then give it a try.

I just remembered one other question. I spent some time looking for, what I would call, "heavy-duty" electrical connectors, i. e. male/female disconnects, and other types of connectors, but all I could find were the "standard" types, that, to me, seem too lightweight to stand up to the strong, repeated processes of connecting & disconnecting to hook up and test the pieces in my collection.


With so many up fitters on ELB, I'm looking for suggestions for some stronger, more "professional" connectors. Any suggestions for a brand or place to look for these?? I did buy a small case in one of the major automotive chain stores that included several types of connectors, but they were the same lightweight one you'd use in a hobby kit.


Thanks again very much!!


Steve


DalmatProd

Steve: This one doesn't use all that much "juice". You could use 10ga. wire to be safe. If you mount it on a car or on a display, you should use a siren solenoid, a Ford can-type starter solenoid will work. PM me and I'll tell you how to hook it up.

 

[MtnMan]

I just remembered one other question. I spent some time looking for, what I would call, "heavy-duty" electrical connectors, i. e. male/female disconnects, and other types of connectors, but all I could find were the "standard" types, that, to me, seem too lightweight to stand up to the strong, repeated processes of connecting & disconnecting to hook up and test the pieces in my collection.

Anderson Powerpoles

 

[Knight347]

Anderson Powerpoles

What he said.

 

[DalmatProd]

Well, ladies and gents, I finally took some time earlier this afternoon to try to feed power to the siren. I made a direct connection from the + lead on the power supply to that white wire that's in the picture. Then, I rigged up a wire, connected to the - lead, with some extra bare wire on the other end.


I turned on the power supply and, following the advice of several people here, grounded out the negative wire to several locations on the body. There were sparks and a low "growl." AND, as you heard the growl, the entire housing want to spin! However, with each spark, it kicked the breaker on the power supply. I tried several locations on the rear section to find a single point to ground the siren, but no luck.


I guess it's back to the drawing board! ;-)


Steve


DalmatProd

 

[wfdstation42]

View attachment 62120

The ground can be attached to one of the bolts on the bottom of the siren in the above pic. You can not just let the siren sit there unsecured while you try to spin it up, the torque will spin the housing. You need to hold it down. Sounds like your power supply may not have enough amps to power it if the breaker keeps popping.

 

[DalmatProd]

Thanks for the suggestion. I did touch the negative wire to both terminals that you pointed out, but there was no activation of the unit when I tried.


There are 2 bolts/nuts on the bottom of the unit. I'll touch base with my neighbor and we'll fashion a base for the unit to reign in the torque by putting my feet on either side of the board.


Thanks again for the suggestions.


Steve

 

[Skip Goulet]

Thanks for the suggestion. I did touch the negative wire to both terminals that you pointed out, but there was no activation of the unit when I tried.
There are 2 bolts/nuts on the bottom of the unit. I'll touch base with my neighbor and we'll fashion a base for the unit to reign in the torque by putting my feet on either side of the board.


Thanks again for the suggestions.


Steve

Steve: When the siren torqued, did the rotor spin? If you're using a power supply, that motor may be too much amperage for it to handle. Try it using your jumper cables and car battery, if you can. If it's a 6-volt siren, which I think you said before, if you just barely put "juice" to it...not enough to wind to peak...it won't hurt it. Ground to the base of the siren and see what happens.

 

[DalmatProd]

Skip,


Thanks. As for the voltage, I assumed it was 12, as there were no labels or emblems on what I have. I'm not sure if a piece of housing is missing, as is the base.


The power supply I have is a 50AMP peak, 30-40 continuous. And yes, when she tried to torque-twist, I did get a nice growl.


I'll try to find my jumper cables somewhere, as I also have a terrific Celestron (the telescope company) power tank to use, not only for my 'scope, but for sirens & lights as well!


Steve

 

[Skip Goulet]

Skip,
Thanks. As for the voltage, I assumed it was 12, as there were no labels or emblems on what I have. I'm not sure if a piece of housing is missing, as is the base.


The power supply I have is a 50AMP peak, 30-40 continuous. And yes, when she tried to torque-twist, I did get a nice growl.


I'll try to find my jumper cables somewhere, as I also have a terrific Celestron (the telescope company) power tank to use, not only for my 'scope, but for sirens & lights as well!


