STT Installer
Member
Repost from the interim board now that it's been taken offline completely per Jman due to conflicts with the search engine. Luckily I found a snap shot of it (original thread is here)
Couple things we've used in the past on hard to install non-purpose built vehicles (Porche, Hummer, F250)...
Use an Xacto knife to score the the firewall grommet - anything blunter will usually push the grommet clean through the firewall.
Lube lube lube. We've used WD40 and PB Blaster with horrible results (smells awful). Residential/Commercial electricians use a clear odorless wire lube product for pulling through conduit - works great to free up a firewall grommet when pulling through it. EDIT: you can pick this up in the Electrical tools area of your local Lowes or Home Depot next to the wire nuts
Fishing through the gasket can be a pain when trying a coat hanger - we've used a decommissioned VHF 5/8 wave antenna (about 48" long) with the end "eye protector" pulled off so it's just a straight rod with a coil at the end.. Works great for fishing and putting through the first leg of a harness. Use electrical tape to tie the wire to the antenna and pull through.
Same antenna works well for fishing across a headliner.
The backing plate off of boat anchor radios (i.e. Micor/Mitrek/Spectra/Syntor) work quite well between a roof and headliner for protection when drilling for antennas.
When drilling for antennas or anything in the painted surfaces of a vehicle, we always drill a small pilot hole to ensure we're perfectly centered.
When drilling on paint, always mask the area to be drilled with masking tape - helps prevent scratches from shrapnel, pressure of drilling and the occasional missed pilot hole.
On any hole through the body, use automotive primer in a nail polish bottle on the inside rim of the hole to prevent rust. 9 times out of 10 the contact for the antenna is made on the backside of the roof anyways.
Cling on window tinting (used to find it cheap at Walmart) works great for rear windows to prevent damage when installing deck lights (only takes one missed turn on a ratchet wrench to scratch the permanent window tint).
Larger power cables (8 gauge+) usually gets the end cut in to a point to ease fishing through grommets.
Use a zip tie puller every time for correct tension - especially with coax cable. 50 ohms doesn't stay 50 ohms for very long if you squeeze it flat with a zip tie.
Speaking of zip ties, the acceptable color for zip tie is BLACK... Not neon or white/natural/clear.
When working in cold weather, always cover with either duck tape or gaffers tape any exposed metal buttons on your coat & pants - they WILL scratch the paint when you lean across the fenders.
Use a silicone grease on quick connects that are exposed to the weather (i.e. grille/under hood). TruckLite makes a decent grease; RadioShack usually stocks a variant. Not only does it prevent corrosion/oxidation, it makes it MUCH easier to disconnect/reconnect the fittings when you're replacing/repairing/decommissioning the vehicle.
Use blue painters masking tape (the long term stuff) in 2" width to premark to the location of all of the lights going on the vehicle, along with all access holes and antenna locations. Write a short description with a sharpie on it.
Coil wrap works well for high abrasion areas; split loom everything else.
If its not fully potted, it likely was never designed for under hood installation
Make a laminated copy of the entire installation diagram and bill of materials to place in the glove box - make a second copy and tuck it in to the bottom of the passenger seat for safe keeping.
Got busy at the office, I'll try to add some more I think of later...
Couple things we've used in the past on hard to install non-purpose built vehicles (Porche, Hummer, F250)...
Use an Xacto knife to score the the firewall grommet - anything blunter will usually push the grommet clean through the firewall.
Lube lube lube. We've used WD40 and PB Blaster with horrible results (smells awful). Residential/Commercial electricians use a clear odorless wire lube product for pulling through conduit - works great to free up a firewall grommet when pulling through it. EDIT: you can pick this up in the Electrical tools area of your local Lowes or Home Depot next to the wire nuts
Fishing through the gasket can be a pain when trying a coat hanger - we've used a decommissioned VHF 5/8 wave antenna (about 48" long) with the end "eye protector" pulled off so it's just a straight rod with a coil at the end.. Works great for fishing and putting through the first leg of a harness. Use electrical tape to tie the wire to the antenna and pull through.
Same antenna works well for fishing across a headliner.
The backing plate off of boat anchor radios (i.e. Micor/Mitrek/Spectra/Syntor) work quite well between a roof and headliner for protection when drilling for antennas.
When drilling for antennas or anything in the painted surfaces of a vehicle, we always drill a small pilot hole to ensure we're perfectly centered.
When drilling on paint, always mask the area to be drilled with masking tape - helps prevent scratches from shrapnel, pressure of drilling and the occasional missed pilot hole.
On any hole through the body, use automotive primer in a nail polish bottle on the inside rim of the hole to prevent rust. 9 times out of 10 the contact for the antenna is made on the backside of the roof anyways.
Cling on window tinting (used to find it cheap at Walmart) works great for rear windows to prevent damage when installing deck lights (only takes one missed turn on a ratchet wrench to scratch the permanent window tint).
Larger power cables (8 gauge+) usually gets the end cut in to a point to ease fishing through grommets.
Use a zip tie puller every time for correct tension - especially with coax cable. 50 ohms doesn't stay 50 ohms for very long if you squeeze it flat with a zip tie.
Speaking of zip ties, the acceptable color for zip tie is BLACK... Not neon or white/natural/clear.
When working in cold weather, always cover with either duck tape or gaffers tape any exposed metal buttons on your coat & pants - they WILL scratch the paint when you lean across the fenders.
Use a silicone grease on quick connects that are exposed to the weather (i.e. grille/under hood). TruckLite makes a decent grease; RadioShack usually stocks a variant. Not only does it prevent corrosion/oxidation, it makes it MUCH easier to disconnect/reconnect the fittings when you're replacing/repairing/decommissioning the vehicle.
Use blue painters masking tape (the long term stuff) in 2" width to premark to the location of all of the lights going on the vehicle, along with all access holes and antenna locations. Write a short description with a sharpie on it.
Coil wrap works well for high abrasion areas; split loom everything else.
If its not fully potted, it likely was never designed for under hood installation
Make a laminated copy of the entire installation diagram and bill of materials to place in the glove box - make a second copy and tuck it in to the bottom of the passenger seat for safe keeping.
Got busy at the office, I'll try to add some more I think of later...