rohmers said:you bet your damn ass i will!!
my main question is, do i need to do anything special to protect my truck or the siren? i plan on running the 4ga wire that it needs. but will this kill my truck when i use it?
i see youtube videos of this on a jeep not running and the thing is peaking alot. is that safe? i know its twelve volts but can my truck handle it? i have a 96 tahoe 5.7L
fire1 said:You have a 140 amp stock alternator. At night with all your lights on, it will max out your alt, put a high output on. Something like this. HIGH OUTPUT ALTERNATOR ASTRO BLAZER TAHOE S10 EXPRESS 4.3 5.0 5.7 6.5 7.4 220AMP | eBay
rohmers said:gonna custom make a bracket between the front rails under the radiator.
rohmers said:Thanks for the vote in confidence.
Skip Goulet said:Even with the high-output alternator, it wouldn't hurt to add a second battery, if you have room for it. Many years ago that's what we did with our 1965 Olds VistaCruiser ambulance. It came with a 100-amp alternator. For emergency equipment we had a roof-mounted Q flanked by four DoRay lollipop lights (two on each side of the Q), a Federal 174 beacon back over the VistaCruiser "hump", red and blue spotlights and red and blue grille lights. We took it to the local Sears and told them that we wanted two of their best Die-Hard batteries and wanted it hooked up so that if we turned on all that stuff, including the headlights on bright and then "romped" on the Q, we didn't want any of the lights dimming down. They used two big Die-Hard truck batteries on the wagon. We had used the kind of solenoid described above. The solenoid was a grounding-type. It had a single terminal on top that went to the foot button and from the foot button to ground. So what we did was to run the large 4 ga. cable from the solenoid to the number two battery, as well as the wiring for the lights. Then they ran the "hot" cable from Battery 2 to the hot side of Battery 1. Worked just fine. We could light that wagon up and run the Q, along with the Federal Interceptor with grille mounted speaker, and none of the lights would dim. Worked like a charm.
As to the Ford solenoid you suggested: they will work, but they're not the grounded type. On it there are two terminals on top. The left terminal goes to your foot button and from the button to hot. The right terminal you can use a small wire to go from it to the large right terminal on the side that will go with the large 4 ga. cable that goes to the battery. Your Q cable will go to the left side of the solenoid, regardless of which solenoid you use. By the way: you do have a brake on that thing, don't you? You didn't mention it.
WS224 said:You'll end up tearing it off or damaging it eventually.
Skip Goulet said:If you're gonna mount it like that...for Pet's sake, use a decent bracing bracket or the torque and vibration will tear it up or mess up your bumper or radiator area!
WS224 said:My wife has a Tahoe. Maybe I am envisioning what he intends incorrectly, but a 10" siren hanging under the radiator is going to be inches off the ground.
rohmers said:i hear AND understand that comments about the torque and stuff. i have a body shop guy that can weld any bracket in place. i was thinking bolt and weld to the frame rails and use some thick stuff. i mean like 1 inch steel.
i did look at putting it in the engine bay but could find a spot that i thought would be strong enough to hold the Q when activated.
i know that Ford Dealer mounted a Q to his suburaban under the hood but it was an older truck and more metal and frame under the hood to mount to.
i am not set on any one design at this time, but this is the best i have at the moment.
ryan81986 said:I know you already have the Q but if I were you I would just go with a federal 28. It's smaller, no fancy chrome to ruin and I believe it uses a little less power. And it sounds just as good. Then put the Q on display or something.
rohmers said:i hear AND understand that comments about the torque and stuff. i have a body shop guy that can weld any bracket in place. i was thinking bolt and weld to the frame rails and use some thick stuff. i mean like 1 inch steel.
i did look at putting it in the engine bay but could find a spot that i thought would be strong enough to hold the Q when activated.
i know that Ford Dealer mounted a Q to his suburaban under the hood but it was an older truck and more metal and frame under the hood to mount to.
i am not set on any one design at this time, but this is the best i have at the moment.
rohmers said:i am now considering selling the Q or trading it for a E-Q2B. I would want the same sound just cheaper and easier to accomplish.
rohmers said:i am now considering selling the Q or trading it for a E-Q2B. I would want the same sound just cheaper and easier to accomplish.
anyone interseted let me know. i will be posting in the the new classifieds.
thanks so much for everyones input thus far.
Skip Goulet said:You might give some of us a chance here first before you post on the classifieds. Any idea what you want? Does this siren have the rear housing? From the way you've wanted to mount it, I assumed not. thanks.
rohmers said:It does have al the metal. Its just not.perfect. big dent on rear and the grille looks dimpled. I have no problem selling it to someone that has posted in this thread.
Quentin said:Bolt it to 3/4 MDF or something strong cut to the size of the box. Fill with Peanuts or stuffing. Mark which side is up. DO NOT PUT A LIGHTBAR DOME OVER IT, or it will be smashed!