Steve

That siren appears to be quite old, although I haven't seen the rear housing. If you're getting a bit of resistance along with that torque, it may well be a 6-volt siren. If you have a 6-volt source, try using it; and if it turns very slowly on 6, then you can figure it being a 12-volt siren. If it revs up extremely quickly on 12-volts, then it's probably 6. Another way of telling, if the end of the wire looks like it wants to burn a bit before allowing the siren to spin, that's also an indication of a 6-volt siren being tried on 12.

 

[DalmatProd]

Thanks Skip. I'll have to see if I can find a six volt source, with a little cranking power. I doubt any of the Lantern Batteries I have in my hurricane stash have enough Amps to use it on the siren!! LOL


Steve

 

[Skip Goulet]

Thanks Skip. I'll have to see if I can find a six volt source, with a little cranking power. I doubt any of the Lantern Batteries I have in my hurricane stash have enough Amps to use it on the siren!! LOL

Steve

When you got the initial "growl" from the siren, did it seem to rise up very fast? If not, it's probably 12. Look on the motor, particularly where it junctions with the back of the stator. Sometimes the voltage is stamped on the motor. That would tell you for sure!

 

[DalmatProd]

Yes, the impeller did start to wind up quickly. I'll check the stater after dinner with a magnifying glass & see what I can come with.


Thanks!

 

[Skip Goulet]

Yes, the impeller did start to wind up quickly. I'll check the stater after dinner with a magnifying glass & see what I can come with.

Thanks!

If it rose up very quickly with just a bump of the juice to it, then I would still say 6-volt. If it's 6 and you want to use it on a 12-volt vehicle, you can do so, but remember that you don't want to wind it up to full peak and stay there. Just off and on like the way you've been testing it, and it won't hurt.

 

[DalmatProd]

Skip,


The siren will only be a part of my small collection. Right now, it is the only electro-mechanical siren I have. I just picked (from right here on ELB) a Federal Director dating back into the '60's. The only other siren I'm really interested in adding to the collection is one like a PowerCall, the early electronics that "thought" they had a stater and motor! LOL


Steve

 

[Skip Goulet]

Skip,
The siren will only be a part of my small collection. Right now, it is the only electro-mechanical siren I have. I just picked (from right here on ELB) a Federal Director dating back into the '60's. The only other siren I'm really interested in adding to the collection is one like a PowerCall, the early electronics that "thought" they had a stater and motor! LOL


Steve

An original G.E. Powercall is one of the few sirens I've never had. The few I've heard, though, will rattle your brain. If you can ever find an original Federal PA-1, those things sound more like a mechanical siren than a lot of the newer sirens with the mechanical function. I think that Tim (Henry455) has one on his You Tube page. I have a nice old Penetrator that came from Tim that sounds awesome, too.


Now you need to build up your motor siren collection, Steve. As you've read recently, my longtime friend Harold Welch, had his entire collection stolen; and sadly he passed away last Monday.

 

[DalmatProd]

Now you need to build up your motor siren collection, Steve. As you've read recently, my longtime friend Harold Welch, had his entire collection stolen; and sadly he passed away last Monday.

Skip,


My sincere condolences on Harold's passing. I know that he was a dear friend. Strangely enough, I just lost one of my dear friends the week before Harold passed away. Though he was 85 and I'm almost 62, we were "cigar buddies" having met at a local lounge 3 1/2 years ago. That loss is still very raw for me. Thus, may the memory of Harold, his loved and dedication to his "family" and community always serve as a blessing.


I was very disturbed by the subject of that post that his own children would rob their own father. No sirens, lights, or anything else is worth breaking family bonds and disrespecting one's parents.


Back to our topic - I just went over the siren with a fine-toothed magnifying glass. There are no imprints or anything similar, anywhere on the body of the unit. What I did notice and what just surprised me, is that while there are two screw holes on the front of the stator to mount the cover and two small bolts (only one has a washer and nut) on the bottom for mounting to a base, I found another hole opposite the front two, that, I believe, could only be for a larger housing that must enwrap the entire motor, stem, and half of the depth of the stator!


Additionally, my desires do go beyond the PowerCall! LOL I wouldn't mind landing a Federal model 66 or a Sterling. However, those two would probably have to wait until after I win either the Mega Millions or PowerBall!


