I'm trading my current '06 Silverado 2500HD LT for a newer (2011+) 2500HD Crew Cab standard bed diesel. Still trying to decide if I would rather do the LT trim (dual split bench seats) or the LTZ trim (center console) which I believe is shared with the Tahoe/Suburban. Has anyone put consoles/radios in either trim of this truck and can comment on how hard it is to do? I'm just wanting to mount two radios (one public safety, one railroad) a scanner and some form of light/siren control.
Silverado LT vs LTZ Consoles
- Thread starter DJIceman97
- Start date
C17LVFD
Member
If you're looking to use the drop in console made by havis or jotto and not a full blown console I think you'll come up short as far as space is concerned... I had the havis console drop in for awhile and really liked it but ended up trading it out for a 30" troy console which was VERY nice... Probably best to get the bench seat setup... although even in the LTZ trim you can still pull the center console and put in a full sized console... You'll just have more modifying to do.
Good Luck,
Seth
Good Luck,
Seth
Thanks Seth. I think I'm going to stick with finding an LT, I've found one for $35,000 with 63k miles and the Certified GM warranty, just gotta get the financing lined out. If I can't find a console I like I'll have a machine shop nearby try to build one. I won't necessarily need the 6th seat often but it doesn't hurt to have in case.
justavillain
Member
The center seat on the front has a "glovebox" under it with a 12v plug. I used that area to mount my remote siren and sho-me switch.
I personally didn't want to have anything showing and it worked out nice. I have a ccsb 11 Duramax LML. Try and locate an H&S tuner and ditch the dpf/scr and you'll have the best Duramax made! (I came from an 06 eclb Duramax lbz)
I personally didn't want to have anything showing and it worked out nice. I have a ccsb 11 Duramax LML. Try and locate an H&S tuner and ditch the dpf/scr and you'll have the best Duramax made! (I came from an 06 eclb Duramax lbz)
Looks like we're both on the same page! Have an '06 LBZ CCSB right now, 197,000 miles, and I'm pretty sure mine was cursed. Ball joints, EGR clogged, fuel injectors and glow plugs, CP3 pump (first one that mechanic has ever done and he's THE Duramax guy in the area), and up-pipe twice now. I'm eyeballing a Certified 2011 Silverado in Iowa right now, it's a pretty good drive away, but worth it IMHO. They're only asking $36k right now, with 63,000 miles on it. It will be for sure getting a tune (looking at PPEI Autocal) and I'm thinking about a 4" straight pipe like I have on my LBZ. Will be a while before that pipe goes in though because of the warranty, but I'm definitely tuning it.
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For the console I'm thinking about one of these and eventually would like to put a laptop arm on the right for me when sitting, or for my passenger. Plus that gives enough room for a 6th passenger if absolutely necessary. I'll be putting in a Kenwood TM281a for rail monitoring, a Kenwood NX-5000 series for fire, and a Uniden scanner (hopefully last two remote head) and some sort of basic light control.
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justavillain
Member
I bought mine with 17k on it and tuned it the week I bought it. No issues since other than my back up camera went out.
I've been removed from Duramax forum for a while but last I knew only the H&S could remove the dpf. I could be wrong though.
I've been removed from Duramax forum for a while but last I knew only the H&S could remove the dpf. I could be wrong though.
You may be right, I'll have to check again. Not sure if it's worth the BS or not though. Just glad I live in a state without emissions testing.
justavillain
Member
There really isn't much covered by the power train warranty.....
And most of the issues the truck has is body or the Def system.
Body is the 3rd break light leaking(mine did it) and the badges separate (my rear one did front I painted)
And unless they extend the unlimited warranty it's over that and on the power train. But that likely will be over soon for the 3 year time limit.
I had the work done at a shop for 200$ but I brought all the stuff to them. But from reading a lot on the internet there isn't much to it. Just drop the trans cross member and cut the pipe near the rear axle. That's about it.
And most of the issues the truck has is body or the Def system.
Body is the 3rd break light leaking(mine did it) and the badges separate (my rear one did front I painted)
And unless they extend the unlimited warranty it's over that and on the power train. But that likely will be over soon for the 3 year time limit.
I had the work done at a shop for 200$ but I brought all the stuff to them. But from reading a lot on the internet there isn't much to it. Just drop the trans cross member and cut the pipe near the rear axle. That's about it.
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I've already talked to the guy that's been fixing my truck, I'll probably have him do it. Did you see a noticeable improvement with the DPF delete? Is it worth the $$ including the tuning?
justavillain
Member
As far as performance it's really about the same the truck is impressive from the factory. The issue I had was the throttle response was so erratic. And the Def and raw fuel in the exhaust to burn soot got to me.
So I removed it and 0 issues since. I used/beta tested the quadzilla stealth 2 but I sold it when they over night shut down their business. Switched to the H&S and a guy on my department did the same with his Denali. I went with a mbrp exhaust he used a delete pipe but I wanted to get better flow.
I went with a 4" if I had to do it again I'd do a 5" no muffler. The throttle is smooth and it pulls like a dream now. I have 76k now. I also did a aFe stage 3 dry filter. But that's more for the filter than flow. According to the Internet the stock intake/filter is good for 500 hp
As for mpg it's really the same with the dpf as it now. Kind of weird but I'm not on the highway very long any more.
When I went down to Norfolk, VA from Grand Rapids, MI I got 26mpg doing 80ish on the freeway along the ohio/PA turnpike
So I removed it and 0 issues since. I used/beta tested the quadzilla stealth 2 but I sold it when they over night shut down their business. Switched to the H&S and a guy on my department did the same with his Denali. I went with a mbrp exhaust he used a delete pipe but I wanted to get better flow.
I went with a 4" if I had to do it again I'd do a 5" no muffler. The throttle is smooth and it pulls like a dream now. I have 76k now. I also did a aFe stage 3 dry filter. But that's more for the filter than flow. According to the Internet the stock intake/filter is good for 500 hp
As for mpg it's really the same with the dpf as it now. Kind of weird but I'm not on the highway very long any more.
When I went down to Norfolk, VA from Grand Rapids, MI I got 26mpg doing 80ish on the freeway along the ohio/PA turnpike
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