Whelen 994

Jun 18, 2013
3,725
PA
Finally getting a chance to wrap up this 994 Beacon I have been sitting on for more then 10 years.
Thanks to Frankenstein for sourcing me a retaining band, its not a 994 labeled band but at this point I don't care!

Clear dome really needed some work, I have an older video on my YT channel showing how yellowed it was to start with.
I ended up giving it the ol "Rob Special" treatment again, figured it worked for the Red Federal F1 dome.. so why not.

I'll have video up at some point when I have some time to do some editing.

994.jpg
 

JohnMarcson

Administrator
May 7, 2010
10,971
Northwest Ohio
Finally getting a chance to wrap up this 994 Beacon I have been sitting on for more then 10 years.
Thanks to Frankenstein for sourcing me a retaining band, its not a 994 labeled band but at this point I don't care!

Clear dome really needed some work, I have an older video on my YT channel showing how yellowed it was to start with.
I ended up giving it the ol "Rob Special" treatment again, figured it worked for the Red Federal F1 dome.. so why not.

I'll have video up at some point when I have some time to do some editing.

View attachment 236400
l like the cast bulb holders like this one has better than the closely grouped metal ring style.
 
  • Like
Reactions: kitn1mcc
Jun 18, 2013
3,725
PA
  • Like
Reactions: JohnMarcson
Cool beacon & great job on the dome! I would love to know your process…I have a pair of clear SignalStat DualComm domes that were so clouded, I couldn’t see that one of the rotators was missing! Bar is now complete, but after much, much work, the domes are still cloudy. Share your tips?
 
  • Like
Reactions: kitn1mcc
Jun 18, 2013
3,725
PA
Cool beacon & great job on the dome! I would love to know your process…I have a pair of clear SignalStat DualComm domes that were so clouded, I couldn’t see that one of the rotators was missing! Bar is now complete, but after much, much work, the domes are still cloudy. Share your tips?
I'll try and keep this answer compact, feel free to PM me for specifics.
1st realize you can't save every dome, and balance that with how much effort you want to put in vs the expected results. Simply put you can spend days working on a dome, get it to a certain point.. and then no matter how much time you spend any additional improvement is slow in coming vs effort expended.

Sum up the item in question, how bad is it?
I typically start by washing the dome with dish soap and water... then while still wet I will follow up with Magic Eraser, only do this to the outside of the dome. Magic Eraser does great things removing paint and other gunk like oil residue tar and sap. Not to mention dried up rubber gasket residue!

wet sanding 101.. determine how low of a starting grit you want to go with.. I rarely start with less then 1000, and even then 800 is the minimum. Also remember that for every level down you start, you will need to re-sand at a higher grit, So start @1000, then 1200, 1500, 2000, 2500.. etc. Where you start and stop depends on your desired endgame.. again balance effort vs payoff.
Fill your sink or basin with water and dish soap, let the sanding media absorb water and start to curl. Then a whole lot of elbow grease, Between stages empty the sink and rinse and wash the dome, look for areas that need more attention while the dome is dry. Fill back up and start with the next grit.. rinse and repeat.

This last section is what works for you, Auto Rubbing Compound, or Novus, or PlastX.. pick your poison. Apply to the dome either with an applicator or a power ball attachment, then let dry. Wipe with clean terry cloth or Auto Detailing towel, visually inspect. I have good luck with Auto Rubbing compound, then Novus.. it really digs into the oxidization and clears it up. Don't be afraid to mix it up abit to determine what works best for you, just remember to use clean applicator pads and attachments for each product.

Last part.. Apply a sealing wax.. Pick your poison again, I have had good luck with even the most basic Wally Mart carnuba wax. Then buff it out like you did with the previous step, this will make the domes really shine, and offer some UV and protection to your finish.


Ok so maybe not so short, Patience and effort will pay off in the end.

Rob
 

toon80

Member
May 24, 2010
2,489
Laval, Canada
Pretty much exactly what Stampeed Valkyrie said here. Very good summary.
My method is about the same. Been mostly doing aerodynic domes. Lots of hours, but worth it.
 

StEaLtH2

Member
Mar 3, 2011
2,159
New England
Nice looking beacon.
I remember when Providence RI PD used these. Center of roof in R/C/B/C on brown sedans. Glad one has survived and now thrived in your hands.
Wonder how many John has in the Whelen Refuge. lol
 
  • Like
Reactions: kitn1mcc

ur20v

Member
Feb 3, 2017
571
Northern Virginia
Brautiful! I just got my 991 today... Yes, I said 991. I know thats not a thing, but the original 994/993/992 guts, whatever they were, have been replaced by a single 55 watt rotator from a much smaller dash light or beacon. I really hope to find 994 internals to restore it with.

20220426_181737.jpg
 
Jun 18, 2013
3,725
PA
Brautiful! I just got my 991 today... Yes, I said 991. I know thats not a thing, but the original 994/993/992 guts, whatever they were, have been replaced by a single 55 watt rotator from a much smaller dash light or beacon. I really hope to find 994 internals to restore it with.

View attachment 236448

Good luck! One of my biggest gripes about Vintage Whelen is parts don't exist! I'll keep my eyes open for you.
 
  • Like
Reactions: stansdds and ur20v

Forum Statistics

Threads
54,179
Messages
450,543
Members
19,188
Latest member
htamboli

About Us

  • Since 1997, eLightbars has been the premier venue for all things emergency warning equipment. Discussions, classified listings, pictures, videos, chat, & more! Our staff members strive to keep the forums organized and clutter-free. All of our offerings are free-of-charge with all costs offset by banner advertising. Premium offerings are available to improve your experience.

User Menu

Secure Browsing & Transactions

eLightbars.org uses SSL to secure all traffic between our server and your browsing device. All browsing and transactions within are secured by an SSL Certificate with high-strength encryption.