Steve

 

[Skip Goulet]

Skip,

My sincere condolences on Harold's passing. I know that he was a dear friend. Strangely enough, I just lost one of my dear friends the week before Harold passed away. Though he was 85 and I'm almost 62, we were "cigar buddies" having met at a local lounge 3 1/2 years ago. That loss is still very raw for me. Thus, may the memory of Harold, his loved and dedication to his "family" and community always serve as a blessing.


I was very disturbed by the subject of that post that his own children would rob their own father. No sirens, lights, or anything else is worth breaking family bonds and disrespecting one's parents.


Back to our topic - I just went over the siren with a fine-toothed magnifying glass. There are no imprints or anything similar, anywhere on the body of the unit. What I did notice and what just surprised me, is that while there are two screw holes on the front of the stator to mount the cover and two small bolts (only one has a washer and nut) on the bottom for mounting to a base, I found another hole opposite the front two, that, I believe, could only be for a larger housing that must enwrap the entire motor, stem, and half of the depth of the stator!


Additionally, my desires do go beyond the PowerCall! LOL I wouldn't mind landing a Federal model 66 or a Sterling. However, those two would probably have to wait until after I win either the Mega Millions or PowerBall!


Steve

Thanks for the comments about Harold, Steve. I had known him for more than 45 years. He had been the fire chief in Seagraves, a small town about 65 mi. NE of here. My late cousin had been chief before him. Over the years we traded a lot of sirens back and forth. I'd get one and he'd like it, so I'd let him have it, and a few months I'd get it back. Same way if he came up with something. His collection numbered more than 50 sirens. In the mix that was taken were at least four of mine that I had taken to him for him to "tinker" on. And you're right about the daughters, but they inherit nothing. When he discovered what they had done, he changed his will. His lady friend,Louise, who was there for him when his wife died a few years ago, inherits the whole thing. She thinks that some of the sirens are still here in Texas. It's just a matter of getting the daughters to say where they were sold.


And get this! Laura, the older daughter, told the cops that the reason she got in and sold all the sirens and his cherished steam whistles was because she thought he was going broke and couldn't afford his medical expenses. All that was already covered! She claims to have put the money in his bank account, but Louise has yet to confirm that! Really! Thanks again, Steve. Oh....if you like the 66s and Sterlings: I have a super-nice 66GH, the high-pitch model that was a Dorgan rebuild, and two Sterlings, a 30 and a 20, both of which Harold redid for me a couple of years ago. Thankfully I have them here with me.

 

[DalmatProd]

It's great you have those siren, Skip. Cherish them!


Now that I'm finally feeling better (I see the Doc tomorrow. Still may have to undergo one or two more procedures), I can get out and buy some materials to start cleaning everything up. The motor on the rear of the Model E is/was black, so I'll pick something up to restore that. Do you recommend a spray paint or a brush paint for something like that? For my lenses on my several lights, a number of people suggested I use Novus products (available on Amazon) instead of Meguiar's. I just bought the Interceptor from Hoser, as well as a Code 3 mini-bar. So, I'll have a little more to clean up as well.


But it's good. It gives me something to do during the day!

 

[DalmatProd]

With your thoughts in mind, Skip, I decided to wire the leads to the siren and then turn the power supply on. Sure enough, no sparks, a strong torque twist, (which I held with my hand) and a beautiful wind-up wail. So nice, in fact, that I've decided to pick up a set of ear protection for working on my sirens! Damn, if that little baby didn't scream like a Korean War ambulance bringing an injured GI to the nearest MASH team.


So now that I know how to wire it and that it works, I'll clean it and paint it and mount it on a sturdy piece of wood and pick-up that Ford solenoid to use as an off/on switch.


BTW, I'm getting Novus for the plastic and paint for those areas that need it. But what do you suggest I use on the cover of the siren and the main body of it?


Thanks,


Steve

 

[Skip Goulet]

With your thoughts in mind, Skip, I decided to wire the leads to the siren and then turn the power supply on. Sure enough, no sparks, a strong torque twist, (which I held with my hand) and a beautiful wind-up wail. So nice, in fact, that I've decided to pick up a set of ear protection for working on my sirens! Damn, if that little baby didn't scream like a Korean War ambulance bringing an injured GI to the nearest MASH team.

