FedSig Multi-Color Impaxx

[ryanm]

Mark
I have a red/clear. I would like to be able to have the red flash and have the clear come on independent of the red. In other words I dont want to have to have the red flashing in order to use the takedown. Is this possible? If I can to get them to work this way I would put a pair on my running boards.


Can these be ran on a seprate flasher?

You want the white/clear to be steady, right? Not independently flashing?


If so, yes. Power the White+red wires for your single color solid operation. Power only the red wire for flashing operation.


I'm not sure what the current pull is for these yet. I'll have to test it. If it's less than 1A, you should be able to use a diode to isolate the control wires from each other (otherwise a diode and a relay).


switch 1 to the red wire only for flashing operation.


switch 2 to power the white wire and the red wire. Put a diode in line with THIS power output to the red so you can't feedback into the white control wire when turning on just the red wire.


You'll need to use a diode similar to this, rated for whatever the current (Amp) pull of the impaxx light is.


1N4003 Micro 1-Amp Diode - RadioShack.com

 

[Eric1249]

I have never had to do any wiring with a diode so thins will be interesting.


Thanks

 

[ryanm]

I have never had to do any wiring with a diode so thins will be interesting.
Thanks

I'll try to get a diagram later... as well as a current measurement.

 

[NHFDFF81]

so then there is no reason to buy these if I want to be able to have red flash and be able to switch over to blue?

 

[ryanm]

I have never had to do any wiring with a diode so thins will be interesting.
Thanks

The lights seem to pull just over 1A... so a relay is probably warranted.


See if this makes sense...


The issue is that both switches need to power the red wire to turn on the lighthead... but only one switch needs to power the white wire for steady burn. So you have to put the diode in between switch2's output and the trigger of the relay so that no power will feed back and turn on the white wire when you don't want it. Does this make sense?





Also... imagine the finished line between the relay terminal 86 (ground) and the ground line... it didn't scan quite right.

 

[ryanm]

so then there is no reason to buy these if I want to be able to have red flash and be able to switch over to blue?

Not that I can see... unless you want one of the colors to be steady burn.


The 2 color unit might behave differently... maybe where you could add the 2nd color to the flashing... but I really don't expect it to work that way.

 

[rwo978]

Until further updates, I don't see any benefit of these lightheads vs other similar lightheads when solely considering dual color. IMHO, each color should be separately switched like the Axixtech Chameleons. Obviously, the ability and technology to do this is there, it just has to be done.


Also, having to have the flashing mode running for the white steady wire to work... FAIL. These are obviously going to be using in situations where a 3-position switch is used. Because of this, other lights will be flashing along with them due to wiring constraints and 'officer simplicity'. Hit the TD/white wire and you'll get TD and steady, along with other lights still flashing. I can think of one specific situation where this would be detremental, DUI/DWI/OWI stops when completing SFSTs. It is generally frowned upon having flashing lights when completing the HGN test. Therefore, they wouldn't be able to be used unless the pair of lightheads were on their own switch.


Also, as someone else wanted to do on a running board, you'd have to have the lights flashing to have the 'puddle' lights work. They also, depending on size allowances (too small??) be able to be used as puddle/micro scene lights on engines, EMS rigs, or maybe even tow trucks. However, until that function works independantly, it's pretty worthless as to how most people want to use them.


My $.02.

 

[Sigma Safety]

...Also, having to have the flashing mode running for the white steady wire to work... FAIL.

All you have to do is hook the power for the flashing light and the power for the steady light together, and it'll be steady. No big deal, really. Depending on your switching setup you might have to add a diode.


That said, though, I can see you point about wanting a trigger wire that will turn the steady colour on without having to have anything else energized.

 

[SFD516]

Here is what I’m trying to accomplish,


I want to use the dual impaxx’s, I want to put two on the mirrors and two in the grille, was thinking 2 dual colors R/B and 2 single color reds. When needed i want the two dual colors would switch to blue and the red turn off. So in other words one side blue one half red.


All red mode (fire) would work on slide bar position 2,3


with an aux switch enabled any time i go into postion 2,3 it would kill the reds on the passenger side in the duals,and then the blue would activate for LAW mode. so when ever i hit the lights with aux on i have r/b, not all red and then have to switch.


Would this work with the impaxxs or?

 

[Quentin]

Here is what Im trying to accomplish,

I want to use the dual impaxxs, I want to put two on the mirrors and two in the grille, was thinking 2 dual colors R/B and 2 single color reds. When needed i want the two dual colors would switch to blue and the red turn off. So in other words one side blue one half red.


All red mode (fire) would work on slide bar position 2,3


with an aux switch enabled any time i go into postion 2,3 it would kill the reds on the passenger side in the duals,and then the blue would activate for LAW mode. so when ever i hit the lights with aux on i have r/b, not all red and then have to switch.


Would this work with the impaxxs or?

I'm going to strongly guess you can't with these


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[rwo978]

No, there is NO individual color option with these.