So now that I know how to wire it and that it works, I'll clean it and paint it and mount it on a sturdy piece of wood and pick-up that Ford solenoid to use as an off/on switch.


BTW, I'm getting Novus for the plastic and paint for those areas that need it. But what do you suggest I use on the cover of the siren and the main body of it?


Thanks,


Steve

Well, at least we now know that it works....6 or 12. The E/W series of sirens had a decent sound to them and were adequate sirens if they were mounted outside or behind the grille. Under the hood they weren't all that loud. Texas DPS used the EGs for many years, but a lot of them were under the hood. One time I was walking from school to my grandmother's house and a DPS unit went right past me with the siren on, and even outside like that you couldn't hear it all that well. I haven't seen the rear housing, Steve, is it the bullet shaped housing or the rounded housing? The grille front looks chrome in the pictures, so if you're painting the siren, you would want something like Krylon's Bright Silver or something similar. If it has the rounded, gray housing, then you would want to use a gray enamel spray paint. Did you get the original bracket with the siren? I haven't seen that in the pictures. Before I leave this, I just went back and looked at the picture of the grille. It looks like it was painted black. For some reason it looked chrome at a glance. Most of the EG sirens were painted gray, but I have seen some of them black as well. They originally had a smooth, not shiny, look to them; so I would use a satin finish black for that. But since you're using it for display/demonstration purposes, you might actually want to use a gloss black to give it a bright shine. The reason I was thinking about a chrome finish is because the EGs were offered in chrome or paint finish. I have both: a chrome EG and a gray-painted EGH. The EGH is the high-pitched model...and it really shrieks! The WG was the same siren, but was chromed and had the bullet-shaped rear housing. Models after 1959 had the four-hole mounting bracket, not the pedestal-mount like the EGs used. WGs prior to 1959 had the two-hole pointed bracket like those used on the CP25/100 speakers. Sounds like you've got some work to do. I didn't realize that you'd been ill. Hope it all works out.

 

[DalmatProd]

Skip,


Thanks for the great info. The front grill is all chrome and from looking at it, one can deduce that the siren was mounted externally, as it displays numerous dings and other markings that make the deductions quite simply. The outer wall of the stator is a dull gray/silver. I'd like to be able to get into the motor to update the wiring, rather than having that dirty white wire as the positive lead. The other item I need is some sort of button-style switch to insert between the siren and the power supply. Since I own only one power supply (for now....shhhhh, don't let the wife know!), I've used 12 gauge wire to create power leads for all my other items in the collection and the power supply, with simply male/female lug connectors. I wired all that up last week, even my Tripp-Lite mini siren! So for now, I can only power one item at a time. The power supply does have 12V female cigar plug on the front of the unit, thus I could always wire up a cigar plug to one of the items. Probably would be best to do that with the electronic sirens, since there draw is minimal compared to the Code 3 Force 4 Mini XL, or the SVP 2000. I also have another Code 3 mini bar coming in any day now, along with the Interceptor I told you about yesterday.


Steve

 

[Skip Goulet]

Skip,
Thanks for the great info. The front grill is all chrome and from looking at it, one can deduce that the siren was mounted externally, as it displays numerous dings and other markings that make the deductions quite simply. The outer wall of the stator is a dull gray/silver. I'd like to be able to get into the motor to update the wiring, rather than having that dirty white wire as the positive lead. The other item I need is some sort of button-style switch to insert between the siren and the power supply. Since I own only one power supply (for now....shhhhh, don't let the wife know!), I've used 12 gauge wire to create power leads for all my other items in the collection and the power supply, with simply male/female lug connectors. I wired all that up last week, even my Tripp-Lite mini siren! So for now, I can only power one item at a time. The power supply does have 12V female cigar plug on the front of the unit, thus I could always wire up a cigar plug to one of the items. Probably would be best to do that with the electronic sirens, since there draw is minimal compared to the Code 3 Force 4 Mini XL, or the SVP 2000. I also have another Code 3 mini bar coming in any day now, along with the Interceptor I told you about yesterday.