 

[Eric1249]

A friend of mine twisted together a couple of diodes and now I will be able to use the flashing red independent of the takedowns. They are going to go on my runningboards. He suggested not only do the takedowns come on with a switch, but when the interior lights come on. (when door opens) Do I just use a relay to do that?


The problem that I am having is finding some brackets for them. I checked a few websites, they have lights but no brackets.

 

[Quentin]

A friend of mine twisted together a couple of diodes and now I will be able to use the flashing red independent of the takedowns. They are going to go on my runningboards. He suggested not only do the takedowns come on with a switch, but when the interior lights come on. (when door opens) Do I just use a relay to do that?

The problem that I am having is finding some brackets for them. I checked a few websites, they have lights but no brackets.

Hook up a double trigger relay. So one power with a switch and the other wire with the door trigger.


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[Quentin]

Need help wiring my IPX6.


I got 4 heads on my pb. 1 on the driver, 2 to the front, 1 passenger


I want to wire them up so the white lights comes on as so, driver LA, front TD, passenger RA. No warning


They are all going to be sync for warning and using a SS2000SM


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[EVModules]

The lights seem to pull just over 1A... so a relay is probably warranted.
See if this makes sense...


The issue is that both switches need to power the red wire to turn on the lighthead... but only one switch needs to power the white wire for steady burn. So you have to put the diode in between switch2's output and the trigger of the relay so that no power will feed back and turn on the white wire when you don't want it. Does this make sense?





Also... imagine the finished line between the relay terminal 86 (ground) and the ground line... it didn't scan quite right.

Ryanm,


There's 3a diodes available.

 

[ryanm]

Ryanm,

There's 3a diodes available.

Good to know. I expected to find some bigger ones... but just hadn't run across any. I try to restrict them to triggering relays... so then I don't have to worry a lot about the current capacity.


Some 3a diodes should handle a pair of these just fine.

 

[ChangchungLeds]

Good to know. I expected to find some bigger ones... but just hadn't run across any. I try to restrict them to triggering relays... so then I don't have to worry a lot about the current capacity.

Some 3a diodes should handle a pair of these just fine.

I will recomend you 6A diode model part... I think that you can find it in radioshack

Need help wiring my IPX6.

I got 4 heads on my pb. 1 on the driver, 2 to the front, 1 passenger


I want to wire them up so the white lights comes on as so, driver LA, front TD, passenger RA. No warning


They are all going to be sync for warning and using a SS2000SM


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Quentin; I need to see your new lights in action...

 

[Quentin]

I will recomend you 6A diode model part... I think that you can find it in radioshack



Quentin; I need to see your new light in action...

I would have the white hook up by now if federal had the white cone on by its self. Imo this is a big PITA!


Now is the Diode weather proof? the wiring diagram I have in my head Is to install 2 diode's right at each light. One on the red so it won't back feed to my other lights. And the other on the white so when I turn on my warning it won't turn on the white


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[ChangchungLeds]

I would have the white hook up by now if federal had the white cone on by its self. Imo this is a big PITA!

Now is the Diode weather proof? the wiring diagram I have in my head Is to install 2 diode's right at each light. One on the red so it won't back feed to my other lights. And the other on the white so when I turn on my warning it won't turn on the white


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That is right... Yes, you can connect the diode close to the light, just solder the wires to the diode and cover with some heat shrink tubing...

 

[Quentin]

That is right... Yes, you can connect the diode close to the light, just solder the wires to the diode and cover with some heat shrink tubing...

I do like them over my linz6s. So I'm thinking heat shrink, tape, loom,


Btw this will be my first time using duodes


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[Eric1249]

Do the diodes have to be close to the light? My lights will be on my runningboards and I would like to have the diodes inside closer to my switches

 

[Quentin]

it depends how your lights are wired up. It's hard to tell with out looking first hand


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[Quentin]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dIhvLJsP7yQ&feature=youtube_gdata_player

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[EVModules]

Good to know. I expected to find some bigger ones... but just hadn't run across any. I try to restrict them to triggering relays... so then I don't have to worry a lot about the current capacity.

Some 3a diodes should handle a pair of these just fine.

There's 3a and 6a diodes. They are physically different from each other in size. I stick to 3a for all my installs and use 1a for relays since they are not too durable on their own when the leads may flex too much to the point of breaking off. When there's more than 3a "diode" requirement, I use a relay to act as a diode.


Quentin,


They can be placed anywhere. Just keep it out of water and solder them, don't use butt connections. Finish it with heat shrink and secure it with a loop or other means so there's no strain on the diode assembly at all.

 

[Quentin]

well i come to find out that if your lights are ALL sync "one master and others slaves" you can not have the slaves come on white with out the master


I have my lights setup 2 driver and 2 passenger. Master is on the driver side, and say I want the passenger side to come on as alleys, the master on the Driver side would have to be on.


I know I can wire up to work as two sync systems so they alleys work right, but I like having all my lights sync together. So I have it wired to be like a flood, all on all off.