Steve

It would be nice if you had the rear housing. With the chrome grille, that tells me that it was at least a chrome EG or maybe a WG; and the rear housing would have the tag on it to tell us the voltage, model and serial number (also when it was built). To use a pushbutton, you might want to use a siren solenoid....basically an old Ford starter solenoid woud do, since that motor doesn't use a lot of amps; but it would use enough amperage if you used a common pushbutton or toggle switch w/o the solenoid to "fry" the switch.


So you've got one of the little Trippe sirens. Is it the VS1, with the chrome rear housing and the rest of it black plastic? I had a 6-volt model with the optional magnetic mount many, many years ago. While the siren would work with the cigarette lighter plug-in that came with the magnetic mount, it just didn't get enough current to spin the siren fast enough to make much noise. It's small enough already w/o adding to it. There was one of them on Ebay a few months back that I bid on but got beat. But when I stopped bidding the price was already up way too high. They only sold for $45 with the magnetic attachment when I got mine, would you beiieve, in 1964.

 

[DalmatProd]

Skip,


First, I just ran in and check the Tripp-Lite. It's an ES-4 and it's an electronic siren with two tones, wail and yelp. It's only about 7"x2"x2" I'd estimate. But part of the frame is extended and bent over to provide a 1/2" lip on either side for mounting. I don't remember who I bought it from here, but someone mounted it using Velcro, 'cause I have one side attached with a strong glue to the top.


As for the Federal "E," it's killing me not to have the housing. Not for the decorative angle, but for the information that you mentioned, i.e. its model number, serial number, etc. Again, as you said, at least it's working and once my neighbor and I build a strong mount for it and I clean it up, she should look decent. However, I think I'll start scouting around like at the Sirenman's site and a couple of others, to see if anyone may have a housing just laying around without a body.


You may not have been able to tell by the photo of the front of the Interceptor 20A-Series E siren I posted today in the thread about find the right post, but the outside is beat-to-hell filthy. I found a couple of videos of them on YouTube and it appears that the body was a light tan and the front plate was blue. While I can clean up, then paint the body, I think I'll have to to search around online to see if someone has a clean front plate I can acquire.


I should now be winding down on my acquisitions. I do have my "prize" coming in a couple of weeks, a Federal CJ-184 that is being restored and tested for me. I believe it's a clear dome with red and white bulbs.


Be well,


Steve

 

[ex416]

Steve, check w/Ryan on the blue face plate for the interceptor. he had some new reproduction ones listed on ebay a couple weeks ago. i think he may also have had a thread on them a while back.


here's the thread: http://elightbars.org/forums/f18/reproduction-federal-signal-pa-series-siren-face-label-29092/

 

[DalmatProd]

Steve, check w/Ryan on the blue face plate for the interceptor. he had some new reproduction ones listed on ebay a couple weeks ago. i think he may also have had a thread on them a while back.

here's the thread: http://elightbars.org/forums/f18/reproduction-federal-signal-pa-series-siren-face-label-29092/

=============================


Thank you for the heads-up. I apologize that I don't know your first name.


I'll drop Ryan a line and see if he has any of those faceplates left.


BYW, where is Chippewaw County in relation to Appleton/Outagamie?


Thanks,


Steve

 

[ex416]

=============================
Thank you for the heads-up. I apologize that I don't know your first name.


I'll drop Ryan a line and see if he has any of those faceplates left.


BYW, where is Chippewaw County in relation to Appleton/Outagamie?


Thanks,


Steve

it's about 200 miles west-northwest of appleton.

 

[DalmatProd]

it's about 200 miles west-northwest of appleton.

Thanks. Hope you weren't included in the early Winter that just came through the area!


Steve

 

[ex416]

Thanks. Hope you weren't included in the early Winter that just came through the area!

Steve

nope. that was a ways north of us. although seemingly like a reminder we had some light snow this morning w/just a light dusting that accumulated on the grassy areas.


Ken

 

[DalmatProd]

Ken - I lived in Syracuse for years and an October " dusting" wasn't uncommon. Of course, neither was a full-fledged lake effect storm that would drop six-to-ten inches of snow overnight. Thankfully, I was in the FD while there, so one of the guys with a 4-wheel drive Jeep and a plow cleared my driveway for me.


Steve

 

[ex416]

Ken - I lived in Syracuse for years and an October " dusting" wasn't uncommon. Of course, neither was a full-fledged lake effect storm that would drop six-to-ten inches of snow overnight. Thankfully, I was in the FD while there, so one of the guys with a 4-wheel drive Jeep and a plow cleared my driveway for me.

Steve

we had a winter that lasted into april, a wet spring that lasted into june, and then it turned into a drought after that. you'd think we would get a break from weather pretty soon.

 

[Skip Goulet]

Skip,

First, I just ran in and check the Tripp-Lite. It's an ES-4 and it's an electronic siren with two tones, wail and yelp. It's only about 7"x2"x2" I'd estimate. But part of the frame is extended and bent over to provide a 1/2" lip on either side for mounting. I don't remember who I bought it from here, but someone mounted it using Velcro, 'cause I have one side attached with a strong glue to the top.


As for the Federal "E," it's killing me not to have the housing. Not for the decorative angle, but for the information that you mentioned, i.e. its model number, serial number, etc. Again, as you said, at least it's working and once my neighbor and I build a strong mount for it and I clean it up, she should look decent. However, I think I'll start scouting around like at the Sirenman's site and a couple of others, to see if anyone may have a housing just laying around without a body.


You may not have been able to tell by the photo of the front of the Interceptor 20A-Series E siren I posted today in the thread about find the right post, but the outside is beat-to-hell filthy. I found a couple of videos of them on YouTube and it appears that the body was a light tan and the front plate was blue. While I can clean up, then paint the body, I think I'll have to to search around online to see if someone has a clean front plate I can acquire.


I should now be winding down on my acquisitions. I do have my "prize" coming in a couple of weeks, a Federal CJ-184 that is being restored and tested for me. I believe it's a clear dome with red and white bulbs.


Be well,


Steve

Wow...an ES4. I had one of those many years ago. Put it on one of my ambulances just to play with, and for only 25-watts, it did a decent job. It didn't compare to the 200-watt SVP siren I had on the ambulance, but it was fun to play with. I can't believe someone would let a nice old Interceptor get in such shape. Have you had a chance to see if it works? The suggestion of contacting Ryan would be fine if he keeps those kinds of parts. I don't have a non-working Interceptor, so I can help there.


I had never paid attention to your being in Florida. You need to get with Dennis (Torpedo) sometimes, as he could be of help with your sirens,etc. I was just looking again at the rear of your siren and noticed the antiquated wiring. Based on that, I would be almost sure now that the siren is 6-volt. But since it's not going on a vehicle, you shouldn't have any problem with that supply you have, provided that you don't stand down on it, which could burn that little motor. I think that Joe Dorgan has those motors, so if you have to, you could probably get a 12-volt motor from him, and I think he may have the housings as well.

 

[DalmatProd]

Skip - Ryan replied to my inquiry quickly to let me know that he does have the front plate. So that will work out well.


Thanks for letting me know about Instlr60 for other parts and renovations. That's one of the best aspects here - not only do people sell the items, but so many actually service them. Mtnman did a great job on my Code 3 V-Con siren, not only replacing the internal fuse, but he cleaned it all up and it works great.


BTW, the little ES-4 is a cute little bugger & even thought she has a low output watt-wise, she lets quite the wail or yelp fly. That must have been fun when you added it to your ambulance!!

 

[DalmatProd]

Hey folks,


Kind of got carried away on this thread, but I very much enjoy chatting with each and every one of you, whether by thread, PM, or chatroom. However, I forgot to ask an important question, to wit: I know about using Novus products for cleaning up my domes, but what do you suggest I use to clean up various pieces of chrome, i.e. front of my Federal Model E siren, the base of my Code 3 mini-bars, etc.?


Thanks!

 

[Skip Goulet]

Hey folks,

Kind of got carried away on this thread, but I very much enjoy chatting with each and every one of you, whether by thread, PM, or chatroom. However, I forgot to ask an important question, to wit: I know about using Novus products for cleaning up my domes, but what do you suggest I use to clean up various pieces of chrome, i.e. front of my Federal Model E siren, the base of my Code 3 mini-bars, etc.?


Thanks!

I may be mistaken, but I think Maguire's has some good chrome polish available at most parts houses. If not, I'd bet some old-fashioned Brasso would work, too.

 

[DalmatProd]

OK, sounds good. I'll probably head out tomorrow to check them out.


Thanks!