 

[rwo978]

well i come to find out that if your lights are ALL sync "one master and others slaves" you can not have the slaves come on white with out the master

I have my lights setup 2 driver and 2 passenger. Master is on the driver side, and say I want the passenger side to come on as alleys, the master on the Driver side would have to be on.


I know I can wire up to work as two sync systems so they alleys work right, but I like having all my lights sync together. So I have it wired to be like a flood, all on all off.

:no: :hopeless: :no: :hopeless: :no: :suicide:


Dumb.

 

[Quentin]

:no: :hopeless: :no: :hopeless: :no: :suicide:

Dumb.

YES VERY!


I really wish they did this different.


1) White leds work without needing the master on.


2) White leds comes on with only needing 12v to the white wire.


Other then that i love how sync works, Only have to change the master lighthead to change them all. They are bright, even the flood mode lights up everything nicely. wish the price wasn't so high on them or i'd get 4 more

 

[runesson]

Really tempted by the three color option, but why cannot anyone make a three-color lighthead with true INDIVIDUAL control of the colors?


From what I can read here and elsewhere; the Impaxxes do NOT offer individual control?!


The SMN E6 offers individual control of two flashing colors (X, Y or X/Y), but has no steadyburn white? Seems to be the same with the chameleons?


So is there any option for those who want ONE lighthead that gives individual control of two flashing colors and steadyburn white? Seems like the ultimate lighthead and I can´t understand why nobody has made one yet...

 

[Solvarex]

Really tempted by the three color option, but why cannot anyone make a three-color lighthead with true INDIVIDUAL control of the colors?

From what I can read here and elsewhere; the Impaxxes do NOT offer individual control?!


The SMN E6 offers individual control of two flashing colors (X, Y or X/Y), but has no steadyburn white? Seems to be the same with the chameleons?


So is there any option for those who want ONE lighthead that gives individual control of two flashing colors and steadyburn white? Seems like the ultimate lighthead and I can´t understand why nobody has made one yet...

Probably demand, of which there is little. Some of us have needs for different colors at different times but most users have their lights for a single purpose and don't need to switch back and forth. The only agency that I know of which switches colors regularly is the Florida Highway Patrol as a result of their study. Seems that most dual or multicolor products are being developed more for marketing than any practical purpose; "Hey look Officer Friendly you can have red AND blue flash in the same light! That's what you need!"


Fact is a lighthead that alternates between colors is less effective than one that flashes the same color. Not having any "off-time" means colors will just blur together and appear to be on steady. The brain perceives the stark contrast between light and dark far better than a constant light that just shifts spectrum. Any multicolored lighthead that lacks individual color control is a gimmick to me.

 

[Carlos SpicyWeiner]

what exactly was FHP's Study?

 

[Solvarex]

They determined that blue is seen better at night and red is seen better in the daytime (or vice versa, but I think that is correct). Their fleet is equipped with Code 3 lightbars with photocells that automatically switch between colors depending on the time of day. One of the opposite colors to what the bar is flashing is still maintained somewhere on the vehicle, to the rear I believe. They also pioneered the low frequency sirens (Rumbler, Howler, etc.) that you see offered from some manufacturers. Overall an interesting study albeit questionable implementation. If you need one color at night and the other in the day, is it really that much more effective to have a color switching bar confusing motorists as to your affiliation versus having a simple red/blue split lightbar with both colors night and day?

 

[Quentin]

My setup dose nicely on the changing colors.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cn_IzE8NMCM&feature=youtube_gdata_player

 

[BB215]

That Valor looks incredible with the white option. Would LOVE to see one of those on my work car.

 

[Carlos SpicyWeiner]

They determined that blue is seen better at night and red is seen better in the daytime (or vice versa, but I think that is correct). Their fleet is equipped with Code 3 lightbars with photocells that automatically switch between colors depending on the time of day. One of the opposite colors to what the bar is flashing is still maintained somewhere on the vehicle, to the rear I believe. They also pioneered the low frequency sirens (Rumbler, Howler, etc.) that you see offered from some manufacturers. Overall an interesting study albeit questionable implementation. If you need one color at night and the other in the day, is it really that much more effective to have a color switching bar confusing motorists as to your affiliation versus having a simple red/blue split lightbar with both colors night and day?

hmm... i know they said red was better during the day... didn't know they had changing colored bars.. I'll have to keep an eye out now.


having red or blue in Florida doesn't really confuse motorist. Half the law enforcement uses red and blue. the other half use red or blue.

 

[JohnFireFan]

I have two Federal Signal IMPX620 (Red/White) LEDs. I want to put them on my display like so.


Slide Switch 1 - Red ONLY


Slide Switch 2 - Red and White Flashing


How is this possible? I know they have the takedown option but I want the white flashing lights to cut off during switch 1.

 

[Sigma Safety]

I have two Federal Signal IMPX620 (Red/White) LEDs. I want to put them on my display like so.

Slide Switch 1 - Red ONLY


Slide Switch 2 - Red and White Flashing


How is this possible? I know they have the takedown option but I want the white flashing lights to cut off during switch 1.

Just read through the install manual. It's easy to do. Set the white to flash when the Option wire is powered.